Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
I ordered both through Amazon and they have a nice and easy return policy. This afternoon, on a whim, I also checked craigslist for a chevy 350 and voila... Someone is selling a 1996 GMC 1/2 ton 5.7L V8 engine with a 4L80E trans. 100K miles. Would that be something that would make sense in our Chevy 3100 trucks? I can't seem to find specs on horsepower or torque, but the 4L80E trans seems to be pretty beefy.
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Waiting for some engine parts to arrive, so I decided to tackle the S10 swap cab mounts. I downloaded a bunch of plans from different builds and ultimately ended up just measuring, cutting, and welding my own. Something to be said for just getting out with a tape measure and getting the job done.
Measurements on the front are 6" from the top of the frame to the plate on top of the mount. That gave me the clearance I needed to maximize bed depth. It does mean I'll have to put a pretty good drop kit on the wheels to bring the stance down to where I want it. Rear mounts are 4 1/4" from frame to top. The rears have a larger bushing to mount to and I'm modifying the rail on the rear of the cab to accommodate the bushing. All made from 4x4 11ga box steel, a jig saw, and a cutoff wheel :) I will say even after doing the muriatic acid method, ammonia, water, then weldable primer, I'm not getting very good penetration on the frame side of the welds. Makes me nervous since this isn't one of the areas I'd like a weld to fail me later. I might have a problem with my weldable primer. It doesn't seem to conduct very well. Hoping its not left over wax on the frame as has been pointed out on the S10 build sticky. Update: The frame is good, its the welder that won't work. I have a Lincoln 140 plugged into a 110v outlet. I had a problem with duty cycle and it doesn't get any penetration with 0.30 wire. Time to add a new welder to the budget. Tried just welding to clean pieces of 11ga and noticed it barely penetrates for adhesion. Update again: I used a different plug in the house and a thicker extension cable and bam, nice solid weld. Was pretty pumped to do my first nice looking weld instead of the junk I've been laying down to spot weld stuff. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4217/...bb8c0d049a.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4205/...67db5edf_z.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4265/...0e7f6830b9.jpg |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Looks good man. Keep it up.
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
yah just gotta dive in and not worry so much about the plans. I'd recommend no weld through primer on the frame. You'll be coating over it anyway. 6" off frame is tall. for bags you can make it work, but requires alot of fabbing to lay out. For static drop, 4" is a good total off frame measurement IMO. also I wouldn't worry too much about depth in bed. 8" is fine. You won't be hauling as much as you think. But I agree and strive for bed depth for the mere looks as much as practicality.
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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The beds look a bit goofy when the floor is only a couple inches from the top IMO. I think I just wanted enough bed to throw groceries and junk in since I'm actually going to use mine as a pickup truck :) |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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I would suggest not trying to weld through/over anything except clean metal! Primer and paint after you weld! I that I went 2.5" over my frame rails in the back & 2.25" in the front, but my '53 sits pretty low!
Here's a couple of images for reference for building your frame mounts: The first photo came from the work of GRIMSS and jeffs51chevy here on the board. The second one is what I made for my truck. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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Pretty close to perfect and the ride height for me is spot on, so thanks for the tip! With larger wheels and a 3" spindle I'm going to be right where I want to be pre-bagged. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/...0880d45ac6.jpg20170716_190937 Now I can start fabbing the core support while also working on getting this V8 engine running. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
You've got more hanging on yours than I do at this point!
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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the bottom of the center section of frame is level, you can measure up from the bottom, the top does sink in the footwell area for more room on the s10. they dont make a 3" spindle, but you can chop one full turn off your stock springs and use a 2" spindle and get your 3" drop. my advice is to wait to cut the springs till you have everything mounted (engine, front clip) because s10s sometimes have a "lean" to the drivers side and taking an extra bit off the passenger coil is a good way to combat it. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
thats nice when you have a pattern to go on. I was saying you can measure the height of your mounts from the bottom of the frame to the top of the mount, instead of from the top of the frame which as you say does get shorter towards the front mounts. the reason the rear cab mounts are made "higher" is because the cab floor is not perfectly flat, it is higher in the rear than the footwell. I noticed this same thing on the mounts I designed for my 41, the rear mounts are 3/4" higher, I used a straightedge and measured up to the floor
I havent ever put any rake on the cab in relation to the frame or running boards so you might be in territory I have no experience with. I always level the frame and then mount the cab level with respect to the frame, then the running boards level with respect to the cab and frame. in my opinion this makes mounting the bed easier because you dont need angled spacers, the rear section of the frame is level too. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
I get you now, yes indeed 2 degrees is a ton. I am already considering smaller rear tires on mine because the suspension rake is pretty substantial. I think the leafs will settle though.
