Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...I7z5FQXSIiR794

It seems like I just parked this truck yesterday. How time flies. This was my Grandfather's truck that I've had since high school, and the first vehicle that I learned to drive when I was a kid. I drove it for a short while after high school, but I was never satisfied with the straight six. I didn't have the extra money when I was young to rebuild this truck.

But now that I'm older and fatter, and need to get off the couch, my wife thought it was a good idea to suggest that I rebuild it. She didn't know the monster, or money pit, that she was creating. I had a friend that suggested that I use an S10 frame. So I found a extended cab S10, and got to work.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...Rpxpwc_PgmYVmz

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Sorry, trying to get the hang of posting the pictures.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...Rpxpwc_PgmYVmz

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Let's try this for the pictures.
:chevy:

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Welcome to the site. Good deal on keeping the truck in the family. Makes for great stories.
Jeff

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Ah, that worked.

I've picked up a lot of good ideas on this forum, so I figured that I would try to give a little back. Thanks to all of those, whose posts I have followed!

I'm not bashful to say that I screwed up with which truck frame to look for. But it really was not a big deal with splitting and shortening the S10 extended cab frame. Plus it made it easier to handle to de-rust. I marked lines a known distance apart across the frame joint, and cut the welds loose where the front and rear frame pieces joined.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Thanks Sim6! I appreciate the welcome.

Yeah, we used to play on this truck as kids, and climb over the hood and roof to get in the barn loft. Karma's a *****, now I'm having to fix all of the dents!

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

First major find on tearing down the S10 was the driver side upper control arm bolt holes. I had to weld these up and re-drill. I used the new control arm as a drill guide, as this was a perfect fit for the drill needed for the new bolting spline fit. I repaired the holes one at a time, so that I could keep this lined up as true as possible.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Here are a few shots of the frame. After cutting off the 7" of the rear frame section and welding the frame back together, I painted the frame with epoxy primer and top coated it with the gloss 2K Ceramic Chassis Paint. I still have the brackets for the cab, running boards, and bed to add. But I will go back and touch up the frame prior to the final build.

I figure another 100x on and off with the cab should do it. I went with the Wilwood front brakes, and Scarebird rear brake brackets with the '85 Cadillac rotors and calipers. I went with all polyurethane suspension bushings.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Can you post the details about your rust removal process?

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Wow, nice work on the frame. Looks great.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Chuckmc8,

On the rust removal process, I used a couple of different methods, but honestly, if I had to do it over again, I would have sent it to a blaster. This process was slow, but works best when you can submerge the parts completely. With small parts these methods are great. But these methods do little for removing any paint, and beware on fine threaded parts. The threads will be eaten away if they stay in the solution very long. I found this out on my door hinge threads. For all of the methods below, hot days are best. Doing this at temperatures below 70°F is useless.

First method I used was 1:4 mixture of vinegar and water. I had some heavily rusted parts and this took about three days, but came out like new. You need to neutralize the parts after treatment with baking soda and water. You will need to immediately dry. Alcohol works good to displace the water, or blow it off with compressed air. I also saw something on the internet of adding salt, but I did not try that. It is suppose to increase the acidity. I would not use this on cast iron.

Second method I used was phosphoric acid. I found this at Home Depot in the form of concrete "Prep and Etch", by Klean Strip. It runs about $16 per gallon. I also used about the same mix ratio. I was also spraying this on parts that were too big to submerge. Do NOT let this dry on parts overnight. Wash it down at the end of the day with water. It forms a film I would best describe like Pine rosin. It created more work to get rid of that. You can also spray the parts and cover is plastic wrap, to keep it from drying out. Otherwise, I was spraying about every 30 minutes. This works good on cast iron, because unlike vinegar or muriatic acid, this converts the rust into iron phosphate. Muriatic acid and vinegar gets into the pours and can keep eating if it is not properly neutralized. The phosphoric acid will leave a white powdery substance on the surface. You can use a wire brush to remove this before painting.

I've seen on the net about using molasses and water, but I have not tried that. Again, that requires full submergence of the parts. There is also the muriatic acid and water, which is more aggressive, but it rusts immediately after. I did this a little when I was in a hurry. But I neutralized it and washed back over it with the phosphoric acid solution to get rid of the flash surface rust.

I hope this helps!

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

This is the motor that I picked up for this build. It is a 2004 GTO LS1 engine with 4L60E transmission with 128k miles. I didn't realize that this was an front sump oil pan. I had to pick up a rear sump pan for a H3.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Rough fitment of the cab and front end

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I used part of the original radiator support bracket and fabricated an angle iron frame to support a Champion Cooling MC340 radiator. If anyone wants a 3d Solidworks model, go here:
http://www.3dcontentcentral.com/cont...tentType=Model

I liked the look of Bartman's design of his support bracket. I figured that I would design something similar.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I used new polyurethane bushings and some of the original S10 cab mount parts. I mounted the cab about 3" over the frame.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Looking good!

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I had to remove both lower cowl panels and rocker panels. I also cut out the cowl vent and firewall. I wanted to save the look of the upper portion of the firewall. I started filling holes and welding in the patch panels.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Looking good, just curious, how long did the truck sit for?

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I sealed the cowl vent and fabricated my firewall. I did not like the look of the ones online, that had the wide recess. I wanted to keep the recess tighter to the engine, and give me more foot room in the cab.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I am ashamed to say . . . I parked it in 1980. I thought that I would park it outside until I could finish my shop. Life happens I guess.

