Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Chevyrestroguy, Any updates on your truck!
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
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I'm mocking my parts up to do this mod but it looks like my lca only has .5" before it will hit the saddle during travel. Tons of space everywhere else, just the part of the lca that kicks out will be hitting. Has anyone run into this? The suspension is stock '72 so far.
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
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Another angle. This is slightly past stock bumpstop travel.
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Ok I just went and tried to drill my cross-shaft... what kind of drill bit are you guys using? I didn't even make a dent. I have new TRW cross shafts and they seem to be made of a metallic form of diamond.
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
When I had mine done, I took them to a friend's machine shop and we chucked them up in a lathe and used a flat bottom carbide end mill. A local machine shop would not charge you much to do this. A standard hardware store drill bit set isn't hard enough to drill the hardened cross shaft. Plus, using a mill is much more precise because you can lock the shaft in the mill and get the new pin locations located exactly.
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
So you trimmed the arm and not the cross member?
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I installed my modified arms & was able to achieve 100% suspension compression w/o contact but ultimately switched to Porterbuilt tubular arms for other reasons. |
Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
FYI, before you drill your new lower control arm shafts, verify that they match the stock hole position. Some aftermarket shafts come with the hole already moved a bit.
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
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That sucks that I can't drill the hole myself, I bought a set of reduced shank bits just for this purpose! What if I just angle grind a notch across the shaft? If I go the right depth it would still prevent the shaft from rotating. |
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
If the locating nub is sitting flat on a flat surface of the shaft, the shaft won't spin without the u-bolts loosening significantly or the shaft rounding out. I can't see either of those happening without some other problems going on, and in those cases a rotating shaft would be the least of my worries!
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I'll stick w/doing it the way the engineers designed it. Seems safer to me. |
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Thanks. I'd be interested to know how many degrees that adds.
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
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Assuming 9" between ball joints and a currently vertical spindle, 3.14 * (4.5^2) = 64 (radius of a circle) 360 * (64 * .25) = 1.4 degrees (360 degrees in a circle times the fraction of the circle that is 1/4") So 1" should net about 5.6*, 3/4" would be around 4.2* gain |
Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
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I ended up grinding a small flat in the shaft and then drilling with a 5/8" masonry bit. I noticed in the process that I didn't need to sink the hole in the shaft at all on the sides because the locating pin sits flush with the seats as they slope upward -- I think grinding flats for locating would work just fine considering this, since a sunk hole is actually just removing material that doesn't need to be there. Using a cap screw might be a different story though depending on the head depth.
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
Anyone done this with CPP arms?
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