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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I used the lower bolt hole and trimmed off the top of the mount (the upper bolt hole). You do have to "oblong" the chassis bolt holes for the lower mount bolt holes on the drivers side...you'll see...kind of weird how GM did it that way. The passage side will bolt right on though. As far as placement, the adapter plates are set right in the middle of the slotted bolt holes. The 2.8 mounts are considered an upgrade to the 4.3 mounts. You can use the 2.8 mounts or Corvette mounts, I think the Corvette mount adds around 10 HP, Anchor Brand P/N 2436 and 2713, respectively. I have some pics in my thread, post no. 24. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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Current problem to resolve is that my little 110v welder doesn't seem to be penetrating the frame mounts very well so I'm researching upgrade options to a 220v. I'm find a few places where I tried to go the cheap/short route and in the end, should have just gotten the right tool or part for the job. (Update: Ended up solving this problem with a thicker extension cable and I used a 20A circuit from the house instead of the 15A in the garage. The Lincoln 140 seems to be doing a nice job now) Oh and trying to get this thing to run. I switched it from TBI back to carbureted. Waiting on a starter to arrive since the one I was given with the engine was DOA. Gotta love craigslist "deals" https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4223/...7e659745f9.jpg |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Some setbacks on the project this week. Expensive lessons, unfortunately. I took the engine from the S10 only to realize its a 2.8 not a 4.3L V6. That means the transmission doesn't fit, most of the components on it are not usable. Its basically a piece of junk IMO. Do people even buy those things?
Onto the V8 craigslist "deal" it looks like I need to get all new accessories and brackets on the front. New torque converter, new transmission...yeah its really adding up quickly and the truck fund is currently empty. I now have to consider if I need to replace the rear end since the current one might not handle the horsepower of the v8 engine. I guess I'll start by cleaning up all this fluid I spilled trying to pull the engine out |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Man thats no fun. Good news is if you are not set on the serpentine accessory drive the 4.3 trucks had, the older small block vbelt style setup is plentiful and relatively inexpensive in the resto aftermarket or in many junkyards. The trans is the part that sucks. Depending on what you want/need the price can climb pretty quick. The rear in the truck will be just fine with a v8 in front of it as long as you are not launching it on slicks off a transbrake.
These projects are fun but when you hit snags like this it drives you crazy. Your progress has been awesome considering you say this is your first major endeavor. I'm enjoying following along. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Just run the rear end as is until you have the funds to replace it with what you want. As stated above, unless you are launching hard or having extreme traction, it will be fine. They 7.5" ring gear 10-bolt in my 425rwhp manual tranny Z28 was still going strong...albeit a bit noisy...when I replaced it with an 8.8 hybrid unit.
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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sheesh. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Wow what a crazy couple of days. Earlier today, I had all but given up on the truck and started thinking of how much I could sell off to make up some of my expenses. I know, dark days. My mind ached from researching transmission types, used vs refurb, craigslist specials, bellhousing types for various years, so much stuff I've basically figured out the most complicated part of any car is probably that little auto trans sitting under our cab. I had realized with the engine and trans situation I still had another few thousand to go before I'd even get a usable power plant. Pretty much blowing my budget out of a reasonable place to make any progress for the next 6 months.
And there, in my darkest moments, the truck gods shone down. I got a call from a local mechanic/trans place after trying to source one close enough for my to drive, therefore cutting down shipping costs. The guy had just pulled a 700r4 from a corvette that was getting an LS3 upgrade. He knew the owner, knew it shifted well, and was happy to offer it for a measly $250. 1 hour later... https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4431/...fb0e47d3_z.jpg thank you lord of steel and oil. Still a few outstanding questions though. I need a tailhousing for it and it looks like my S10 tail shaft is about 3/4" longer. I also need a torque converter but have no idea what a good one is for our trucks. Today was a good day :) |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Sometimes things just go ok like that. Glad it worked out.
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
nice score. you can tell its a vette trans by a big V cast in the bellhousing, it uses a different valve body.
the tailshaft is shorter, like you have found, because the vette doesnt need any slip for the driveshaft yoke to move in and out as the rear suspension moves up and down, because the C4 vette has an IRS with a solidly mounted pumpkin that doesnt move. the vette tailshaft wont have a place for a normal mounting pad on it, it has a mount on the side that goes to a beam that goes all the way back to the pumpkin. if it were me, I would use a vette tailshaft and just fab a lower mount to a poly bushing. I dont think using a truck tailshaft will allow the rear seal to, seal. if you know someone who can do welding on cast aluminum you could maybe shorten a truck tailshaft. never give up. thats puffin talk. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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so a yoke on the end of the tailshaft and then I can put any drive shaft onto that I suppose? Not sure if you meant I need the rear end and pumpkin for a vette aswell. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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most times people dont use vette transmissions because they need to fab the mounts. you were already fabbing a mount, so 6 of one half dozen of the other. your current driveshaft yoke should slide right in, you just need a vette tailhsaft and a mounting plan |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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quick search on ebay, 42$ free shipping. I'd hop on it. maybe make sure it would work, sure it would but I didn't read into it.
