Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

An overview of what we are working on.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Line Bias Valve.

The Line Bias Valve matches Line Pressure to Torque Rise. After about 60% throttle the Line Bias Valve starts to open & bleeds off Line Pressure.

The rate it opens varies on what Weight Spring is installed.

This is a BIG concern when installing a random 700R4 behind modified/Torquey engines because GM matches the Line Bias Valve Spring to each application.
A TPI Vette has a stiffer spring than a 4 cyl. S-10 for example.

The TransGo 700-jr has a Line Bias spring that works very well even with small Boost Valves & Even Better with Larger Boost Valves.

**NOTE, DO NOT block the Line Bias Valve, There are applications that would call for this, Like a Big Block that gets full throttle all the time, But then again....Why use a 700 in this circumstance??**

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

3-2 Downshift Control Valve

Remove the Roll Pin, (Place finger over the hole, This spring will launch into orbit).

If you want a easier 3-2 Downshift, Omit the Spring, (I would leave the spring out, & see how you like it) If the 3-2 downshift is to active for your liking you can reinstall the stock spring.

If your shift kit comes with a 3-2 valve spring, DO NOT use it! It is generally stiffer than the OEM spring making 3-2 downshifts hard to obtain.

Install the Valve as shown below.

Followed by the spring if you want it.

Install the Roll Pin through the top of the Valve Body, So you can remove the roll pin without dropping the Valve Body.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

OK, Time for the other side of the Valve Body.

Lets start with the M.T.V. Up & Down Valves. M.T.V. stands for Modulated Throttle Valve.

Modulated T.V. Up-Shift Valve Info.

TV oil (From the TV Valve) increases with throttle opening & delays Upshifts under heavy acceleration.

At light throttle/Part throttle (PT) line pressure ramps-up quickly, If TV pressure was sent directly to the TV Shift Valves....PT Upshifts would not take place until a pretty good speed was reached (For Governor Pressure to overcome TV pressure)

The MTV Up valves job is to Modulate TV pressure sent to the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 & Converter Shift Throttle Valves under 50% throttle.

The MTV Up valve starts to open around 10% throttle & is fully open around 50% throttle (Depending on Spring weight)

Under 10% throttle, TV pressure takes No Part in Upshifts, It is handled 100% by Governor pressure.

Over 50% throttle, All TV pressure is sent to the TV Shift Valves, Now the upshifts can be delayed by full TV pressure under hard Throttle.

This chart may help.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

M.T.V. Down-Shift Valve

Starts to open around 40%, fully open at around 65% throttle.

This valve acts as "Detent". Similar to a TH350 Detent cable or the TH400 Detent Solenoid....Except completely hydraulic.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Converter TV Valve/Converter Shift Valve.

**NOTE, Valve Bodies manufactured after '88 usually do not have the bore machined, And some are not machined for the Converter Shift Valve, But are Machined for the Converter TV Bushing.**

If your Valve Body Is not machined for BOTH valves Ignore this post!!!!!

Remove Converter TV Bushing, TV Valve & spring, & Converter Shift Valve If equipped.

If the Valve Body has Outer & Inner Aluminum Dummy Plugs, Remove those.

Replace with a TransGo 700-LU Hydraulic Lock-up valve kit.
Read the instructions, DO Not Install Checkball in the TCC Solenoid!!! As much as I like some TransGo stuff, Blocking the TCC solenoid is retarded.

Ground the Black wire of the TCC Solenoid to a Valve Body bolt.
Run the Red wire of the TCC Solenoid to a "Dual Pole" brake switch to kill the Power to the TCC solenoid when the brakes are applied.

This will apply the TCC after 3rd gear under normal driving, And after 4th gear during hard driving. Will unlock with heavy throttle. Works really GOOD!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

3-4 TV Bushing, TV valve & Shift Valve.

If you have a '88 & up Valve Body, Clean & reinstall Valvetrain.

If your Valve Body is earlier & You want full throttle 3-4 upshifts, Install TransGo 7-4-V. http://www.transgo.com/products.php?...dcountview=Yes

The Late 3-4 TV bushing has a protruding end, The Early Bushing has a flat end.

