Project Ants Marching 1965 C10 Short Step
 

Needed a project thread name and my first project was to exterminate about a billion ants that had infested this thing so hence Ants Marching.

Bought it from craigslist a few weeks ago. First is brakes and suspension, next is interior (and maybe floors and rockers), and eventually new drivetrain.

Re: Project Ants Marching 1965 C10 Short Step
 

While I'm researching brakes and suspension, I've been ripping out the interior to kill ants and getting rid of the objectionable (to me) flat black paint somebody liberally doused various bits with. Found more rust--with the ants--must be a rare species of rust-eating ants because there are no french fries.

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I'm looking to go to a two tone blue and white theme and get rid of the black. Did some experimenting and found Rustoleum Biscuit Appliance Epoxy is pretty close to the stock color and less than $4 a can. Still have to do the light surrounds, accent color on the grill letters, and mirrors. I'm thinking of painting the roof the same color but will think a bit more before going that far. Probably will get the wheels too when they are off for brakes.

I'm sure I've not painted this exactly how the factory did it. I'm not concerned (Rustoleum-obviously!) There are great threads about it. And I may have to put some black back on behind the grill for contrast, but it was easier to go all white first than figure out where the transition needed to be since the body color option was already gone. I'll also repaint the bumpers to match.

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Grill work.

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Now the good part: brakes and suspension plan and questions.

Been researching CPP, ECE (my first choice), and POL. I like ECE for all the American made stuff, but struggling with the $premium. POL is 10% off everything before 10/1 and sounds at least like the spindles are of equal quality. Not sure about the rubber bits, but the $500 in savings will go a long way towards more parts.

Here is the thoughts:
1. 6 lug 2.5" drop spindle disc brake kit (hope the rotors fit behind the wheels which I believe to be Wheel Vintiques 15x8)
2. Booster & Master cal
3. SS brake lines
4. Front sway bar
5. Upper and lower control arm cross shafts
6. Maybe idler and pitman arm. Manual steering will have to stay until engine upgrade later. Not messing with PS on the 230 (been there, done that before.)

Now the drop question. I don't want it to be "slammed", but definitely lower for a cool look and improved cruising.
The truck sits level now. The front looks like it can drop 4" easy (2.5 spindle plus 1.5 more spring). The rear does not look like it can take 6" by a long shot. Is it possible the current springs have sagged and a new drop spring might not be a true drop (or even a lift?)

I'm thinking of just ordering a 2" drop block kit for the rear, going with the 2.5" spindle on the front, and maybe cutting a bit off the front if I want more. I can add lowering springs to the rear later if the 2" blocks are not enough.

This complicates shock ordering. I think I need a shorter shock for the front no matter what (2.5" or 4" depending) but can stick with the current rear shocks with 2" blocks. Then I would need shorter rear shocks if I added lowering springs later. Is this right?

Re: Project Ants Marching 1965 C10 Short Step
 

Good idea with the grille. Looks like you got some nice steel wheels, too.

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Nice starting point, even with the ants and the minor rust.

Shocks - For the front, if you just do the 2.5" spindles, then you can use stock length shocks as the spindle does not effect the distance between the mounting points. If you cut a coil on the spring, then could use a upper shock mount relocation to keep the stock length shock. I believe that ECE and many others sell a set of those brackets.

For the rear, stock length is fine until you get to a 4" drop spring. Then you need to look at mounting point relocation, not just shock length. There are many ways to do this. Just search the forums for how it can be done.

Re: Project Ants Marching 1965 C10 Short Step
 

Front end transformed. The white is a bit creamier than I imagined when all put together, but once I paint the bumper to match it will look better.

I also pulled the trigger on a big stack of brake and suspension parts this afternoon....

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Very nice! :chevy:

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Much better than the black.

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FYI for those interested.

I ordered about $1400 worth of brakes and suspension from Performance Online yesterday (online order.) They have 10% off everything until October 1st which helped sell me.

It just so happened that the paper catalog I paid them $5 for showed up in the mail a few hours after I placed the order. In the paper catalog is a more complete brake kit (including the booster and master cylinder) than is listed online and at a lower price than buying them separately. One phone call today and they sent me a refund, but I can't find that big kit listed online. There may be other things like that. The $5 investment in the catalog saved me $62 (with the 10% discount.)

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Got a pile of parts in the mail!

Discs, calipers and spindles are all assembled but I feel like I should probably paint the calipers and spindles right?

Guess I need to blow them apart anyway?

