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Re: Bolt on mustang ii
you can also buy allen head set screws and use a jam nut so there is no screw "head" sticking out to hit anything. i personally would not trust just a screw with loctite and no jam nut.
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That's what I was referring to. It has the Allen screw & jam nut.
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If everything is cut to length it will be very hard to dis-assemble your steering shafts with out removing either the steering column or the rack and pinion
I use a short set screw, allen head (flush), and dimple the input shaft of the R&P and a bit of red locktite. 67K miles and what a b*tch to change the R&P when it started leaking, I would not worry! |
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Making some progress, got the brake lines plumed and steering linkage figured out. Had to dimple the header to clear the shaft.
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Again, sorry for the multiple posts, can't figure out how to attach multiple pics on the iPad. Here's the brakeline.
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Still got a few things to do but couldn't wait to stick a fender on to see what it would look like. Haven't bought the larger wheels as planned (18", buying a house right now so they have to wait) so I'm using the old ones for now. These are 17 x 7 with a 1.25 adapter as they are the big Chevy bolt pattern.
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Thanks for the preview. Gives me an idea of what I can look forward to. I finally got around to bolting some of the front end together again now that it has some paint on it. Been busy renovating my house but decided to take some time for my truck. I'm glad to see yours is working out for you.
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Is the shaft too close to the header?
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i would say yet, but that is just me.
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Looks good from here !
The engine torques to the right so you should O K as long as there is some clearance for air to pass over exhaust |
Re: Bolt on mustang ii
I would be wondering about whether or not that support bearing is gonna get cooked as well. better check to be sure the ball spacers in the bearing are steel and not plastic or composite. if it were to sieze up or jam due to the bearing packing it in that could lead to an exciting drive.is there room there for a heat shield of some sort?
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Yeah, I was afraid of that too. I may switch to a set of rear dump cast iron manifolds.
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I'm done! May have to raise it an inch or so because the tires look like they'll rub a little when the steering wheel is cranked all the way. Thank God for ride height adjusters! Haven't hit the street yet, we'll see if the weather holds up tomorrow!
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did you get the deal with the spacers under the lower ball joint nut fixed? I wouldn't run that deal like that.
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Ended up raising it up about 2" to clear the wheels (17x7 with 1.25" adaptor). I'd purchased a sway bar that mounted behind the crossmember but had to remove it because it interfered with the lower control arm travel.
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Finally got moved into the new place and now I have time to redirect some attention to the truck. I've put about 100 miles or so on it and will be making a couple of changes:
1. Swapping the dropped spindles for stock height. To keep the tires from rubbing on the fenders the ride height adjusters are maxed out pushing the coils below the spring hat & even though the manufacturer says that's the way it's supposed to be, I'm really nor comfortable with that. 2. Got to get a different sway bar that mounts in front of the control arms. The rear mount unit I fave hit the bottom of the control arms. 3. Gonna give coilovers a try, found these on EBay for a decent price. 4. Not a change but need to try to figure out why the brakes are dragging. |
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Mine is a Speedway kit. Went in nicely. You can check mine out on my build thread.
I think the one used in this thread was a geared kit but not entirely sure. |
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Did you have the front end Aligned how much Castor did you have installed |
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Installed my crossmember and upper hats this weekend. Was the Gearhead piece. Looks 100% identical to the Speedway piece but can't be sure. Went in super easy, everything lined up great and fit perfect. Nice and square to boot. Have since disassembled to clean, paint, etc.
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