And of coarse install roll-pin through the top of the Valve Body.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

2-3 TV Bushing, TV Valve & Shift valve.

Clean & reinstall, If tuning is required later on.....
A Stouter TV Valve spring will render Later 2-3 shifts, Lighter = Earlier 2-3.

The TV Valve & Bushing comes in different Diameters that is matched to the Governor for the original vehicle it came in......
The larger the TV valve, The Later the shift.

Measure the "Face" diameter of the TV Valve that faces the Shift Valve, Record the measurement for Tuning purposes.

This is the reason Shift Kit springs for Shift Valves do not work in "Swap" 700R4's

Again, Install roll-pin through the top of the Valve Body.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

1-2 TV/Low Bushing, TV/Low Valve, & 1-2 Shift Valve.

Clean & reinstall, If 1-2 shift is way off, Governor Changes would be next. The 1-2 shift is usually pretty good with a Calibrated Governor.

Roll pin through the top;)

**Note, Early (Type 1) valve bodies have separate Bushing/Valves for LOW & 1-2 TV...& has 2 versions, PM me if you need info.**

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Check your work on the Shift Valves....

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Valve Body Checkball locations, Use TransJel to stick the Checkballs to the Valve Body....Just enough to do the job!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Time to Install the Valve Body.

Install the Manual Link Rod as shown in the picture below.

Hand tighten the 1-2 Accumulator Housing & Auxiliary Valve body bolts.

Remove the Z-Bolt alignment stud that is closest to the shifter Comb.....It gets in the way of installing the Valve Body.

You may need help holding the Valve Body over the Case to start the Manual Link Rod into the Manual Shift Valve.

Center the Valve Body over the remaining Z-Hole alignment Stud, Slowly lower the Valve Body onto the Separator Plate Gasket.

**NOTE, Before sitting the Valve Body all the way down...Make Sure no Checkball has fallen onto the Separator Plate, You can usually hear them drop, But still check**

Start the Z-Hole Valve Body Bolt First!

Install the Forward Accumulator Feed Pipe if equipped.

Start the rest of the Valve Body bolts, Be aware of the Brackets & Hold down locations in the Pic below.

I do the TV Actuator Assembly last along with removing the other Alignment stud

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Torque ALL Valve Body Bolts, 1-2 Accm., & Aux. Valve Body Bolt to 8 Foot Pounds (96 Inch Pounds), A Inch Pound torque wrench is best, Foot Pound are not very accurate in the lower scales.

Tighten in Sequence!!!

Install Manual Detent Spring, Torque the bolt to 18 foot pounds.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Lock-Up wiring.....WITHOUT CONVERTER SHIFT VALVE in the Valve Body!!

The easiest solution is to stack Lock-up on top of the 3-4 Shift with the 4th gear pressure. You will need a N.O. (Normally open) pressure switch installed in the 4th gear oil port in the Valve Body, The Switch you see in the above pictures is where the Switch goes.

Bowler has a "Time Delay" TCC module that works very well in Swaps. A Vendor here is selling them at a good price http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=611898
Comes with a New harness, 4th gear switch & Dual Pole brake switch, Keep that in mind when you perceive the price to be high.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Install the transmission Filter, SPX Filtran is highly recommended, Delco Filters are Filtran.

Install Trans Pan Gasket & Trans Pan. Cork & Rubber gaskets LEAK!!
OEM Gasket, AC-Delco part# 8654799.
The Bowler TCC kit comes with a OEM style Gasket.

Clean & Place Magnet in Trans Pan.

•Tighten the bolts alternately and evenly to 8 Foot Pounds (96 Inch Pounds).

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Extension Housing/Tail Housing.

Speedometer gear selection. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/sp...__va.htm#700r4

Install Speedo Drive gear on Output Shaft If replacing. Note the Color you have when searching for Driven Gears & Housings.

Replace Bushing, AC-Delco 24241501 Teflon coated Bushing.
Aftermarket Brass are OK to use.
Stay away from the Aluminum ones!!

Install Output Seal, Coat the outside diameter of the seal with Loctite.

