Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Thank you! It was a lot of effort.

I wanted dark saddle everything, but usually you get dark brown, brown or a different tinge of dark saddle whenever you order something online.

I went to Top Flight Automotive and ordered their corvette dark saddle vinyl paint and painted door panels, dash pads, boots and anything else that it worked on. I also took that vinyl paint/dye and had some auto paint matched from it. I painted the column, and all interior seat brackets with this and then clear coated everything. Fyi, Rustoleum crystal clear paint was far superior to the expensive auto paint I had purchased.

The carpet is ACC dark saddle, and the seat material is 72 dark saddle from SMS auto fabrics in Canby, OR. Sadly, the seat belts I ordered do not match very well... not sure what the plan there is yet. I didn't want to try and refurbish old belts, or pay for it to be done so the options are not great.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

I am wrapping up some engine compartment items before I add the front clip.
I purchased a larger booster/master cylinder set up from a local vendor, and it did not cross my mind that my support brackets coming off of the booster and master cylinder would no longer fit. Is there a consensus that we actually need these brackets?

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Thanks for the reply, ...Well the effort has paid off. Best compliment I can give is I am going to try and copy some of what you have done.....I also went with a bigger booster same problem, I think there might be a brace for the 3/4 ton trucks. I cut a 2" piece of stainless 1x1 tubing, polished and attached under lower brace at the firewall, with longer bolt, not the best solution. But not in a place you can see too well.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Thank you, I appreciate that. :)

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Wiring...

Almost finished with my engine compartment, I integrated the MSD and double checked all of the other connections. I have a few grounds to add, and some heat wrap to apply on the main harness running behind the engine.

Tranny cooler lines are installed finally, and I need to finish the fuel line to the carb. Tomorrow I need to finish up the stereo wiring that will be hidden behind the rear side panels. After that I feel good about testing everything with both batteries installed.

Praying for no fires. Lol.
Sorry about the upside down & sideways pictures.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Purchased a 12" slim subwoofer.
I'll build a box on the backside of the side panel. Here are a couple of examples I am looking at.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Never enough time in the day.
I was able to set time aside to cut & buff my drivers door and get it bolted on. I'm still drinking with some gap issues. The door is to tight against the body at the jam. There doesn't seem to be any more forward adjustment. Seems odd. I also had to put three shims behind the striker plate on the jam... still catching the door latch funny. Doors are original to the Blazer.

At least the passenger side is done.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

You probably have these specs....several posts from "lks dcvn" on Blazer tub, shims and alignment. I don't remember exactly what I did but I had the hard top on, which is supposed to help. Good luck. The devil is in the details.....The measurements are in hundredths, I think, just to add another level of confusion.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Thank you for sharing these.
I have seen one of them, but not the others. Very helpful.
I'll do some measurements tonight. One small chip so far... sad face.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Thank you! Yes, I have to pick some up this week.
I don't have a top, so I will have to do my best. :)

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

I started fresh tonight, I had no patience after work yesterday.

The door gaps look better. I need to mess with the body mount shims before the front clip goes on.

My female dog ate one of my trim pieces... and I found a small velcro sanding block in my door.

I think I can spend days screwing with the gaps, they aren't perfect, but I'm not sure if I can ever consider them "perfect"... the whole process is maddening.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

More pics

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Your gaps look pretty good in my opinion. These trucks weren’t exactly perfect from the factory so gaps can be tough.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

I made some time this weekend and I am feeling pretty close on the side panels. Since I'm running a 12" sub I am making sure to secure the panels to the bed sides thoroughly.
I'm using 1/4-20 nut inserts, they are working well.

I am working on making a cap for the bed rail, similar to the gray interior. I can put some 1/4-20 t-nuts in the wood that will allow me to bolt through the 5/16-18 inserts captured iunder the bed rail. This should give me a nice hidden fastener look. I have to use some fancy flush mount machine screws for the side panels. I am using truck cab dome lights for courtesy lights in the back. This stuff takes forever, the loop carpeting does not like metal shavings from drilling

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Good progress.