Nice info joedoh, never knew that about the vette. The trans should give your engine another couple hundred horse though:lol: |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/s0UAA...jSd/s-l500.jpg http://www.ebay.com/itm/162596173062 http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-khgr7s...0.1280.jpg?c=2 |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
A tiny bit of gas and a few wires hooked up to the ignition switch. Oh man it was nice to hear the roar for a few seconds. Now to finish up the engine build knowing its going to run fine with the conversion from TBI back to carbureted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDZxpoH_5DU Funny amateur story...I wired up the HEI in a circle starting from cylinder 1, 2, 3, 4, 5...etc. I didn't look up if there was a firing order. I just assumed, that's how engines work. Turns out, there was a specific order to plug in the sparkies...lol, I felt pretty stupid wondering why it was backfiring http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528005c6a2.gif |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Great progress and a lot of good info with great pictures.
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Very nice work. Lots of good info, I'll be starting one real soon.
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
I'm going to go a little bit different route. Instead of a 117.9" WB S10, I'm using a 108.3" WB S10 and bobbing the rear bed. Moving the rear axle CL fwd 5 to 8 inch's. Unless it's been tried and there's a reason for not doing it! I think shorting the rear bed will look cool and I've got a V8 converted SWB S10 already!!! LS 5.3 for the power plant with a TH350(for now, it's what I have in the S10), 8.8 rear end and bagged! I'm bring the S10 home this weekend from a buddies house and I'll start getting it ready. I'll start posting picks as soon as I can! Can't wait! Chris
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
there is actually a super easy way to cut the last 11 inches off the rear of an S10 shortbed frame, flip those pieces over, then move the perches back 8 inches and you end up with a 116 wheelbase which is what the AD trucks are. gives a free 1" drop too.
the pics have been lost to the photobucket debacle, but its as easily done as it sounds. props to 62chevyII for showing us. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
Late to this thread but I am in for the ride. Really cool to you doing and dealing with the unknown knowns. Cool. I also added this one to the low buck build threads http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=581873
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Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
New welder showing up in the workshop this week. I finally bit the bullet and got a Hobart 190. Just need to figure out how use the dryer outlet. Dryer is about 40ft away, so I also need an extension cord. I've heard 50ft is a lot for the 220v/30A needs.
In other news, I got the engine cleaned up and ready to install. Transmission is mated up with a GM22TOW torque converter and the 700r4 corvette transmission. Everything seems to have lined up. Great video on how to properly measure the torque converter on install is here: Prestige Motorsports: PROPER TRANSMISSION/TORQUE CONVERTER INSTALLATION Now looking at mounting the transmission. Any thoughts on doing this style with the trans hanging down from the support as opposed to sitting on top of the support cross member? I like the idea for replacing and working on the transmission. I wouldn't have to remove the cross member. It may need an additional C bracket on one side just to slip the trans into. I'm a bit worried on how much pressure those two bolts would be under... http://1929fordhotrod.com/johnsblog/...sion-mounting/ http://1929fordhotrod.com/johnsblog/...-mounted-1.jpg |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
I can see the garage floor again! Clean up weekend and I slid the engine back into the frame. Still working on where things will ultimately sit. Need to do the trans cross member. For now, my big question for the group is where is my engine mount supposed to, around about, end up? Is it behind the stock S10 mount point or in front? I have two different kinds of transdapt mount adapters to try. I just don't know what its supposed to look like
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4410/...bc3d66b1_z.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4389/...0f0b619c_z.jpg I think it's supposed to look like this... http://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/2...-TPI-motor.jpg |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
I cleaned the garage this weekend too! it was so nice the first half of the day I just kept working outside.
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no. it only looks like that installed in an s10. in an AD you need to move the motor BACK. some people just use the V8 mount with no adapter. that moves the engine back about 4 inches. the V6 mounts on the 2.8 and 4.3 are in the middle of the block to allow for exhaust manifold clearance. but if you put a V8 in an s10, the motor mount is about 4 inches further forward on the V8, so transdapt makes those adapters to hold the v8 in the same place (with respect to the firewall) as the V6 was. you want to move the engine back. so some people have flipped the mounts so that it moves the V8 even firther back, and used the adjustment of the slotted bolts to end up with a 7-8" rear move (4 inches from installing the V8, 3-4 inches from the flipped mounts). this is all about clearance to the radiator, I moved my 4.3 8 inches back last time and just cleared the radiator with the mechanical fan. |
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4389/...0f0b619c_z.jpg
a good reference is this picture, your lower crank pulley needs to be just in front of the front crossmember (about even with that skid plate tongue sticking out) if you have any hope to get a radiator in the AD. |
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