Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

didn't think of that a good idea along with rebuilding the fuel pump i know mine was shot i also had bad gas lines not leaking but letting air in the line making it bleed off from the carb if it sat more for then a day.

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

I didn't get home early enough to mess with it last night, but the vacuum lines are on top of the list of to do's! LOL

I picked up the timing light last night, so hopefully I'll get some time to get to it soon. The plug wires are all up off of everything. I did check that already, but good call!!

It does have a full tank of fresh gas, and the only filter (currently) is the one in the carb. We cleaned it out when rebuilding the carb.

Thank you for the input Quest!



I saw a Skip White HEI for it for $62.00 + $10.00 shipping. I do not know anything about Skip White, are they any good? Yep, that is my '60 sitting in there.


Thanks Kro, I hadn't thought of the gas lines. Thank you for sending me that manual too!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

I forgot to tell you all that he found an original key wired to the bottom of the steering column. Works in the door lock, and the ignition! Pretty cool find!

Attachment 1070985


Also, when I picked up the timing light from my boss, he said I could use this as well. I have absolutely no idea where and how to hook this thing up, and or use it. Any suggestions? Anyone have a manual sitting around that they could scan? LOL I didn't look much last night, but will see what I can find as far as a manual for it goes.

Attachment 1070986

Attachment 1070987

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

its a dwell tach to check dwell on points--gap when runnining--- hook red to posative side of coil and black to negetive. turn to dwell on meter and it will tell you what the dwell is. i don't remember what it should be

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

Thanks Gimmy. What is the little tab/bar piece for?

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

" What is the little tab/bar piece for?"

Cigar Holder ;)

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

LOL

Must be for little ones!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

I don't remember for sure, but I want to say 32-34 degrees. A good service manual will tell you.



It looks like you can also check voltage with that unit.

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

So educate me. If the dwell isn't what it's supposed to be than you would adjust point gap????? Trying to learn something here LOL

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

Welcome to the forum. Nice find, for sure. Gotta appreciate power steering--already--plus that original, full-gauge dash.
Enjoy the future work involved, and continue making Dad happy at the same time. He won't even mind if you stay up too late as long as you're 'on that truck'!
Looking forward to your future improvements and for PICTURES as y'all progress.
Sam

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

Sears and later on Penske(same unit, diff retailer)used to sell similar units. Is a volt, ohm, ammeter, dwell meter, tachometer--all-in-one "diagnostic machine".

The small, square tab questioned is for measuring amps--it allows the majority, by far, of the being-tested amp-flow to go thru it; else you'd blow the machine in a nanosecond! Understand the machine, fully, BEFORE you EVER attempt to measure ANY amps. Let that be the LAST msmt. you attempt; you'll prolly find it's a msmt. that is seldom needed anyway.

And yes, to another poster, degrees dwell correspond (indirectly, as when you increase one it decreases the other) to inches of point gap.

Learn to use that machine's capabilities, and you'll have mastered quite a useful range of engine tuning, and also understand functions of many engine-running components. Investing in a Sears unit--only dependable place we knew to reach out to from our very rural Carolina's upbringing--was and still is probably the best $64 I ever spent in the automotive field! IIRC, I earned my investment back the 1st weekend I had it. [Everybody, myself included, accuse such claims of getting over-rated as time passes!:lol:]

Stealing from present tv-ads, one could say "stay interested, my friend".

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

I have an option to pick up a rebuilt 292 from a member on here, but am trying to find everything I need to put it in this truck. I know I need the different tower for the motor mount, but is the part that actually mounts to the block the same from the 230, or do I need that too? I will probably put new rubber in between, depending on what it looks like when we pull it out.

Thanks luvbowties!

Thanks!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

You set points with feeler gauge, check dwell with meter dial the dwell in, if you can't point rubbing block is to far gone to achieve dwell, replace points, as capt fab said 32/34,.....note dwell effects timing, you may have to reset timing, timing does not effect dwell...
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Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

Thanks Rich 5150 69!

I ordered a Skip White HEI, that just got here, so if we get the 292 (looking like we will go that way) it'll go in that, if not, then it will go in the 230 for now.

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

very nice that 292 will be screamin! i believe the mounts are the same other then there staggered instead of straight across. im still happly pleased with my truck when i mass the pedal dose pretty dam good for a motor dam near half the size of a small block v8!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

Found this pretty cool i talked to a older guy once at a car show about doing this. I believe you even block off inside so there's actually 2 separate sides but look like one on the out side. Thought you guys might be getting a extra exhaust to play with cast is a bit of a trick to weld but if you have a bbq you can actually get a solid weld to it with a bit of heating and slow cooling.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...psca4d1c7d.jpg


No coolant heating crap with something like this ether!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

That's what I have on my car it's split and blocked off where it's split so you have 2 piece exhuast,mine is going into a dual inlet flowmaster and dual outlet,of course this is on my 48 with 216 engine.here's a vid with it running.http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...ps17453693.jpgCLICK ON THE PIXS AND IT WILL TAKE YOU TO MY ALBUM.

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

I had never even heard of doing that Kro!

That sounds great Randy!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

very nice randy did you do it your self? just wondering how well it all goes together im pretty confident welding with cast i've done it more then once i will just be using the only manifold i got lol!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

I had a gentlemen do it for me.Alot of people just add another downtube,but the correct way is to actually cut the manifold,I think it's 4 and 2,the front 4 cylinders are up front and the rear 2 cylinders are on the rear.cut a small section out and block off so that there 2 separate exhaust manifold pieces from the same one you just have to watch what angle it needs to be before welding so that linkages will clear.it gives it a distinctive sounds that's for sure...If you like I will try to get a pix of the cut....Thanks Randy...

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

Randy, I would definitely like to see the cut, and any additional pictures of the setup you can provide!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

yeah i would love to see it as well i would think the cut is the danger part of jacking it up i would think blocking it off without cutting would be better if possible witch i guess it may not be.

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

These were called "split manifolds" in yrs. past. One caveat: from the back, weld a plate over the inside passage to the rear THREE--exhausting NOT 2 and 4, but 3 and 3! It will not run right with merely an additional ex. pipe/opening. (And only on the "straight 8"/inline-8 cylinders did you have to run unbalanced # of cyls.; due to manifold design, you could not 'reach' inside to get 4 and 4, yet it had its distinctive sound also.)

On stock manifolds, we did not have to actually cut the manifolds in two--altho' it would make for a more 'tuned'/symmetrical system at the expense of considerably more labor. Also, if you cut them in 2, you'd need to run some type of heat source to 'burning chamber'--where the ex. manifold bolted to intake manifold. Easiest, by far, to merely block inside and weld 2nd pipe to new opening. Really makes for a sweet sound in addition to giving a power increase you can feel in the seat of your pants!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

Thanks luvbowties what i was thinking also with the amount of work and losing your exhaust heat to the intake this will be happening soon on my 230!

Re: 1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty
 

here's some pixs hope it clarifies things up,http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7120e46d.jpghttp://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...ps718372b6.jpghere you can see the cut and blocked off..http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1b8796c.jpghttp://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...psd65c2b91.jpgas you can see it still has heat going to intake,Iv'e not had any problems with it.