Is there a learning curve to installing nutserts or is that pretty straightforward? I need to add these on the roof of my 99 Suburban to install a rack system. Worried I'll bugger it up.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

I installed a nutsert on my RH reproduction bedside on my 1970 Blazer to match the other side. The installation was a breeze. I had never done one before, but it looked exactly like the factory installed one on the drivers side. There are some Youtube videos going over the process/

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Thank you!
No Learning curve at all, and after seeing your level of work, I am sure you will be perfect the first time. :)

Get a nice step bit, and mark the step you want to stop at with a noticeable color. Stop one step below where you think you need to be, check fitment there. Once you get two or three in, you will be good to go. Maybe practice on a small piece of sheet metal if you are unsure. Once I watched a few videos I was brave enough to do it. :)

I hope it works out easy for you.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/4...o&ref_=ast_bln

I own two rivnut setting tools. The Y shaped one and the red drill setter tool. Both are great and easy.

Also the best way to remove a failed rivnut or stripped one is a simple countersink bit.

Important!!!!!! Do not use impact drivers on fasteners!!! Use hand tools. You will screw up a rivnut or two. Every time I am in a hurry and fail to follow this advice, I end up screwing up a rivnut or two.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/srzzPJFQGFI

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Great advise. 👍
I am using the Y style.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

More pictures that I forgot to add onto my earlier update.

More wiring than I thought there would be in there, it was a fair amount of finesse to make it fit around the speaker.

I added a small computer fan for the amps as well. I will run it on a switch. These amps are marine grade, and supposedly I can put them in an enclosed space. I added the fan for insurance.

I shaped a piece of cedar to fill in the gap on the bed rail.

Fingers crossed it all works.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Getting closer.

Takes forever. Lol.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Thanks for the good words and the advice guys. You’ve emboldened me :)

Done before summer?

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Hopefully you had a plan for this but you should make some sort of cover to go over those amps. My Blazer is not exactly a dry atmosphere and I know for certain that water will get in the area where the amps are mounted.
Second, hopefully you have not screwed the amp chassis into the factory metal. It is best to isolate the amp chassis from direct contact with the vehicle chassis. You can get noise in the signal and in one instance in 2006, I had damage to some JL Audio amps when stray voltage killed a couple amps slowly. Once I isolated the metal amp rack from the actual car metal, the replacement amps were fine and the noise in the audio was gone. I still own those amps today.

In order to isolate the amp from the chassis you can mount a wooden board to the truck and mount the amps to the board. Easy peasey!!

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

This is why I love this site.
I appreciate the insight. I'm new to stereo installation. I will address this asap. Thank you!!

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

I was a Pro in the Car audio industry for years and now I am a major hobbyist. I will help whenever I can.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Yes sir, this is the goal. Wrap up the stereo wiring, install the front clip, bleed brakes, exhaust... add all of the fluids, install plug wires and a few misc items in the engine bay. Not much to do besides those items.

I hope I am breaking everything in smoothly this summer... probably need to renew my triple A. Lol.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Looks awesome, I really like the sandal interior. I can't wait untill my finish list is that short.

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Thanks buddy, appreciate it!

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Just checking to see if you have wore the tires out yet. The paint is awesome, are you worried about the paint chipping at the rocker area when it's finished and your driving it.

7D2N

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

Thanks for checking in. :)

I wish! I plan on pushing hard this weekend, hope to start it the first week of June.
Thanks for the kinds words! The paint has a lot of orange peel, but other than that, it is my favorite color.

Rockers, yes, I am concerned. I plan on doing some sort of clear plastic protector from the woodgrain trim down once I get it on.

I did get the brakes wrapped up, and I had a bad sub that had to be switched out along with some other wiring tidying. Small wins!

I'll do a proper update early next week.
I hope you all have a great weekend!!!

Re: 1972 Build thread.
 

that is beautiful, love the color too.