Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

After being campaigned for a little while to showcase our StreetGrip products, our Squarebody is going back under the knife and will be receiving our brand new Coil-Over 4-Link kit!
Stay tuned for more installation photos and videos and be sure to check out www.ridetech.com for more details!

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Love that seat. Any info you can share on it?

Excited to see the 4-link coilover.

I'm saving right now for your standard street grip kit for my project.

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Looks like the one LMC sells, http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=77

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

awesome. thanks.

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Its a full TMI interior kit. I think its a really nice setup and the biggest benefit is that it all comes in boxes ready to install. We have it in our Squarebody and in our 72 C10.
I drove the 72 to Texas and back and never had one complaint about the way the seat felt.

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Got the truck to the shop and got everything set up and read to disassemble. Going to get it all torn down and give you guys a step by step run down of how the kit goes together. Feel free to ask questions as we go along, I will do my best to answer them as best as possible.

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We always use the wheels and tires as an added safety measure.

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Given that the truck was previously our StreetGrip R&D truck, the components we are removing may look different than stock components but the installation process will remain the same as OE parts.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Once we had the bed removed and out of the way, we began to remove most of the factory rear suspension. To help keep the rear end aligned (and to keep you from chasing it all over the place) it helps to keep one of the rear leafs in place as you install the opposite side.

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Using the template provided, locate the alignment hole. I marked it with a paint marker so you could see which of the holes we use.

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Once the alignment hole has been located, trim the c-notch template as instructed. You can use magnets or tape to keep the template in place. Use a center punch to mark your holes before drilling.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Question: how will this translate to those who have a 67-72 leafer? Obviously not a straight bolt-in, but would this be available later?

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

We actually have a bolt on coilover kit for the 63-72 platform as well. That particular kit has trailing arms instead of the 4-link pictured above. Check out the link below to the components we manufacture for those years.
http://www.ridetech.com/products/sus.../product-3297/

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

After using the template to mark where the notch would go, we used an angle grinder to remove material from the frame.

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To prevent rust on the freshly cut frame, we hit it with a little spray paint and then test fitted the notch.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Once we verified fitment on the notch, we marked the multiple holes that need to be drilled to bolt in the notch. We first marked the hole location with a center punch, drilled a pilot hole then finished it off with a 7/16 bit.
Once the holes were drilled, we applied a thin coat of paint to the bare metal and installed the notch with the supplied hardware.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Here is a picture we took of all the rear components before we started the install. I figured you guys may want to see what all of they look like all laid out.
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After the C-notch was bolted in on both sides, we installed the rear sway bar mount.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Very nice set up!!

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

The next step in the installation process was to remove the factory leaf spring brackets from the frame. Because the factory mount is riveted to the frame, we found the best way to remove it was to cut an "+" pattern in the head of the rivet with an angle grinder then use an air chisel to finish it off.

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Once the head of the rivet is removed, we used a pry bar to pop the bracket off of the frame. We then drilled the holes out to accept the hardware, dressed up the frame with an angle grinder and applied some paint for rust protection.

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After the paint dried, we used the hardware included in the kit to attach the front bar bracket.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Thanks man! We sure do appreciate it!

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Nice. Will watch this one for sure.

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Nice thorough job on writing up the installation.

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Thanks guys. I really do appreciate the feedback!

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

The next component that needed to be installed was the coil over/ 4-bar bracket to the axle tube. This bracket was pretty straight forward as well. There are small upright tabs made onto the bracket and these tabs align it exactly where it needs to be on the factory spring perch. The bracket is held into place using some pretty heft Grade 8 hardware including washers and lock nuts.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

After the mounting bracket is installed and torqued down, the next step is to install the upper and lower bars. These bars will come preset to the correct length from Ridetech so they simply bolt on to the front and rear brackets.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Other than the rear sway bar, there are only a few other components left to complete the rear. The next pieces we installed were the single adjustable coil overs included with the kit. RideTech coil-overs employ monotube shock technology that is used on high end road race cars. The benefits of monotube shock technology include more responsive damping and better oil control. With 24 different settings available on each coil over, Ridetech allows you to fine tune the ride quality to your liking using rebound management. (Plus, Ridetech has a true 1 million and 1 mile warranty on all of their shocks)

For initial setup we chose to set our coilovers up at 12 clicks on the adjustment knob. We did this by turning the knob all the way to the right (full stiff) then turning them back 12 clicks to the left. From this 12 click setting, we can adjust for a firmer or softer ride depending on how the truck feels. ( I will try and go into more detail of adjusting the shock settings once we get the truck on the road).

