Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
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Continuing on the updates ...
So I started to finalize my drivetrain setup as mentioned when I got the setup bars installed. Found yet another rabbet hole. My motor/trans down angle was sitting about 4.1 degrees down. Yikes. That's a tad on the high side. So I set off evaluating options. I've got that stroked LS, so Rob had sent me some bits to make new perches (the part that the motor mount bolts to and then bolts to the truss on the chassis) that pushed the motor up 1/2" from the ones that shipped with the chassis. So since those were just bits, I took to modifying them. The goal was to get the down angle to 3.5 degrees with no transmission tail shaft spacers. So the engine/trans came out. I hacked the plates up that make up the perch and started "moving" the hole for the motor mount tube down. This was an iterative process. Die grind a little, bolt the plates in, set the motor/trans in, check clearances, check angle, repeat. After several iterations, I wound up dropping the engine down a tad more than 1/4", basically putting my oil pan resting on the cross brace part of the cross member. So me and the angle grinder went to work and put a shallow U to provide just enough clearance on the oil pan. Success! I got the motor/trans down to 3.5 degrees. With a 1/4" trans tail shaft spacer I get can get down to around 3.0-3.1 degrees, but then I may be into the back of the cab with the driveshaft which would require me to notch the back of the cab (this is at full bump only). Oh, and on the driveshaft, I'm using Mark Williams Enterprises here in Colorado. Those guys are awesome. If you ever need a custom driveshaft check them out (they have more than just driveshafts). I'm getting a 3.5" 6061 aluminum driveshaft with 1350 U-joints. That will handle the 600 HP with no problems. It does impose a ~150 mph speed limit on the truck with the 3.70:1 rear gears, but with no roll bar/cage, I'm perfectly ok with that as the top speed. For those curious on why the driveshaft is the limiting factor, it has everything to do with the critical speed of the driveshaft. The critical speed is the speed at which the driveshaft becomes unstable, and you don't want that. Trust me. It's a matter of seconds before carnage starts to happen. So here's a few shots of the stuff. The first are the finished perches (sorry, in this case I forgot to take pictures of the mods). The original No Limit ones on the left, my hacked up modified ones on the right. I got really lucky and found an epoxy spray paint that very closely matches the powder coat. The left ones are powder coated, the right ones are spray paint. I also tossed in a couple shots of the finalized engine mounting and a comparison of the 1350 U-joint/yoke to the factory one. |
Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
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The new driveshaft was finished up yesterday, so I went and picked it up this afternoon. Boy does it look good and stout. Mark Williams Enterprises does a good job, this thing fit perfect! And they tested the driveshaft to 3000 ft-lb before handing it off to me. And just look at another view of the 1350 u-joints vs OEM. I also picked up a pair of their billet straps vs a typical u-bolt to hold the rear u-joint in the pinion yoke. Those billet straps help keep the bearing cup square under heavy/dynamic loads to help minimize wear on the bearings in the u-joint.
It's a good feeling to almost have the driveline wrapped up. |
Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
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Got the bulk of the chassis setup complete. The rear end is all buttoned up. Got the 4-link adjusted and set pinion angle to ~2.1 degrees up. I've got the engine set at 3.5 degrees down to give me the minimal interference with the cab at full bump. Unfortunately, that means I need to notch the back of the cab and the rear cross member between the cab mounts. But, the driveline is essentially done. Aside from exhaust and plumbing (brakes/fuel), the chassis is ready to drive. Of course, there is still a good chunk of work left to do before the truck is truly drivable.
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Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
The chassis is looking very nice. A real work of art.
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This is going to be one sweet ride, really nice work :chevy:
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Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
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I have a front and rear suspension from No-Limit as well . . . I found the VHT Roll Bar & Chassis Satin Black paint is a really good match for the black powder coat Rob uses. I had to touch up a few parts and also used the VHT to paint my frame rails. You can pick up the VHT paint at Autozone, Advance, Oreilly's, etc. Nice build by the way.