Install Tail Housing to Case seal on the Housing. It is "square cut" be sure it's not "rolled"

Install Tail Housing, Torque the Four Bolts to 25 Foot Pounds.

Install Speedo Driven Gear & Housing.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Governor.

Let me start out by saying.....Stock V8 700R4 Governors are calibrated to hit "High Gear" as soon as possible for MPG & Emissions reasons, Corvette & F-body Light Weight Governors being the exception.
But they have there drawbacks as well like "Floating the Valves" on a WOT 1-2 shift on certain engines.

I have found that using TH350 Governors are a good compromise, New NOS ones can be found on E-Bay.

TCI & B&M sell Governor Calibration kits, If you wish to go that route.

**Tuning with TransGo Governor Springs**
These are Combinations I find to work well.

Earliest Shift to Latest Shift....

Red & Yellow
Blue & Yellow
Red & Green
Red & Black
Blue & Green
Red & White
Blue & Black
Blue & White
Yellow & Green
Yellow & Black
Yellow & White
Green & White
Yellow & No Spring

The Green Governor spring comes in TH350 shift kits, It is modeled after a Stock Green TH350 spring.



Inspect Governor Gear for wear.

Make sure the Governor Valve has free movement, Hold the Weights closed & shake the Governor, The Valve movement should be audible.

Insert Governor in it's bore.

Install the square cut Cover seal on the Governor Cover.

Install Governor Cover, Do Not Use Silicone, That seems to be a thing for people to do....It's not needed.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

TV Cable Seal Installs in the Case First! Then the Cable Housing.

Install Dipstick Seal into Case.

Double check that the Turbine Shaft Seal is in place, Lube it with some TransJel before installing the Converter.

A Dry 700R4 with a Stock Diameter Converter takes 12 Quarts of ATF, Pour 7 quarts in, Start the engine, Then pour the rest.

That is pretty much it. You can post Questions &/or Comments now.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Ensure you state the external vacuum switch everyone wants to use is no longer required when you use the Transgo Lock up kit....I knew you would like the results of this....no more electrical requirements on a 700R4 swap.....been doing this for years....

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

OK, Yes...Vacuum switches are terrible & should not be used.

I think it is important to kill power to the TCC solenoid when braking. Even when using the 700-LU or the stock Converter Shift/TV Line-up.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Play nice or don't play at all. Insults will not be tolerated.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I didn't make this a sticky so it could become a pissing match. This thread will be extremely helpful to people DON'T RUIN IT. Im not going to take sides but from the hundreds of people that Clinebarger has helped he obviously knows what he is talking about. Either hes the best google searcher on the face of the planet or he knows what hes talking about. Anymore nonsense and I will edit this post.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Edited to remove quotes from inflammatory posts.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

great info havent gone thru it all yet. really helpful
thanks clinebarger

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Thank you in advance for taking the time to break this down for us!

I just toasted 3rd and 4th in my 700r4 after putting it behind a built 410 big block. It had around 25k miles on it behind a mild 350...built by a transmission shop that I will not name in Cumming, GA. They claimed it would handle 500ft lbs of tq. I think my engine is on the low end of 400 ft lbs...

After reading through this twice, I think I will tackle the rebuild. I will have many questions when I get this started.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

So, I just finished reading this whole thread again. I have all the parts I need for the 700R4 and I'm going to tear into it this next Saturday. Wish me luck and I'll keep you all posted as I work on it.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Had my first scare this last weekend. Washing down the case and valve body at the local spray wash. I picked up the valve body and the manual valve slipped out and fell through the grate into the sump. 1/2 hour later, and smelling like a swamp monster, I found it with a magnet. fyi... Take that valve out before you do much work on the valve body there's nothing holding it in until the valve body is bolted to the case.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Sub'd.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

This is for GMCdeadhead, But figured it can help others with a similar problem.