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Looks great. Im curious how much different it rides than your leaf setup. And if there are any real cons to it.

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Thanks!
Right now we are waiting to get a good alignment on the truck then we plan on putting some miles on it. The first initial drive went really well, the truck had a smooth ride, the suspension is nice a quiet so overall I'm really happy with the way the truck rides. Unfortunately, between the wet roads and the truck not having a proper alignment it was difficult to put the truck through its paces and see what it is capable of. I hope to be able to post some photos and videos of the truck on the track here in the next week or so.
I will keep you guys posted for sure.

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

To wrap up the back end of the truck, there were only a few small items that needed to be installed. The panhard bar is pretty straight forward as it's length is also preset right out of the box.
After the panhard bar was bolted up, we installed the rear MuscleBar, end-links and axle brackets. The end-link mounting brackets are the only components in the kit that need to be welded on.
Before welding the brackets in place, we installed the Delrin sleeve onto the bar, and then the bushing. The Delrin sleeve will minimize binding throughout the motion of the bar, it also virtually eliminates the noise associated with poly or rubber bushings.

After we have the MuscleBar in place we double check our spacing to ensure there is no interference throughout the range of motion. Once the lateral spacing it set, we mock up the bracket location using the end-links and mark the axle tube. With our location verified, we used an angle grinder to remove the paint from the axle tube, put the brackets back in place and tack welded them to the tube. DO NOT do your finish welding with the end-links still attached to the bracket as the heat from welding will melt them. Simply unbolt the end-link and rotate it out of the way.

Once the bracket had cooled, we put a little paint on it to prevent rust and bolted everything back up.

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As a side note, we decided to flip the bracket over and install longer end-links on the production kits. The new design will allow for more articulation of the MuscleBar and less end-link binding. I will post a picture of the new components when I have the truck back on the lift.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

I would love to test drive this set up!!! I have a static 4-6 drop on my 66 trailing arm truck,,,,,any suggestions??

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

The only modification left to do on the rear end of the truck before re-installing the bed was to clearance the bed floor cross member per the measurements in the instructions and apply a rust preventative coating.

Once the coating was dry, the bed can go back on.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

For sure! We have a similar coil over kit for your truck as well that utilizes a trailing arm style suspension. Check out the link below, it will take you to the product page on our website.
http://www.ridetech.com/products/sus.../product-3296/

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

After the rear was buttoned up, we put the bed back on and got it all bolted back down.
Just an FYI, the rear bed bolts back by the bumper bracket were a complete pain in the butt! If anyone has a better suggestion for how to get those off other than 20min with an open end wrench, I would be glad to know. It seemed like no matter what I tried, I couldn't get anything to fit in there.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

I'm not in the market for something like this but I wanted to say how cool this is! Lots of detail and thought put into this kit for sure!

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Moving on to the front.

Removal of the factory components is pretty straight forward. Because our StreetGrip kit utilizes the same spindles found in the new coil over kit we chose to keep all of those components intact for this build.
Once you have the vehicle supported, remove the brake calipers and tie them up out of the way. We use a little bailing wire to secure them towards the front of the truck.
Once the brake components have been removed, support the lower control arm with some sort of jack. Because we were using a 2 post lift, we used a transmission jack under the arm. With the jack compressing the spring, we removed the castle nuts from the spindles as well as the outer tie rod ends.
Side note: Put the castle nut back on the tie rod end that way you don't spend 15min trying to find it because you forgot where you put it.
With the castle nut removed from the upper and lower ball joint, we took a metal chain and ran it through the coil, looped it around and secured the ends together. This will keep the coil spring from shooting out when you start to relieve tension.
Using the floor jack and some caution, we began to slowly let pressure off of the spring. Once we got to a certain point, we use a pickle fork to break the ball joint free from the spindle. Once the tension is undone, remove the chain and the spring will come out. We have used a spring compressor in the past. If you decide to go that route, be sure and use a quality tool. Its not worth loosing the use of your fingers or hands to save $20.


