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-   -   Project "Hulk Jr" (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=700276)

First c10 05-27-2016 05:37 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
This is the first start up.
first start up

First c10 05-29-2016 10:59 AM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
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I decided to just hold off on worrying about the motor until my friend gets here. So my son and I spent some time finishing up on some items on the check list.
We were able to put the hump in and install the floor matting. Then got the rubber flooring in and sill plates install. Got the kick panels installed and then the seat. It was like midnight when we were done so not a good picture.

First c10 05-29-2016 11:04 AM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
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Pioneer kick panel installed. I trimmed the e-brake handle about 1/2". Even though it doesn't look like it will clear in the picture. After looking at the picture it looks like something needs paint. Oh and I did have to relocate the dimmer switch.

First c10 05-29-2016 06:49 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
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Found the problem or at least 1 of them. This fricking truck has had the weirdest things go wrong. Attached it a picture of a broken ProForm self aligning roller tip rocker arm.
Now I have a question on the rocker stud length.
Does anyone know what the actual length of the stud length is on a vortec head?

lowrodderchev 05-29-2016 06:56 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
excuse me but WTF!!! I have never seen that happen before. that is a weird thing to happen glad you figured it out

First c10 05-29-2016 06:59 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
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Broken exhaust rocker and a loose intake rocker on cylinder 5. I am thinking pulled stud on intake stud.
The intake rocker stud is longer the the exhaust by about .095"
Intake rocker stud is about 1.335 and the exhaust rocker stud is about 1.43"

First c10 05-29-2016 08:50 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev (Post 7609039)
excuse me but WTF!!! I have never seen that happen before. that is a weird thing to happen glad you figured it out

I told you guys this truck is driving me crazy. Cursed I tell you. Me or the truck!!!

First c10 05-30-2016 08:09 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
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Ok so I thought I would try and get a few thing done since I can't drive the truck. I installed a 1 piece spacer between the clutch fan and the water pump. It was about 3" away from the radiation. Now it's about 3/4. Well the clutch is what I measured since it sticks out farther than the fan.
Do you guys think it will be ok?

First c10 05-31-2016 12:50 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
Well Pro Form got back to me on the broken rocker arm...They are sending me a complete set of Full Roller rocker arms with poly locks at no cost.
I also found out that since the exhaust rocker broke it did not release the pressure in the cylinder and put major pressure on the intake valve so the stud pulled. I am told to put wicking grade Loctite and tap it back in and all should be good. I asked about piston damage or valve damage and they said the stud would pull before it damaged them.

junksaver 05-31-2016 06:13 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by First c10 (Post 7610053)
Ok so I thought I would try and get a few thing done since I can't drive the truck. I installed a spacer between the clutch fan and the water put. It was about 3-1/2" away from the radiation. Now it's about 3/4. Well the clutch is what I measured since it sticks out farther than the fan.
Do you guys think it will be ok?

I don't think you need that fan spacer, you just need a fan shroud. The only type of fan I have ever seen with a spacer were the old stock steel fans or flex fans.
Maybe someone else will give their opinion also.
Nice work, I've been watching this since the beginning.

First c10 05-31-2016 06:20 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
I agree with you that the spacer was for the flex fans. But since the motor is not in the stock location I have not seen a shroud that fits. So maybe a custom shroud. Do you see a problem with the extension and a fan clutch???

swamp rat 05-31-2016 08:48 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
I think as long as there is no wobble in the blade extension it should be ok, i do agree tho that removing one or both spacers and getting a shroud would probably be ideal.

If you can i'd take off all the rockers and put a straight edge across all the stud's to check for pulled studs.

Real bummer but the setback is not the end of the world, hang in there!

First c10 05-31-2016 11:23 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
When I get it running again I will check for a wobble in the fan.
As far as the rockers and studs I will press the 1 back in and install he new rockers and go from there.
Thank for the encouragement Swamprat.

First c10 05-31-2016 11:27 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
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Got the new steering wheel installed.

First c10 06-04-2016 03:33 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
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Not able to do much until I get the new set of roller rocker Monday. But got a chance to get the tires and wheels mounted.

lowrodderchev 06-04-2016 07:25 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
Nice wheels both the steering the MT's

junksaver 06-04-2016 11:06 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
Wheels and tires look good.

Back to your fan problem. Does your engine sit too far forward to use a 4wd fan shroud? If so have you thought about using a 2wd fan shroud?

First c10 06-05-2016 03:58 AM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by junksaver (Post 7615192)
Wheels and tires look good.

Back to your fan problem. Does your engine sit too far forward to use a 4wd fan shroud? If so have you thought about using a 2wd fan shroud?

