Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Here is the profile as it sits.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Nice work, looking really good!

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

those look great

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I've been playing around with a design of some exhaust tips that will exit thru my running boards. I was originally planning on using some of the Pype's rectangular exhaust tips, but I started thinking about a design that would more match the look of the hood vents. This is what I come up with. This may be a pain to construct, but I'll definitely keep it on the back burner.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

cool, I got faith you can make that.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

With work, birthday's, and pulling a muscle in my back, I haven't made much progress in the last couple of weeks. I decided to work on a little light duty project Sunday, so I shot some color on my overhead console.

I love the look of the Candy color, but what a pain. Two coats of silver base and 4 coats of Candy color. Shooting the body parts may be interesting, to say the least. Even the angle to the light gives a different shade appearance.

With so many pockets and areas that are hard to paint as a complete assembly, I don't see any way to remotely get an even color coverage unless you shoot apart. I've thought of maybe shooting three coats on the individual parts, wet sand, and shoot the final coat as an assembly. I've also tried to find a similar color in a single coverage paint that was close, but I did not find any that I liked as well. Feel free to chime in! Any advice is welcome!

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

That color looks killer. You got your paint work cut out for you!!

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

That does look very cool! As does the design for the exhaust tips. They carry the theme from the hood sides. Good ideas!

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I picked back up on the running board brackets this weekend. It took both days to fabricate the driver side front and rear brackets. Not that I'm in any huge hurry.

On the rear running board bracket, I went right over the top of the spring bracket.

On the front bracket, there were some existing holes on the bottom of the frame that I tapped to 1/2" NC. I added a brace to the side of the frame. I will drill the frame and add a rivet nut for bolting.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

the two biggest peeves of mine on the s10's. 1. Rad support, 2. running board brackets. I made notes on where they should mount, have I have to ever do it again. I think it took me like 8 hrs to fab and locate my brackets. Mine bolt on as well, welding them on surely would be faster, but I like being able to have them off. I smash my leg off the stock brackets all the time.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Finished the last brace for the passenger side running board. Sort of a weird angle on the horizontal run, but this should leave me plenty of room for my exhaust tips.

I moved on to my bed cross supports. I am using strut channel for the cross members. I added a couple of pieces of 3/4" angle iron on the top and bottom of the strut. I marked location on the front bed panel, and drill holes to tack weld to the cross brace. I will come back and add my bed support to the frame.

I started on the rear cross member, but I am still trying to figure out exactly what I want to do.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

you wouldn't mind sharing the plans for this firewall would you?

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Tetfemal

I will try to get you some dimensions this weekend on the firewall. I modeled up a concept design in Solidworks, but I changed it when I started fabricating. I went with an easier design to fabricate. I do know that the recess is 3" deep.

A word of advice, do take the time to brace the door jams. I did not, and when I changed the firewall and cowl panels, I did have the passenger side move on me a bit. It cost me a bit of extra work to get that straightened out.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Here are the dimensions of the firewall. Be sure to double check overall lengths.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Finished building the riser for the back of the bed. I made a couple of pieces to fit inside the strut channel and welded them to the bed sides and slipped the strut channel over these. I added a piece of 1" square tubing to fill the gap between the strut channel and tail gate. I was going to make the back surface flush with the rear cross brace, but I decided to leave it recessed under the square tubing.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Here are a couple of more shots of the riser.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

very nice

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I started on my wheel tubs last weekend. I decided to make these out of fiberglass. I'm making the plug out of pine, and will use that to cast my mold. I little more sanding and painting, and this should be ready to start the fiberglass work. The depth is 2-1/4" x 5.5" high.

I had found a set of steel tubs, but I would have to cut away about half of the height, due to the bed depth loss. Besides, I'm not planning on doing any heavy hauling. So the fiberglass is a cheaper and easier option.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

nice buck you made, those look real good.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Hey Im glad something I did was helpful but honestly I must admit I got the Idea from another forum member. Your build looks awesome.

Maybe you already said it and I missed it, but I was wondering what you were soaking your frame in. I know a Molasses and Water bath will remove rust over a week or two. I've done it myself on a few things.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Really nice build!! Great documentation. I especially like the wheel tubs. Great idea. It's amazing how the months click off when you have something like this going. Keep it up. dug

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Bartman / Dug224,

Thanks for the comments! I appreciate the great resource this site is for ideas.

On the frame, I used vinegar and water, but it flash rusts quickly. I finished cleaning off the frame with phosphoric acid. The product I used was Kleen Strip Phosphoric Prep & Etch. Don't let it dry on the frame overnight, rinse with water. It forms a coating much like Pine rosin if it drys on the metal, and that is a royal pain to remove. Both ways are best in hot weather. In hind sight, I should have paid someone to sandblast the frame. I was just too cheap . . . LOL

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

3 day weekend and not much progress on the truck. I lost the most of two days at work. I did get the tear drops welded on the bed sides. They actually came with the bed sides when I bought them.

I also got the pieces for my front bed mounts cut, but I did not get a chance to finish them.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I got both front bed brackets finished. I just need to get a couple of bolts to hold them together with the top brackets. I should be able to get to this wrapped up and welded to the frame this weekend. I'm using the remaining S10 polyurethane body mounts that I bought.

This time I used vinegar to clean the hard scale off of the surface of the brackets. This usually takes about three days, but I used boiling water with the vinegar. It took about three hours instead. There is a light rust on the surface in the picture. I forgot to neutralize it with baking soda. I threw them back in the vat for a few minutes and rinsed them back off with baking soda and water.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Starting to hack up a perfectly good pair of fenders. Off on another crazy tangent. After months of looking, I finally found the tail lights that I wanted to go with. These are actually beehive marker lights.

I'm starting to rough in the holes to partially embed them into the fenders. I've seen several trucks on the internet where this was done. I think that it will compliment the look of the hood vents and exhaust tips.