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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Once you have all of the factory suspension components removed, the next step is to remove the factory coil spring bucket brace.

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There are 4 factory rivets that will need to be removed in order to install our upper coilover mount. To remove these, we cut a (+) pattern in the top using a small angle grinder. Once the rivets had been cut, we used an air chisel to knock them the rest of the way off.

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So I got a little spray paint happy and went ahead and cleaned up the bare metal areas and hit them with a coat of paint BEFORE I realized we needed to trim out the upper spring bucket. For purposes of this build thread, I'm going to say it was intentional so that you could see the yellow marker where it needs to be clearanced out. This will allow the new upper mount to sit flush on the spring bucket.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Once everything is cleaned up (and repainted) you can go ahead and install the new upper coilover mount using the hardware supplied in the kit.


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There are 4 bolts with washers and lock nuts that secure the mount to the top of the spring bucket.

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

After the upper coil over mount was installed, we began putting on the lower control arms.

It is hard to tell in the picture but the control arms are labeled for their correct side and the lower ball joints and cross shafts are already installed when you get the components.

Using the factory control arm u-bolts, we installed the lower arms to the frame. The Delrin bushings in the StrongArms allow the piece to move freely up and down (reducing stiction and noise) even when the u-bolts have been torqued down.

Be sure to pay attention to the instructions when you install the arms. Indexing holes have been machined into the lower cross shafts so that you properly locate the arm during installation. These indexing holes will ensure that the wheel and tire are centered in the wheel well.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Awesome kit! Is this available for 88-98 trucks, or in the works?

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Thanks man! I appreciate the feedback.
It has been discussed. We are working on a 99-06 kit right now. If we put the 88-98 kit in the works, I will be sure and let you know.

Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

After the lower control arms are installed, we went ahead and began working on the uppers.
The upper control arms will not have the ball joints installed when you get them. All of the hardware is included. We went ahead and put the ball joints on before we installed the arms.


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Before placing the upper control arms on the mounting studs, we went ahead and installed the caster slugs. The kit will include the standard caster slug with the number 2 on it. On the driver side, the cross shaft needs to be turned so that the Air Spring Logo is facing towards the tire with the arrow pointing towards the front of the truck. The caster slug will be installed with the number 2 facing out. Re-insert the alignment shims in the same stack and the same location that they were when the front suspension was disassembled.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

On the passenger side, ensure that the Air Spring Logo is facing towards the wheel and the arrow is pointing towards the front of the truck. On this side, the caster slugs install a little differently. The #2 will be facing towards the engine with the number on the right side of the mounting stud.


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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Before installing the front coil over, add just enough preload with the shock fully extended to keep the spring from coming loose. This can be done by tightening the spanner nut on the shock body until the spring is held in place.

With the upper StrongArm installed, the coilover can be attached to the lower control arm and mounted to the upper bracket through the spring bucket. Preload can be added later to set your ride height.

Once the coil over is installed and supporting the lower StrongArm, the spindle, disc brake assembly and outer tie rod end can all be re-attached to the truck.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

After we had the front end buttoned up, it was time to install the front frame bracing included in the kit.

These components are designed to take the flex out of the front of the truck and add support to the steering box area. The braces will give the truck a better feel through corners and remove the steering box flex under hard cornering. The cross brace has Heim ends and lock nuts for adjustability.

Installation of these pieces is pretty straight forward. The instructions will tell you what bolts will need to be removed and where holes will need to be drilled. Just like the c-notch, we used a center punch and a pilot hole before drilling to final size.

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Re: Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install
 

Once the bolts have been removed per the instructions, the components can be mocked up and the holes drilled.
After those steps are completed, you can move forward with installing the braces.

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