His 700R4 is locking on top of 2nd gear, This is usually because the TCC solenoid is getting power & ground at all times, The Converter apply valve gets its oil from 2nd gear oil.....That is why it will lock in second & stay locked up 'til the trans downshifts to 1st gear (2nd gear oil is present in 2nd, 3rd & 4th)

He has a 2 pole 4th gear pressure switch, Here are some diagrams on how to wire it correctly.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

So looking at my trans do I need to change any of the wiring to use a TC lockup switch? 1986 700r4

Thanks!

http://gsman.smugmug.com/Other/Junk-..._171350-XL.jpg

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Look at post #126, Do you have a TCC Shift Valve Bore?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Sorry I haven't replied until now. Thanks for the help!

I was able to install the longer TV spring (From BTO) so I'm assuming that means I have a TCC shift valve bore.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

2 totally different things.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

My bad..understand. Here's a pick of the same area in my trans as post 126

http://gsman.smugmug.com/Other/Junk-...j9386&lb=1&s=A

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I hate trying to post from my phone! Here's the pic.

http://gsman.smugmug.com/Other/Junk-..._182459-XL.jpg

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

You have some choices to make., Your trans does have a Converter Shift Valve bore.

Option 1......

I recommend you buy the Trans Go 700-LU lock-up valve kit, This will probably require dropping the Valve Body to remove the roll pin holding the Valve in (Unless the last builder had the forsight to install the roll pin from the bottom)
Then wire it like shown in post #126.

Option 2......

Your trans "Appears" to have a Factory Converter shift Valve train already, Notice the "5" on the end of the Bushing, This indicates a calibration, If it had Dummy plugs.....No stamped numbers would be present.
You could wire it like in post #126 & try it out, But I have no way to know how it will act, It may lock-up in 2nd gear under light throttle, Or it may lock-up after 4th & un-lock to easy with throttle input. Or the Converter Shift TV bushing could be worn out.....That will cause it to unlock-lock-unlock-lock.

Option 3.......

Use the 4th gear pressure switch to lock the converter on top of 4th gear, Wire it like shown in post #149. The 4th gear pressure switch is located next to the 2nd gear Accumulator.

**NOTE** The Converter Shift valve will still be "Active" after the TCC solenoid is closed.....i.e. If the Bushing is worn out it will do the quick lock-unlock scenario. That is why I recommend the TG 700-LU.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Thank you soooo much for describing those options!:metal: I think I'll start with option #2 and see how it works. I'm pulling the truck apart for a frame off once I get the mechanicals straightened out so can do option#1 then if needed. I'll report back with my results.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Hey guys,
Finally got a pressure gauge hooked up to my 700r4. Pressures were as follow with the TV cable hooked up (BTO kit). I will say to get any tension on the TV cable I had to us all of the adjustment allowed. When I use my finger and deflect the cable I immediately get a rise in pressure (In park), but it peaks at 140.

P-110
R-180
N-110
D-110
3-110
2-100
1-100

This is a used trans so rolling the dice I know. What doesn't look right is 1st and 2nd pressures being so low. I haven't even driven it out of the garage yet so no input on how it actually shifts.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Your P,N,D4,D3 baseline pressure's is a little high, What is it with the TV unhooked? Your looking for just a few pounds above that at closed throttle, Example....If the reading is 75 psi with it unhooked, You want around 77-78 psi with it hooked up.

Are you using the BTO TV spring? It is important that you do!!

The D1 & D2 pressures are very low, What makes this odd is the Reverse Pressures are OK.....All 3 of these positions use the Reverse Boost Valve to boost Line Pressure. So The Reverse Boost valve is working.

Is your shifter adjusted correctly, As in...Are you sure your actually in 1st/2nd at the trans & not between them.....?

Another possibility is there is a major leak in the Overrun Clutch apply circuit, This Clutch is only ON in D1 & D2.
If this is the case....Don't shift into these 2 ranges 'til it can be fixed.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Well this what I found. I am using the longer BTO spring.Wit the tv cable disconnected pressure dropped around 5psi, might have had it a little snug but that's close. Confirmed the linkage is correctly selecting the right gear.

1st -100
2nd-105
3rd-105
D-110
N-100
R-185..but fluctuating wildly 15 pounds either way.
p-105

if it is what you described clinebarger, does the tranny need to come out or is it something that can be fixed with it installed?

Thanks!