Got one.
 

1975 Blazer. 350 with 400r turbo transmission.
was orange and has be repainted dark blue in the past. Nothing more than superficial rust on it as far as I can tell. when it got repainted someone obviously put some money into the body work.
Here's what it needs:
- New mechanism for the tail gate window
- Check up on some leaking transmission fluid.
- New ignition (works but key is old and worn)
- New seals for windows etc
- Tailpipes - current exhaust system stops after the mufflers.
- Removal and sale of $1400 18" rims and 35" tires and replacement with sensible 16" rims (self financing there).

So need recommendations for where to get this stuff. I am a COMPLETE noob at this blazer business. Checking out LMC per lowrodder chev advice. To get a new ignition it looks like a whole new steering column is that right?

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NICE!!! if keys worn you can get new cylinder from classic parts there good too. LMC has stuff but can be somewhat pricey but the catalog has some awesome breakdowns of whats what!!! I got a set of door and the ignition cylinders matching keys from classic parts. what kind of rims you got? in Bakersfield I believe a guy had 5 of the OG ralleys for our trucks. was asking $150 was on craigslist. i'll look up the link later.

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the rims i have are 18" rocks star XD' which are $1400 new and these are in excellent condition. I will sell / trade them in (need to as with these the thing doesn't fit under the carport). interested in the ralley's too

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oh ok I thought you wanted stocks. my truck has stock 15 inch ralleys, they came with a 4x4 cap in the rear and same cap up front minus the center for the hubs to stick out of. I decided I wanted to get 8 lug axles all the way around but 2 months prior to that I put brand new 35's on her. love the tires so i'll wait on the axle swap.

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ideally I do want stock wheels - the 18 inchers are on it now but will be changed out FOR the stock rims when i get em. just have to decide which ones to get hwihc is a big decision.

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oh and is it classicpartsUSA or classicparts that you got the door and ignition cylinders from?>

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Congrats! What is the ignition key doing? Falling out? The rear window crank isn't too bad a job.

Here's some 15" rally inspiration:

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yep that's the look i want. What are the tires 33"? I think maybe someone has lifted this one a bit in the past.

Here is the original spec sheet from the glove box and a couple more pics I took today. Looks like it was a Cheyenne model and crimson red initially with the 400 ci engine. Seller said it was 350 so who knows. In some pics you can see the red underneath the respray. Anything leap out from the pics?

The ignition key takes about 10 minutes of jiggling to get the steering lock off as it is sooo worn. i have ordered the new matching door and ignition cylinders.

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The rally inspiration pic is ALSO the grill i ideally want to get down the line. Does it have a specific name/title/style please?

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yeah judging from the blocks in the rear looks like yes been lifted, that and I don't think 35's would clear on a stock suspension. still not a bad looking blazer congrads again man

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The tires on the red/white truck are 33's. Thread here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=570325

That grill is available from LMC for $149.

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Where did you get those white rims from? Was it online or at a local store?

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I believe there stockers here is a pick of one

Attachment 1176045

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So do people paint them themselves or buy them in white?

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The truck is not mine. Those are stock 4x4 wheels painted white.

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mine came grey stock I was told by a blazer guy I know, your truck do what you want

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They do come grey stock although most will say rally silver or argent. What I meant was the owner of the red/white truck painted his white.

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Ahh got it. thanks guys for your info. There will be lots more brain picking over the coming weeks / months / years I anticipate.

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Aaaah CRAP! so i took it to the shop to get it fully checked over. Turns out that I overweighted the fact it has solid bodywork with no rust in my calculations, and I missed other stuff which is also costly. New seals needed practically everywhere in the driveline. Some poor welding of a glove on the frame round the steering box etc etc. Sooo by the time i get the stuff done that I can't do at home, I will end up paying probably $5.5k for the thing anyway. So much for keeping a low budget. Also the previous owner changed springs out at the front for the lift. I was hoping to just remove blocks to unlift it which is now out of the window.