I bought my S10 frame donor in April 2013. A big storm damaged our house the next month, so all that I accomplished the first summer was getting the S10 body off of the frame.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Here are a couple of shots of the transmission cover that I fabricated. I could have tucked it in a little closer to the transmission, but I was anticipating of having to add a little support on the bottom side. No worries. I have a couple of ideas that I will play with, when I get serious on the inside of the cab.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I picked up these new inner fenders. I liked the look of these, but they were a bit expensive. These are built for the original frame. I had to do a little of cutting and fitting to clear the S10 A-frames. I only lost a couple of the louvers. These will really add to the look of the engine compartment. I also found a set of stainless LS S10 conversion headers on Ebay. The price was cheaper that other carbon steel shorty conversion headers that I found, and actually very well built.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Dam, nice work! Your firewall is slick. I really dig those inner fender wells too, where did they come from? The under hood of your truck is going to look great.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Thanks Hussy!
I got the inner fenders at Premier Street Rods.
https://www.premierstreetrod.com/det...Apron_Kit.html

I also found them at Chevs of the 40's.
https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail...Apron_Kit.html

Looks like Chevsofthe40s.com is a few dollars cheaper.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I had to repair both cab corners. I skim coated the back of the cab with AllMetal, and then endless hours of block sanding. I really like the AllMetal and the way it sands out. But in the summer heat, it kicks off rather quickly.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Got a crazy idea in my head to put a third brake light over the back window. I have seen them mounted below the window, but I figured it would look unique above. There is not much room there between the inside and outside metal. I removed the dome light, and I am going to leave an access cover to get to the light if necessary. I have an idea of adding a headliner console that will cover this up.

I first looked at buying a 3rd brake light kit, but for the price, I figured that I could fabricate my own cheaper. I purchased 1/2" thick plexiglass and a couple of 8" LED lights on Amazon. But I did not realize that the lights were coming from China. I got impatient and found a 12" LED light at my local WalMart that is really bright.

I fabricated a metal frame and installed it in the cab. I mounted the frame approximately 5° to 10° pointing slightly downward to try to minimize any leakage. I will need to seal the plexiglass to the frame upon final installation.

The made the plexiglass with a shoulder where it would bottom out when installed. I made a mistake of using a power sander that got the plex too hot. It had small check marks that were difficult to get out. I re-cut the plexiglass shoulders to allow a little more surface for me to skin, to clean up the checks. I ended up using a small wood plane that was set to a fine cut, to profile the plexiglass to the contour of the cab. After that, I hand sanded the faces with different grits of sand paper, until I finished it off with 600 grit. I flame polished the faces after that to a clear finish.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Here are a couple more shots of the installation.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Nice work, looks really good!

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I installed the large Autoloc bear claw latches. I temporarily glued a couple of washers to the on the back side of the bearclaw latch to space the latch about .09" just to the outside of the window channel. I wanted to keep a little space between the latch and the window channel. It is close, but the bearclaw slide lock will just clear the inside of the door skin if this is spaced right.

I set the installation plate about 3/16" inset from the raised border around the door panel to clear the bearclaw tips, when the door closes. I added a 3/16" thick plate on top of the installation plate to reconstruct the border, and to add a little additional support. I'm not necessarily going to use the door panel, but it made sense to build it back up. I still have a little of cosmetic work to do, but I had to get this primed due to the rain forecast later in the week. The problems of not having an enclosed garage.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Next was the door post. I cut out the original latch and I flattened out the metal fold at the inner most edge, by the weatherstrip channel. (hope that makes sense) I bent a 90° on a piece of 16 gauge, and cut it to fit where the original door post striker plate mount was. I marked the hole location. Go thru the inside of the door thru the BC latch to mark, and drill a clearance hole for the post. Make sure you leave ample clearance for the post adjustment.

I used the Autoloc BC installation post mount, and just bolted it on the back side of the 16 gauge plate. I test fit the clearance of the door to the post recess, and adjusted the post to test the latch. Once everything was positioned properly, I started welding and finishing the recess. I centered the door post mount to the clearance hole, and tack welded the post mount in place.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Nice job on all the work you've done on the cab/latches. Look real good.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

The metal of both doors needed replacement. I was nervous about cutting and welding this long of section. I cut and fitted the inner door skin first. Then I welded it in. I was well pleased of how this come out. One more door to go.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

hey man, really nice work so far. I take it this isn't your first build? attention to detail is great, which is nice to see.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

This is my concept for the door latch mechanism. I figured that I will leave this for a winter project. I was thinking of using a flush mount door handle with this.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

99 to Life,

Thanks and yes, this is my first build. And yes, I guess that I am a little OCD. This has really been a stress relieving diversion from my real job.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Nice work! I'll follow.

sub'd

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Excellent job. It's great to see a back yard build with this kind of detail.



Jim 52CrashTruck

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I figured that I would work on the dash this weekend as a change of pace from the doors. I want to smooth out the dash and get rid of the lines of the speaker grill and glove box door. I started filling some of the holes in the dash. I also want to go with a 2 din navigation/bluetooth/radio. I started making a raised center console to mount the radio, and I am playing with the idea of mounting an oval Dakota Digital Climate Control just below. When I get this fabricated, I will get this tacked in place and see if I really like the look before proceeding.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

I continued working on the center console this weekend. I varied a little from my concept design, in that I made the lower piece sides flush to the top radio frame. I used phosphoric acid to remove the black scale on the sheet metal. That usually takes about 30 minutes to one hour, if the outside temperature is above 90°F. The scale washes off with a water hose. I tried sanding it off before, but that is like sanding glass.

Re: Harold's '48 S10 LS1 Build
 

Nice fab work...Jim