Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
Thanks Bryce!! I try and make most things if I can I enjoy the fabrication challenge..
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Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
Bad ass wheel nice work!:metal:metal:
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Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
Thank You!
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Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
Yes it is 1/8" I didn't want it flimsy..
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Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
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This pic shows the plate I made for the latch after I cut out the door (sorry did not have pic of cutting section out) because of how the latch is this section of the door moves out 1/2" so I had to build it out..
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Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
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This view shows how it needed to come out.
the reason it comes out is the arm for the hinge where it needs to line up with hole in the door dictates this |
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Quick shot of the Carriage bolt this will be my button (put in drill and sanded then polished)
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Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
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These are the components for the buttons..
large bushings,small bushings,flat washers,cone shaped springs and the carriage bolts. (never mind the pins i decided not to go with them) |
Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
Cool! Watching how you are doing your latches.
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Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
X2 ^^
Very interesting for me how you make this work. |
Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
On my to do list too. Nice work Reaper....now if I can just remember it all.
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Farmersid,kees and A.D. thanks so much for the support I'll keep posting if all you guys keep checking in..
Mark.. |
Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
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So how it works is take the washer and drill it out to fit the small bushing then weld. you can see how the cone shaped spring fits over the bushing and will fit under the head of the carriage bolt.
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Small bushing welded to the washer..
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Now I weld the large bushing and washer together..
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Here you can get the idea of what I'm going for.
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This is what it looks like together..
the bushing will then be inserted into the door and the carriage bolt AKA the button will be exposed... |
Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
Nice so far!
And I am sure we'll keep checking in ;-) |
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Right on brother!!
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Great next steps.....thanks for sharing. |
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Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
Thanks again guys!!!
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Just a quick pic of how it looks going together..
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In this pic it shows a couple things 1. the nut on the backside of the large bushing is for setting the depth of the button. 2. the flange or plate I welded to the bushing is for mounting it to the inside of the door. the reason I made this is I didn't want to weld anything to the outside of the door..so a hole is drilled for the bushing to go through the plate sets the desired depth for bushing sticking through the hole then the plate is welded to the inner skin of the door (A.D. doors have this for strength around handle)
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As you can see in the 1st pic the hole for the bushing and the shape of the plate. In the 2nd pic it shows how it goes in the backside also it reveals the inner skin I was talking about...
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This is what the bushing looks like coming through the door. I wanted this sticking out to make a trim ring (this will not be painted body color) once the plate is welded to the inner skin there is NO body work to be done!!!!
Till next time.. Mark... |
Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
Nice!!
Maybe I missed it, but how is the door locked? Electrical with a remote? |
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To answer this question there is no lock at this point.. we dont have to worry about people getting in out cars around here lol..
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Here is a shot of what the button looks like installed on the truck as you can see no weld to clean up and after i blend in the paint around the bushing i will make a nice trim ring..
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In this pic if you look close you can see how it works..I put a nylok nut on the carriage bolt so it will not loosen. and you can see the arm for the latch so you push it in and "pop"
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This is a pic of my door popper I ended up having to use this do to the weight of the door (spring wasn't strong enough) so I had these lying around the shot your looking at is from inside the cab at the "B" pillar I used the stock hole that a door bumper goes through and drilled it out to fit the plunger. then I made a plate to weld into the pillar in the center of this I used a collar stop for the popper to slide through this is used to be able to adjust the tension.
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This shows a better look of how it will work..
the popper can slide forward and back to get or take away tension and the collar on the backside of pillar has a set screw so you can lock it in place.. |
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These two pics show the stock style striker pin..the 2nd pic is my design I came up with the reason for this is just so you don't have that harsh "metal sound" when you close the door. First i took a button head cap screw the length I needed and took nylon bushing the same Dia of the stock striker then I tapped the nylon this will help it from just spinning. The end result is a quiet closing door...
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This is just a final look at the door after welding and metal finish and the end of this task. On to the next...
Mark... |
Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
Awesome work! Very creative. Thanks for sharing this, Mark.
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Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
That is really nice fabwork!!
Great How-To!! One question please: Does this work with most bearclaws or must I have a particular one/brand?? I'm thinking of do this on my '59 also? (Sorry to hijack this into your build, but as everybody reads this ;-)... ) |
Re: "Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D
yes it will work with any brand just make sure the latches are of good quality. The main reason I used the single style. Aka medium size
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sorry oat connection to internet
I used the medium latches over large because they are easier to adjust... |
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this the medium size latch..about 45.00 for the set
You can get then from( Rocky hinge) they have alot of really nice products if you go to the accessories section their is several items you can get to make things easy to install handles etc. |
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