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Thanks! and Haha! Our minds think alike. That is almost exact same stuff I used, except I used the epoxy version! On areas I've touched up on the chassis you can't really tell unless you know it's there. |
Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
Nice build. Which black widow model muffler did you go with? I've been thinking about putting one on my truck once it's time.
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I think I'm going to run the 250 Venom as well, just not the pro version.
Looking forward to see how you like it once your driving the truck. Thanks, Nick |
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Dig this truck!
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What are those magnet things that you have been using on the sheet metal work?
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Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
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Hey guys, it's been a little while since I've been on the forums. I've been off working a bunch of little stuff along with continuing with cab metal fab work. I've also been trading a set of headers back and forth with a company that should work out well once all the kinks are worked out. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Then on Monday, I was out messing around on the mountain bike and well, crashed. I landed hard on my right side and hosed up my rib cage. So I've been down and out all week and probably for a few weeks to come. So here's some shots to get you caught up. I continued filling holes in the firewall, including finally making a patch panel to fill the old fan hole. |
Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
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And here's a back to back of the clutch rod area. I cut that bump out and changed the contour of the setback to resemble the passenger side in order to gain clearance to my set back LS.
I'm down to a short list on fab work for the cab now: -Cleanup throttle cable pass-thru area -Notch the back of the cab/rear cab cross member for driveshaft clearance -Patch up the trans tunnel hole I had cut and improperly patched some 18 years ago. I've already cleaned up the hole. Just need to make patches and weld them in. -Cleanup the passenger compartment side of all these firewall mods. Here is the before (which is after I had filled the clutch rod hole): Attachment 1644370 Here is the after: Attachment 1644371 |
Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
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Ok question for you guys ...
The fresh air vent cavities, there is no easy way to get into these areas on an assembled cab. I've noticed that over the years, these cavities collected a bunch of crap (like leaves and sticks and other stuff that falls into the cowl area) that got trapped because it was too big to exit through the water drainage holes. Plus, on the passenger side the water drain channel to prevent water from entering the OEM fan makes it impossible to get a hand down in there, and reaching around through the inside vent hole is near impossible. So I really want to get in there and cleanup the rust and paint some POR-15 or something in there. Has anyone done anything like this on an already painted cab? Here's my thought: cut out an access panel large enough to fit my hand and be able to get a wire brush/paint brush in there. The instead of welding the access panel back in, use dzus fasteners and a custom backer plate to create a removable access panel. What do you guys think? I'd cut out an area shown by the red box: Attachment 1644377 |
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Here's a youtube link to TheFabForums.com giving an overview: He's got a link to the ones he demos in the video description. |
Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
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FINALLY!!! The header fiasco is over!
Even with a cracked rib, when these showed back up today after some rework, I went to work. Starting to look like an engine! The details ... So way back in January I contacted a company who specializes in aftermarket headers on custom jobs. Their slogan is big tubes in tight places. Exactly what I needed. A 1 7/8" primary long tube header. The company: Ultimate Headers. And these things fit very well - as they should. They worked with Rob from No Limit to tweak and dial in the fit. They are well built too, using 321 stainless, cast flanges and turn down tubes and merge collectors. They also have this improved ball and socket design. So hats off to Ultimate Headers. There were some growing pains but in the end they made things right. Passenger Side Attachment 1646296 Driver Side Attachment 1646297 Close up of steering shaft area. I've got the steering shaft mocked up with a jig I made the last time the cab was on. Attachment 1646298 Top view showing the collector placement Attachment 1646299 Merge collectors baby! Attachment 1646300 |
Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
Hey Chris
Your build is coming along nicely. Like the new headers. What horsepower are you running and what size fuel line? Are you running a fuel filter somewhere? Is it possible to see a picture of the fuel line termination in the rear and maybe your fuel filter setup? |
Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