Re: Project Ants Marching 1965 C10 Short Step
 

along for the ride on this build! like how you changed up the front end. Really wanting to swap my front end to disc brakes as well and stay 6 lug. Keep up the great work.

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Looks great.

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Finally got some time this weekend to make some progress. Think I'm gonna rename this Project Rustoleum.

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More

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I have a good feel for reassembly of this side and then repeat on the other side but not so much for the booster/mcyl part.

I bought pre-bent SS brake lines for the front. I'm wondering if I should replace the lines before I put this side back together? Or just wait for the booster install?

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You're going to have to drill holes to mount that booster with the supplied booster bracket.

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If I buy one of your brackets, I won't have to drill holes, but what happens to the length of the pushrod that comes with my POL booster/master cylinder combo? Any different that what I have to do already?

Re: Project Ants Marching 1965 C10 Short Step
 

Nice looking truck. I am going to enjoy watching you build it!

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With m y booster bracket, all of the factory mounting holes are used to securely attack the booster/master to the pedal bracket on the inside of the firewall. This is very important. When you drill new holes to mount a booster that is not designed for the vehicle, you do not get that secure connection to the pedal bracket. The pushrod should just need to be shortened and connected to the pedal. Just trying to help people upgrade their brakes correctly and safely.

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Thanks. I'll send a PM.

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Slow progress with only getting an hour or two at a time to work on it and learning something new every step of the way. But progress nonetheless.

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With the 2.5 inch drop spindles I want another inch or 1.5 of drop tops. I cut off 0.5 inch of height which was less than a full coil. Theoretically will give 1 more inch.

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Chipping away at it. There were so many alignment shims on the passenger side the new nylock nuts don't fit (not enough thread protrusion to get to the nylon.)

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I cut off 1/2" of height on the front coils which is about 3/4 of a coil. I think it is too low although there are no shocks in these pictures. Since I need shorter shocks anyway and the rear springs are pretty much toast I just ordered a matched set of 1" and 3" front and rear drop springs and shocks to go with the 2.5 drop spindles and 2" drop blocks I have. Hopefully this works out with a bit more room for the 235/70/15 tires.

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On to the booster and master while waiting for the springs and shocks. This is how to install the CaptainFab bracket upside down. It is a nice piece and a great fit (once rightside up.) Looks like the shaft will be perfect fit without cutting.

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Got the booster fully mounted and the linkage hooked up. It was very fiddly getting the linkage put together as there isn't much room between the brake pedal and the steering column. But in the end it was a perfect fit with no cutting with the CaptainFab bracket and pieces supplied with the kit. If I had used the booster bracket it came with it would have been too short!

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Got the new 1" drop springs swapped in and they gained me back about an inch which is perfect. New front shocks installed as well.

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Have a mysterious situation where the passenger toe (out) is way out of whack after swapping in the new spring. Didn't change anything else. Disconnected the spindle end of the (new) tie rod and the upper ball joint stud, swapped the springs, and put it back together. Took all the adjustment out of the tie rod to get it back close. I swear it wasn't like that after putting it all together the first time (with the cut springs.) When I built the tie rods I made them the same length as the old ones. The steering box is centered. I have no idea what could have changed.

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Love the new stance! It looks in your pictures that they were both towed out a little. Hard to tell from the angle of the pics.

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Thanks. I haven't actually done the rear yet. The current "stance" is from the saggy/heated rear springs. I have 3" drop springs and 2" drop blocks to go in soon.

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When you change the spring height and therefore the ride height, you effect the camber. Any effect on camber has a direct effect on toe. This is why when you align the truck it is always camber,caster and then toe. I would bet if you get it aligned and ask for a pre and post alignment printout, you will see a big difference in the before and after camber measurements

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Frigid weather slowed me down, but finally got it on the road today!

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Sunny and 60 degrees today! Perfect day to be back on the road.

Gotta get to the rear springs and drop blocks now.

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Truck is coming along! I just ordered a disc brake kit for mine as well. Should be here tomorrow. I can't wait!

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This was the plan: 2.5" drop spindles up front with 1" drop spring. 3" drop spring in the rear with 2" drop block for a 3.5/5 static drop. Despite conventional wisdom that says drop the rear 2" more than the front, that was too low in the rear for several reasons.

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Pulled the block out and it is perfect with 3.5" in front and 3" in rear. Loving the new stance! Drives great too.

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The upper bolt on the rear track bar is not coming out without a serious fight and I dont have a replacement so the original one is still in. Thinking about rear shock relocators too.

Also still have a front sway bar to install.

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Looking good! Love the stance.