The motor was moved forward 2-1/4" so the rear of the engine had room for the hei etc.
I haven't had a chance to get the measurements for either a 4x or 2x shroud. If someone has them let me know please.

First c10 06-06-2016 01:33 PM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
The rockers should be here today....

This is the valve adjustment procedure I am going to follow. Do you guys see any problems???

ENGINE OFF Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Quick and Accurate Way:
First, view this simple chart below for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines. Do you understand what it describes? A more detailed explanation follows below the chart. For other engines you will use the firing order that matches your engine to create a similar chart. This chart is based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below)

Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
• with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
• with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
• with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
• with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
• with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
• with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
• with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
• with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve

Engine "OFF" Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment Tips:
If the engine is complete and installed in the vehicle, warm up the engine by running it until it gets to operating temperature (15-minutes or so). "Cold" adjustments should only be used on new engines on as a preliminary adjustment on the engine stand. Once a new engine has been started and intial break-in procedures complete, readjusting the valves "hot" is recommended.
1. Have all necessary tools ready and then quickly remove the valve cover(s) while the engine is at operating temperature.
2. Begin the adjustment procedure by using the chart above, or one to match your firing order and opposites.
3. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT --- This means that you turn the engine by hand until the intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open (watch the rocker arm push down on the top of the valve stem, compressing the valve spring until it stops moving downward) --- and adjust the intake valve on "opposite in firing order" cylinder. Always remember, the opposite valve engine firing order dependent. Know your engine's firing order!
4. Go to ths opposite cylinder. This technical article uses the common firing order for small and big block Chevy engines as the example, so this would be the #6 cylinder.
5. Loosen the rocker nut (if using roller rockers there is typically a Jam Nut that you must first loosen with an Allen wrench) on the #6 intake valve.
6. Take two fingers and spin the pushrod back and forth between them to feel for resistance.
7. Carefully snug the adjustment nut and STOP when you feel resistance in the pushrod as it applies pressure to the socket in the rocker arm and lifter, this is considered "zero lash."
8. Turn the wrench 1/8 to 1/4 turn (see below) for performance, racing, or high RPM applications. Turn the wrench 1/4 to 1/2 turn for stock or mild street applications. For applications that regularly operate at consistent high RPM, use the slightly lighter setting of (1/8 turn).
9. If your valvetrain uses poly-locks, remember to reset (snug) the Allen screw
10. The adjustment for this valve is now complete!

11. Turn the engine by hand SLOWLY to the next cylinder / valve in the firing order.
12. Repeat the above steps, starting at #3 through #10, but use the next cylinder in the sequence. In our Chevy V8 example this is the intake valve for the #8 cylinder
13. Continue through all the intake valves and then start the procedure over for the exhaust

swamp rat 06-07-2016 02:12 AM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
I cant comment on that procedure, never tried it.. It looks like a lot of steps. Is this a solid cam lifter setup?

I have always followed my service manual, because i am running hydraulic lifters.. like this page, but follow the advice of the second poster and don't spin the push rod, move it up and down until movement stops, then an additional 1/2 turn.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...valves.168345/

Then readjust when running by backing off until you hear it clack, then slowly tighten until it quits, then an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

Ya might post the question in the engine forum, couldn't hurt.

First c10 06-07-2016 09:58 AM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by swamp rat (Post 7617463)
I cant comment on that procedure, never tried it.. It looks like a lot of steps. Is this a solid cam lifter setup?

I have always followed my service manual, because i am running hydraulic lifters.. like this page, but follow the advice of the second poster and don't spin the push rod, move it up and down until movement stops, then an additional 1/2 turn.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...valves.168345/

Then readjust when running by backing off until you hear it clack, then slowly tighten until it quits, then an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

Ya might post the question in the engine forum, couldn't hurt.

Thanks Mike.
I just copied and pasted it from the net....its a hydraulic flat tappet cam. I just thought I would throw it on the forum.

I received the full roller rockers yesterday. and will try and get them installed tonight after football practice.....summer practice has started so a lot less time for the truck...

First c10 06-08-2016 01:59 AM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
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Well look what I got installed tonight???

First c10 06-08-2016 02:00 AM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
1 Attachment(s)
Passenger side.

First c10 06-08-2016 02:06 AM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
I think I posted the wrong procedure for adjusting the valves. But I found the correct procedure and they went in without a hitch. Full roller rockers are so smooth. I never noticed how quite and smooth they are. I will post a video of them running. Just may have to edit out my son and his friend excitement.

First c10 06-08-2016 02:08 AM

Re: Project "Hulk Jr"
 
1 Attachment(s)
My son was able to drive it out of the shop and with a big smile on his face.


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