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On HP, the config of the engine I'm running (418 cu in) dynos at 621 HP at sea level. I'm up at 5400 ft so I expect it to be around 520 or so using simple formulas that don't account for the engine setup in any way. I am planning to run a fuel filter. I'll actually have 2 in the system, a 100 micron pre-filter on the pump in the tank and a 10 micron post filter somewhere. I still need to decide on the mounting. The filter is rather large because it is rated for plenty of flow. I am running 3/8" hard line and -6 flex line. The 3/8" lines are plenty for a high pressure EFI application and could easily support over 1000 HP. It's the pump that makes the big difference and the fact it's a 58 psi system vs a 7-13 psi system. My estimated psi loss is right around a touch more than 1 psi so not much on 58 psi but huge on a carb'd setup running say 8 psi. Hence why it's best to run the regulator as close to the fuel delivery system as possible, since the pump will "compensate" for the pressure loss. If the regulator is right at the tank and fixed at say 58 psi, then the injectors could very well only see 56-57 psi. Depends on the injector whether that matters or not. Most likely not for a street car. Race car different story. Here's a shot of the rear line setup a took awhile back when I had the tank still in the chassis and went ahead and made those lines. I have yet to mount the filter. Where I want to mount the filter requires $300 in tools since I don't have a 37 deg flare setup and I've only found one that looks worth while (The Eastwood bench mount turret style one). But I do have a shot of the filter and regulator in a previous post (ignore the Option 1 as I'm just linking straight to that photo from that post). http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1481482891 Here's where I want to put the filter. Basically redo the junction there and insert the filter. But I don't want a bunch of flex line down there so I was going to just bend the hard line and put some fittings on to go direct to the filter. I currently have AN fittings, but I need to see if there are some other options since the filter just has a -8 o-ring thread on the ends. Attachment 1646526 And here is the shot of the rear fuel line termination. Rob did his slightly different on 'Goldie' which he's building right now for himself, but otherwise the same. Attachment 1646525 |
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Headers look very nice.
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Thanks for the great explanation. I am in the middle of doing the fuel filter as well. A lot of choices and tube end options. Not sure about running either annealed stainless, aluminum lines or maybe what you ran. I see that you used the green copper variety of line (dont know the name of it). |
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And I had a little fun with the GoPro today and took some video footage of the headers a little closer up for a better look. |
Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
.......my vote, put the regulator and filters on the frame. Keep the firewall clean.
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Where would option two be for mounting the regulator?
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1481482891 |
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Mounting it to the back of the motor is a good idea. It's a nice piece.
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Hey Chris
How did you run your back brake line? Where did it start, and did you run the line to the rear end by a flex line and then out to the calipers or on the chassis rear cross member and then pierce the chassis with a bulkhead through the frame, and then flex lines to the caliper? Any pics would be great. |
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Those headers are a work of art...matching the looks of the engine overall. Well done! I liked your video too.
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Here's a shot of the brake line bulkhead up front. The green tape are the -3 AN fittings. The front one is the front and rear one the rear. Attachment 1647591 Here's a shot showing the rear. The green tape in front of the coilover is the -3 AN fitting for the flex line. Attachment 1647592 Quote:
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Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
Thanks Chris for the explanation. Rob does a great job. You can tell by your chassis. Everything has been well thought out. I have his front and rear suspension also. I like the idea of piercing through the chassis instead of having the lines attached to the axle.
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Re: C10CJ: A Pro-touring '71 Stepside on a No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
Fantastic looking setup. This will be a blast to drive.
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Ok, Trackman101 was the tipping vote on the regulator. Some 2" 3/16 bar stock, cutoff saw, grinder and welder and BAM! - the start of a bracket. Here it is in the ugly state. I still need to trim the corners and other shaping to make it look a little more respectable, but it serves the purpose. Excuse the temporary hardware. It's what I could find laying around.
Drilled a couple holes after cutting a section off of the bar stock. Attachment 1648007 Here it is after cutting and welding. Still need to trim the corners and make it a little nicer to look at. This thing may wind up serving double duty - if there is enough space on the backside that's where I plan to mount my fuel and oil pressure sensors. So this thing could kill two birds with one stone. Attachment 1648008 With the air cleaner on it's not even visible from this angle. Attachment 1648009 View from the driver side. Attachment 1648010 |
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Man! This thing is sweet!
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