IT HAS BEGUN!!!! kinda......
 

Just a couple of pics of my 76 swb. I scored on a set of Trailblazer SS manifolds this weekend for $25 with down pipes. I also stuffed the eng/trans in the truck. I am using Dirtydingo slider mounts. They are the newer non welded style and I am planning on using the factory 4.8l a/c compressor in its factory location.

I decided to stuff the engine in before I did thew front suspension so I could have some weight on the springs. I had the firewall cleaned and cleared, but damaged it when I set the motor in.

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Dont mind the sledge hammer, thats my Ford tool.

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i dont know how different the 76 is but with the dirty dingo slider mounts ui bought they where non weld i couldn't get my compressor bracket to clear the sliders

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I actually had to un-mount the adapter from the block and as the engine came closer to the mount slip it in. It was tight going in with whole eng/trans assembly.

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Well I guess I listened to DD salesman as he told me (before the swap) that I would have to replace the compressor as it would not fit my 78!!
So I have his upper bracket and slider motor mounts.

I do like the fact that the linkage is in the same location, and the drive shaft is in the exact location as the TH350, by looking at the seal marks on the yoke !!!

I am now looking at rebuilding the A arms while the dog house is off, what brand of bushings did you use, or were they rubber?

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I did have to set the whole thing as far foward as possible to get the compressor to fit. and the intake is a few inches from the firewall. Ill try and post pics of the spacing.

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I have a grenade if you need it!

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Yes I did have to move the rear crossmember to the rear about 2 inches and re drill a few holes, and there is still clearance from the firewall

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OK so here are a few pics of the firewall and the a/c compressor clearance with the Dirty Dingo mounts. It is a little close on the electrical connector on the a/c compressor. I am not opposed to relocating the a/c compressor to an up position, but if I can keep it low I would prefer it.

On the other hand if I relocate the compressor, I can move the engine back and close the gap on the firewall. Any thoughts anyone?.....

I am modifying the transmission crossmember now to accept the single stud type transmount.

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Hello, Is this issue with the a/c the reason some people move the pedestals back to the inline 6 spot and use the forward moving mount plates? I hope you understand what i am trying to ask???

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I believe so, I hadn't heard of moving the pedistals back for the inline 6 postion. that might work too. I know some people have used this mount set up had success with it. Anyone else know?

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So I ended up having to remove the a/c and bracket as well as move the eng/trans back to gain room for the drag link and loom for the starter. It does seem a little better with the whole thing moved back. The bottom pic shows the problem and the upper shows the clearance I now have. I removed the a/c wiring and moved the loom up and secured it out of the way.

On another note, the front end is back together and down on the ground. 3 inch drop spindles and one coil cut. I threw on a fender to get a picture of what it is going to look like. I should have a pic up soon. I also got my 87 fuel injected tank as well. More to come.

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I got my 87 tank and modified a fuel level sender for an 87 to take a fuel pump from a late model fuel pump recall. Hopefully get my fuel system done this weekend. I am going with the Dorman nylon fuel line.

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I did a final and the crossmember is 3 inches to the rear and I changed the rear mount to a 2 bolt from the stud mount on the 4L60E.

I wonder how far to the rear the engine and transmission is now from the 350/350, did this combo change the weight bias front to rear?

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My crossmember is about 2-3inches back. I ended up removing my a/c from the stock position so i could go back further. I am eying a drive shaft from a 2004 2wd tahoe that measures 55 inches from center to center on u joint caps and the yoke sticks out 2.5" from extension housing. It will need to shortened about 2".

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Got my bargin deal trailblazer ss manifold on as well. It fits like it was made for this swap.

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Also I got my fender jambed and installed with the inner fender panel. I used a custom mixed paint aerosol can from my local Napa auto parts with a paint store in it. Cataline Blue metalic laid out nicely.

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This is the doorman tool pressing the compression fitting onto the line.

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Got the tank straps on with some roofing paper and installed the fuel lines.

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Got the engine side of the fuel line ran and secured. This part takes the longest trying not to kink the nylon is the tricky part.

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Good idea running the nylon line in a rubber hose.

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are those compression fittings on the sending unit?

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Yes they are. If you look at the expensive Russell AN fittings they are also compression fittings.

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I also added the clamp to be extra sure.

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I might try those man...seal good? No leaks?

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I should be able to prime the system soon so I'll let you know. This kit I used is made by dorman and it has just about every fitting you could need except a male fitting that goes into a quick disconnect.

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So at this point in my fuel system I need to splice the return line. I would like to put a male fitting to female quick disconnect fitting at this splice in my fuel system so I can have access to my fuel tank if I ever have to drop the tank. I cannot find any fitting for my style of fuel system that are male. I cut some ends off of a few few fuel filters and experimented. I came up with the standard compression fitting in the name end is where I am going. I took a test compression fitting apart to see how well it works. It had a great contact and crush pattern

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I could have swore someone was just talking about something just like this haha

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So after some experiments with male fuel adapters I came up with this, a cut off 5/16 fuel filter end in a new compression fitting. I wanted a way to disconnect the return line if I needed to drop the tank. I also got both motor mounts changed, drill band tapped the broken exhaust manifold bolt and mounted my trailblazer ss manifold. I then found a coil on eBay for 16 bucks to replace the one I broke. Getting ready to send off my pcm to lt1swaps for a flash. Hopping to attempt a test start in a few weeks.

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A couple of shots. I gained a lot of clearance with the new mounts

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I got a harness for my fuel pump and sender made and ran it forward. I also got the radiator support in so I can get a better idea of how its going to all lay out. Waiting on my pcm from lt1swaps, hopefully soon. I am getting close to fire up. I got the oil and filter changed.

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Looking good. I just got mine moving under is own power yesterday. Nice feeling. You will be there soon.

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I am looking into the radiator now. I saw the post on this and it seems like the 2002 truck radiator is to wide. The base griffin radiator seems like a good deal. I will need a trans cooler though. Is any one just running a stock 70's radiator with out an issue? I understand some are but whats the advantage to the original over the swap radiator other than the bungs being on the same side? I see on summit that the swap radiator has the trans cooler connections on the drivers side and it is over $100 more than the base LS swap radiator. It would seem that an external cooler would be more cost effective and have less plumbing to it. Any thoughts?

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Thanks First c10 I am getting really excited. I see a lot of guys are getting these projects fired up and I cant wait to be one of them.

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I used a stock replacement from champion. It came with 2-14" fans and shroud. But. Here is the but. The mounts had to be worked over. The aluminum was the same width but not the same height. I had to raise the lower mounts and trim the little saddles to fit the square tanks on the alum radiator to keep the metal from touching the aluminum. Oh and the top hose is a little unsightly for now it works but I plan to make a custom hose and make a radiator cover for the top so you won't see it. A lot of options out there. Just depends where you want to put the money. :)

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That's a nice looking radiator, I am leaning toward just using a stock replacement and going from there. I would like to have something with a tranny cooler built into it and on the passenger side.

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nothin wrong with the stock 70's radiator if you can make the difference in hose diameters work. it'll cool plenty.

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That is good to know. I didn't realize they were different sizes.

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I cranked the engine over tonight to prime the oil and get a good ear of the way it sounds. It was great and the mounts sound good no weird metal noises. Just waiting on my pcm from lt1swaps.

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Nice work!

I remember that point in my swap. Feels good man.