Re: Make it handle
I would drill mine. :)
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with my 2.5" drop spindles I added tubular upper control arms to my low budget build because I wanted the extra 5* of caster....if needed I'd drill for more.
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Re: Make it handle
Rob,
I am setting up a 3 link wishbone(triang 4) and I am having trouble with fitting everything around the driveshaft. What do you think about this set up, 57% Anit Squat,16RCH, 2* roll oversteer, Ic 127" 13", I think my Cog should be around 18 or 19. Wheel base is 116" Thanks |
Re: Make it handle
I'd have no problem drilling that out especially if it gave you the option of using a high quality Cro Mo rod end.
M5 |
Re: Make it handle
Good feedback, keep it coming. Those that know me, know that safety is a concern, and I tend to overbuild.
WvGearhead first off, you need to speek up more often. How about some picts. How are you getting your numbers? Are you using Suspension-Pro? You seem to be up on this stuff. Thats great. Your set-up seems to be pretty good, I'm guessing your tire is about 29" dia. thats puts your roll center a few inches above the axle center line (hieght). I would consider lowering it a bit, or at least allowing for an adjustment later, second set of forward holes. Some squat in a truck is good, to help with some weight transfer. Lets go over this on the forum so everyone can check out your work. How about shocks/springs? |
Re: Make it handle
I'm going to have to do some reading....
Great thread BTW. The questions I have are related to materials. Where does one find the right tubing and end links for fabricating things like rear end linkage? Mabye it's covered in the recommended reading earlier in this thread. Of course it probably makes sense to buy off the shelf on some items. Nothing like making your own pieces though. |
Re: Make it handle
Rob,
I am building a 53 3100 on air, The front is a tci MII and the rear is a custom built Wishbone I picked up, The wishbone and the lowers both span 28", so it should keep constant pinion angle. My problem is, I didnt think about the driveshaft...hmmm, So now I am trying to get the best numbers I can without having to flip the wishbone around and put the single on the center section. I used a suspension calculator from a 4wheel drive form. I dont have any big intentions on racing the truck, but you never know. I figure I would atleast try to make it real fun to drive anyway. The numbers I am plugging in are: upper links ,frame end x=28 y=0 z=17.50 Axle end x=0 y=17 z=18.86 lower links frame end, x=28 y=17 z=9.14 axle end x=0 y=17 z=8.14. This equals AntiSquat=%57 RCH17", IC x=127" z= 13" Roll oversteer 2*, travel roll axis -2.78*. I am not sure about the roll steer, how much is too much. How do you think this set up would handle and ride? The Cog I am guessing to be around 19", and as for the tire size I am planning on running around a 26" tire. Aaron |
Re: Make it handle
Oh yea just in case, X=0 on the axle y=0 at cl of chassis and z-=0 at shop floor
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Re: Make it handle
Wvgearhead- What kind of power is your drivetrain puting out? You could always run a 2-piece driveshaft as well. It should take care of your clearance issues on your upper wishbone.
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I can't seem to find the books mentioned earlier on learning suspension. Anyone got the names of them? Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Make it handle
Man looks I got some serious learning to get after.
M5 |
Re: Make it handle
I am running a 450 hp small block, hopefully a lt1 t56 if I can find one and a 8.8 rear with a locker and 373s. M5 there are books, but you can learn alot by google. I looked at some other forums geared for road racing. The best calculator I have found was actually on a 4 wheeldrive forum. I still need to read a lot more, but I'm learning.
Aaron Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Make it handle
An extra ujoint scares me, I have been known to break things. Lol
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Re: Make it handle
Wv Do you have the motor/trans mocked up yet? Remember that it is helpfull to mount the motor as low, and as far back, as you can. Sometimes we notch the MII crossmembers and box them back up to create more oil pan clearance. The bottom of the pan can be even with the running board. it will look small in the engine bay, but it will drive/handle better. Also, the low motor/trans hieght may solve your driveshaft issue. Try to keep the carb base level with the frame, crank angle will then be about 3*, then match the pinion.
Info search, I'll post up some book/web/chart info later:smoke: |
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Great rob, thanks
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Thanks Nate for the info, I've read Herb Adams, I'm gonna have to pick up the Carroll Smith's books next. What would you guys suggest for material size for building a frame. What dimensions and thickness are working best for the frame builders.
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We build a three piece main rail. 2 x 6, .188 wall in the middle (appx firewall to the start of the rear fick) and 2 x 4, .188 on each end. Yes, its a bit heavier, about 85 lbs over a 2 x 4 .120 wall pair of rail, but this is good weight. - low and centered. Our X-members for these trucks are 2 x 4 .120.
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Thanks Rob and N2TRUX for the help.
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Re: Make it handle
[QUOTE=robnolimit;4167810]The whole goal of A arm swapping, and I don't know if this really works, is to increase positive 'Caster'. Stock C-10's spec out 1 or 2 degrees, but your truck will respond well to 6 to 7 deg, and more for the wide tire guys, bigger than 8". To my knowledge, nobody makes a set of arms to gain caster, may someone should. The trick is to move the lower ball joint forward about a 1/2", and the upper ball joint back about 7/8", this will keep the wheel centered and net about 8 deg. + caster.
Robnolimit, I just found this. Hotckis make the corrected A arm. What do you think? http://www.hotchkis.net/search.html?...mitForm=Search |
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