Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

are you going to sand blast the frame

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

Yea I found the serial number on the left side of the frame as well as having a serial number on the right side frame?

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

no it's not in that bad of shape, just gonna clean it up, and maybe put some por 15 on it

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

por 15 good stuff for your neck of the woods

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yeah, if I was in a "rust belt" area, I would have to do alot more preventive mantinence!

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

well, got the engine out and ready for a test fit, it is a 396 (66) that we picked up in a diesel 84 blazer.
It had a wierd knocking noise when we bought it, and we suspected that it was a broken flywheel since we have experience in that area:lol:, and after listening all over the engine we were pretty sure it wasn't internal.. check out the crack in the second photo! this is our 3rd with pretty much the exact same crack...

engine codes were this: back of the block: 3855961, with a sideways "P" under the 55, also behind the flywheel on the back of the block it says HI PERFORMANCE/TRUCK/CAR (maybe PASS-I forget now)
the block code on the front is: T III3IVR the vin is 6L138792

as far as I can figure it is a 66 396 325 hp with a rochester/auto, although it does have a pilot bushing in the crank-who knows what it was in before the blazer though...

any help on the decoding would be great.

my plan is to bolt the engine/trans-transfercase combo together, and set it in the frame, that should show me where the trans. crossmember needs to be bolted in, and then after that I will use the swb 73-87 4X4 driveshaft I have to determine where to bolt the rear springs to the frame.

*** with the 4 inch lift how much of the driveshaft yoke should I have showing out of the rear of the transfer case??-

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

Wow, it wouldn't have been long before the center of that flexplate just let loose of the rest.

Pretty much every passenger/light truck big block I have seen has the Hi-Perf/Pass cast into the block. It doesn't mean it is anything special.

I haven't found an IVR code yet. I did find the IV code which says '66-'68 325 HP 396 with auto trans, just like you said.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

I read on a chevelle website that the R, or an H would sometimes be stamped if it was going to have either a rochester, or a holley carb.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

pics maybe tomorrow, got the engine in, motor mounts sectioned, trans crossmember located and in, mocked the old cowl up to see about fitment issues with the bbc.

so this came up: I located the front axle centered in the wheelwells. I located the motor mounts exactly where my 63 4X4 sbc is.
there is a 4 inch lift.
the front driveshaft comes up short by about 3-4 inches....
this is the same shaft that was in the truck that had the 4 inch lift.

so were the motor to axle locations different 60-66, as compared to 73-87?
since everything seems to be in the right spot I guess I will have to have a longer driveshaft made...

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

engine fit shots

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

looks good
ron

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

If you aren't past the point of no return, you could change to a short water pump, and slide the engine, trans and TC forward a little. That's what I did on my Suburban. I used the short water pump, and moved the engine forward 2".

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

I had thought about that, especially since there seems to be enough room betwen the rad and fan. , it was re-measuring and re-drilling 16 holes that slowed me down:lol:,
since I am doing a bunch of body work to the cowl and floor anyway, I decided to just relieve the firewall, like rocktonka did on thier sub.

here is a pic of what they did:

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

What length front & rear springs did you use also could you share some pics of the rear spring hangers.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

My BBC book says that the casting # 3855961 was for 1966. Is a 396 and could have been either 325 or 360HP. According to chevy blueprints, it shows it to be a 2bolt block and is identical to casting #3855977 (366 truck) except for the passenger car deck heights, cylinder wall revisions and minor casting and machining. Does not have dowel pins for locating timing chain cover. Casting date on the right lower side near the freeze plug in front of the starter. Has the tall tower distributor casting boss. The code TIII3IVR is for the T=Tonawanda plant, III3=Nov 13 and the IVR is for the 396 w/TH400 pass car engine w/Rochester. Chevy often used the letter I in place of the #1. Serial # shows 6L138792 which is 6= 1966 L=Van Nuys, CA assembly plant and 138792 is the VIN

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

I haven't mounted the back rear hangers yet, but did get the front mounted, and have a pic of that for the next post, I will have to measure the lengths for you, the rear are stock 88 3/4 ton 4X4 'burb, and the front are a 4 inch lift spring that (aftermarket) that I got off of the front of an 87 1/2 ton 4X4.

thanks for this, that tIII3 was confusing me, I am thinking that the serial # will turn out to be an impala... if it turns out to be a chevelle the motor will probably be worth more than the whole project!:lol:

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

got the rear springs mounted (started -lots more holes to drill-) wheelbase is going to be 117.5 which should work out because I plan on using the longer long fleet rear wheelwells.
the slip yoke has 1.5 inches showing, and 4.5 inserted, which I hope is not too much???

pic # 3 shows the rear shock, how do I figure out where the shock should be mounted?
these are the longer shocks that came with the 4 inch lifted truck, right now they are extended all the way, and the frame has no weight on it, I will be able to set them at a 25 degree angle, they were 30 degrees on the 88 sub...
do I just place them and punch a hole where they fit, or do I need to collapse them a bit , and then punch the mount hole?

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

No problem. Im pretty versed on the BBC and straight 6 (230, 250,292). Sounds funny, but I have never owned a SB. Always been big blocks or straight 6. Although did have a 48 roadmaster w/straight 8 when I was a kid. The nice thing about that casting #, is that it is one of the few 396 blocks that can be bored to a 427. So it is a desireable block either way. As far as I know, there is no way to tell by block alone if its corvette/impala/chevelle. If you know the heads are original(casting #'s), that may lend some help. Im no help on the suspension stuff though...sorry, but looking could.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

On the shocks, you will want to mount them so that you have more compression than extension. It is a little bit of a guessing game when you don't have the total weight on the suspension. I would shoot for maybe 70/30 at ride height.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

thanks!, I can probably wait until the body is back on before I mount the rear shocks.

so did I read this right? compress the shock so that only30% of the arm showing, then locate the hole?
..or did I get it backwards?

