Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Again, really nice stuff. Everything bolted right up, no problems. Nice to have a product that performs as advertised and not have to worry about having sent them out for powder before mock-up. I painted the rotors and calipers the same scheme as the front brakes--I think they turned out well. Part of me wants to paint the calipers red, but I think the subtle grey fits this truck better...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Still have to re-flare the axle hard-lines to mate up with the Kore3 braided lines--if that doesn't work, I'll just bend up some new. I like the end result; looks almost factory :chevy:

In final assembly, I did find that I will need longer wheel studs and that the pad slightly contacts the rotor hub when rolling. Studs are cheap and I should be able to modify the pad backing plate to clear...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Great work as always!
Is there any braking advantage to placing the caliper on the front side of the axle vs the rear side?
I would also be interested in the "longer wheel stud" part number you use.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! From what I've read, there's no discernible advantage either way--it's just what looked right to me. I did have to swap the calipers to opposite sides to properly orient the bleeders. There are stud part numbers floating around here somewhere, I'll have to do a search. These would get me by, as they're engaging 5.5 threads, but I'd feel more comfortable with a few more turns...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

A little research found this:

Stock rear stud: Dorman 610-138

Knurl Diameter 0.535
Package Quantity 10
Quick-Start Nose No
Shoulder Length 0.3125
Stud Material Steel
Thread Handling Right Hand Thread
Thread Size 1/2-20
Under Head Length 1.53125
Wheel Stud Style Serrated Stud


Potential replacement: Dorman 610-258

Knurl Diameter 0.536
Package Quantity 10
Quick-Start Nose No
Shoulder Length 0.25
Stud Material Steel
Thread Handling Right Hand Thread
Thread Size 1/2-20
Under Head Length 1.71875
Wheel Stud Style Serrated Stud

So, approx 4 more threads engaged which should be 9.5-10, using the "engage the same depth as diameter" rule, on a 1/2-20 stud- this is just about perfect.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the Dorman parts numbers.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

NP! FYI, I checked the application on those studs and its what GM used on the Cadillac rear discs in the late '70s, so I think we have a winner :chevy:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

nice work as always. I couldn't tell for sure from the pics...but it looked like there's no inner or outer parking brake. Are you running w/o, did I miss something, or do you have something else in mind?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good, nice work!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No parking brake for now. The brackets accept 76-78 Eldorado calipers if I decide I want one.
Thanks! Chipping away...

In related news, I picked up a 610-258 at the LAPS-- doesn't look like they will be long enough, so on to the next plan, whatever that is...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Just curious. There are trans tailshaft and rear axle pinion type p-brakes that attach to the d-shaft.

http://www.dojodesign.com/toyota/cha...ansmission.jpg

http://tsmmfg.com/003-1.jpg

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I've had that thought, too. Hard to find an affordable pinion option. Who makes those you posted? What's the cost like? I can upgrade to the Eldo calipers for a couple hun.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ok, studs. The stockers are too short for the discs, the other replacements aren't much longer, so the third option is a F*rd part.

Dorman 610-298

Type : Serrated Stud
Thread : 1/2-20
Knurl Dia. : .547"
Length : 2"
Shoulder Length : 11/16"


I grabbed one of each from the LAPS for comparison:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Length comparisons. I will have to slightly enlarge the axle holes to fit the .547 knurl of the longer studs, but I can live with that. Also may have to use long lug nuts or trim the speed-start tips...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Couldn't say...just did a few keyword searches. :lol:

Seems the 9" has the most options. I'm guessing captainfab could come up with something for our 12 bolts tho!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

nice job !!! i personally like the calipers on that gray on your truck !!!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice build man. I may be late but never to late to subscribe.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! I'm pretty happy with the grey, but part of me wants to show off a little. Red calipers only look good clean, though, and this thing gets driven...
Thanks! Welcome aboard :chevy:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Okey-doke. Finally wrapped up the brake install. Got the '70 Corvette master cylinder and combo valve mounted. The new studs also worked out perfectly for the rear; I didn't even have to drill, they pressed right in and give 13-14 turns of the lugnut before they're snug.

Boring pic sorry, but after my wife helping bleed the lines and bedding-in the rear pads, this beast STOPS! Calling this part of the project done :) Next up, lower control arms and steering linkage...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

where's the pix of the master and valve ?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Sorry I missed your comment--been doing the family thing and spending time chasing down a possible new project--I need a 67-72 that I can haul the family in ;)

Shot some pics just for you :D So, after installing my expensive, custom 1" bore master cylinder and having basically no pedal feel and loooooong travel, combined with poor stopping, I swapped to a '70 Corvette power brakes 1.125" deep bore style I picked up at the LAPS. Painted 'er up with the same Eastwood grey I used on the calipers; it bolted right up to the booster and my existing lines screwed right in. Works like a charm--pedal feel returned and it locks 'em up no problem. The combination valve is a CPP unit that I picked up on eBay for cheap. All the lines screwed right into it as well, thanks to GM standardization.

Crappy, night-time, cell-phone pics- sorry, it doesn't like to focus at night...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

[QUOTE=gringoloco;5718943]Sorry I missed your comment--been doing the family thing and spending time chasing down a possible new project--I need a 67-72 that I can haul the family in ;)

cool , so i take it we are looking for a sub then !!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I vote for a blazer for the family project...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, you're both right, kinda. I started out looking for a Sub, since its the logical family hauler choice. I like the look of them slammed, but while looking around some, I showed a few to my wife, who made a face like she smelled something awful. When I showed her a Blazer, it was "ooh, that's nice". She also told me she knows how much I miss my old Blazer (I tell her so every time I come across a picture of it, or see a nice one at a show), so we're leaning more towards a Blazer at this point. I'd like to find a nice 2wd, but will settle for the right 4wd that I can later convert :devil:

More to come :)
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Just cant get the Blazer out of the memory bank EY!!!!! I know of a couple that are decent.