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So i did some math and calculations and comparisons with vehicles for sale locally (I've been saving copies of EVERY craigslist ad for the last 8 months for 70 - 75 Blazers and Jimmys and I'm still pretty pleased compared to other stuff that is out there and has been available. I'll have the basis of something to fix up over the coming years as I learn about them. Looking forward to getting started. Just wanted to thank everyone for their advice over the past two weeks, and in advance for their advice for the next ten years.

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well any fullsize Jimmy/Blazers are real hard to find around here,that old, only know of one
I did rallies in flat black,don't they always look dirty(close up)
did the 78s in gloss,even dirty has a shine
I like those in white tho,next time

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So first changes made to the blazer. Removed the 35 inchers on the 18" Rockstar rims and replaced them with 15 x 8 smoothies which I painted white with 31 x 10.5 x 15 tires. This is going to be done in little bits so I now have to save up some cash to take the lift down a few inches so I know it will look a bit weird for a while. Also got new motor mounts, fuel lines, main transmission seal, torque converter cover, replaced all fluids and had the driveline, steering and brakes fully checked over. Starts, stops, turns and won't fall apart under me. Before and after.

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Soooo much better!

Do you want a stock suspension, or two inch lift, or ?

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looking good man your on your way

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I probably want to go to a 2 inch lift as I do like the slightly lifted look with stock wheels.
The back has blocks (look about 4 or 5 inches) and u bolts. Cut blocks, new U bolts at the back. I have yet to figure out exactly what this will entail in terms of steering and front suspension. though i do know that the springs were changed at the front so there will be that at least plus new shocks all round.

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Any updates on this bad boy?

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hmmm well it has been mostly status quo for a while as I prepare for the next large step (lowering to stock height) with some small items getting done. Summer in CA means top off though. That created some little bits of work. Such as finding the rust on the bed rails, which was sanded, sprayed with rust inhibitor, and primed. Changed the front diff seal. Removed the tailgate and ripped out the interior in the back and found a practically rust free bed. Attachment 1268208

Attachment 1268209

Attachment 1268210

Attachment 1268211

Under my desk I have new U bolts all round, urethane bushings for the sway bar, a new body mount kit and new Bilstein 4600 shocks. Front leaf springs still on order.

Cleaning and spraying the new roll bar with bedliner this weekend, and this will be bolted in next week. I am wondering if I can change out all the bodymounts myself or need a garage to do it?

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Also I took off the HEAVY tailgate, sold it and will replace it with a truck gate from pick n pull that I got for $30.

The two BIG decisions I made were :
1) To get a softtop for the thing rather than put the 200lbs top on and off.
2) To eventually get the exterior back to original color and Cheyenne trim (Crimson red / White sidebar) as opposed to the Matt Black bedliner look.

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Sweet yeah I know what u mean about the top I skipped taking mine off this year because of the PITA it is to do it looking good though

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I like what you are doing with this truck, nice to see an update. The soft tops are great, I'm rethinking one for my green truck. My only concern with one is the people who would cut it just to see what's in your truck. We have folk like that here in the "Heart of Dixie". I like your choice of colors.

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The truck would never be locked and I honestly can't see the top ever being rolled down on the sides except during rainstorms - when I wouldn't be using it anyway I wouldn't think. One of the benefits of living in a city where the signs have the phrase "climate best by government test" written on them.

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Ditto ��

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Subscribed.

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into the shop today to have roll bar bolted in properly. this is one thing I wanted to be done by people who actually know what they're doing. I sanded , used rust inhibitor, primed and then finished the bar with bed liner. Didn't have time to do the side bars - i'll have to refinish them in situ.

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did you get your soft top yet?

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no money does not permit and as it's summer in CA there is no need right now. Money being spent on equpt for lowering to stock and installing roll bar.

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latest update. The Good -New body mounts installed and WARN hubs on front. The ride is 20 times better already just with 8 wee bushings and the vehicel feels better in genuine 2WD. The bad - Roll bar doesn't fit properly - it came out of a 74 and it hits the sides of the bed in my truck with no room for interior trim. The ugly - UPS lost one of two leaf springs coming from LMC for the lowering and can't find it. grrrr. No pics as it looks the same at present.