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

Depending on application, I try and locate shocks with maximum extension.

For example, I measure axle travel to contact with bumpstop, and add 1" or so for bumpstop compression...then set top bolt hole location for shock at compressed point.

This gives maximum axle droop or "flex" for wheel'n.

The closer the shocks are to vertical, the better they will work.

You can run a longer, tighter shock mounted at an angle, so they will fit in the chassis, and still allow for maximum travel.

Brake, vent hoseing, E-cable and driveline pullout are obvious issues to be checked as you know.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

I like it. will watch this one.

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Well that depends on how you are planning on using the Burb. I just assumed mostly driving on roads. The Chief is talking about offroad shock setup.

What I was saying, assuming on road use, is to compress the shock aprox 30%, and locate your hole. Or you might go to 40%-50% if you mount them after the body is on.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

that sounds perfect, yes this will mainly be for winter transportation.

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got some stuff done last week:
brake hose holders
capt. fab steering spacer
sway bar Xmember- I had to pull the 60-66 rad support to get it to fit, however I am thinking of using a 60-62 radiator, so I might not need it.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

I added this brace that supports the spring hangers, it took up 1 whole box of bolts by itself!:lol: I had to cut the inner support , and break out the arc welder and change the angle that it hits the frame -64 is tapered, 88 is parallel-
got the spring hangers bolted on, had to trim them down a bit and put in some new holes to fit them on the shorter 64 frame.
found a good place to mount the shock inside the pass. frame rail, on the old spring perch. the driver side one mounts outside the frame.

three 25 count boxes of bolts, so that means close to 75 rivets taken out and 150 holes drilled!!!, I guess thats not counting the rivets on stuff that just had to come off the 64 frame... add another 20-25!!

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

Would "Holey Moley" be fitting?:lol:

You know what your doin' and it looks good.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

did you go 3/8 or 7/16 on the bolts. i found that all of the holes were to sloppy for 3/8 so i drilled them all for 7/16 bolts
the body mount brkts are a little different over the spring perch on a 4 x 4 and the emerg brake mounts up behind the t/c crossmember. just for info only.
those were all my old diesel fuel lines that were hanging with return line
http://imageshack.us/a/img202/5008/dscn2452mw.jpg
ron

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

interesting , the difference in brackets, that one looks to be up a little higher than my 2wd as well...
I went with 7/16 grade 8 bolts, I had to run the 7/16 drill bit through all the holes, to shave off the tiniest bit of metal to make them all fit...
was that a factory 3/4 ton 4X4 'burb?

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

Nice work Jon :thumbs:

It looks like the sway bar crossmember fit without any modifications?

Yeah, it looks like you are getting to know your drill really well :lol:

You're probably on a first name basis with where you're buying your hardware too :)

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

yes the sway bar crossmember fit without any mods.
the hardest part is trying to find the holes...lots of measuring.
there is one steering box bolt that won't come out with the crossmember in... so if I ever need to change the box, the whole thing will have to be moved.

The key with the drill is lots of oil, and pilot holes, I am amazed , but I am still using the same 7/16 bit I started with!

....and I pretty much ran the local ACE out of 7/16 bolts, nuts and washers!:lol:
actually waiting for them to get a new shipment...I need at least 1 more box.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

got the gas tank mounted up today.
I used the one out of the 85 blazer- the tank in the blazer was about 10 inches shorter than the 2 suburban tanks I had to choose from. I think I could have been able to get them to fit, but the filler ended up in a bad spot (interfered with the body support)

I moved the rear frame brace toward the bumper about a foot, and then turned the blazer tank around 180 so that the filler is now on the left. You can see the scored line on the frame where the stock 64 filler came across the frame, so there shouldn't be too much work to connect to the stock filler tube.

I fabbed up a support with some angle iron and used that across the top to trap the tank in the frame- the 85 uses the cross braces.

also mounted the rear brake bracket in the best spot I could find.

in the last shot you can see the profile of the tank, the spring kind of covers up where the tank tapers up a little towards the front (which used to be the rear of the tank.)

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

I was able to salvage the exhaust system out of the blazer as well, I used all the brackets (more drilling:() and had a couple pieces fabbed up at the exhaust shop to extend it 11 inches, had to cut a couple windows in the old trailing arm support for the pipes to run through.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

Looking good! Dont know how I missed this build.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

some of my pics of the gas tank install should show some pics of the rear hangers...

out of the 4 trucks I could have used hangers off of for the rear spring , the rear hangers were all the same, but the front hangers (for the rear spring) were all different- 2wd 1/2 sub, 4wd 3/4 sub,4wd 1/2 blazer, and 4wd 1/2 sb truck.

the rear springs and hangers I used were the 3/4 ton 4X4 sub, and they measure 55.5 inches center to center.

the front springs were off the 1/2 ton sb truck, and are 4 inch lift springs, they measure 46.5 inches center to center.

hope this helps, sorry it took so long to respond.

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

thanks

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starting on body work... first is to patch the patch....
the lh center brace was cut up when the wrecking yard sold the 1/4's off the sub years ago, so I fabbed up some patches, then the only rust in this piece, was the driver foot well.
sure is easy to do the repair when it is up on its side!

Re: SiX-fo SuBuRbAn
 

are you using a rotisserie

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no, the front 1/2 is cut off right now, so I pushed it up on its side..

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Any more progress?