1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

I just closed a deal on a 1974 C20 Custom Deluxe. It appears to be all original, with a nice running 350 4bbl and TH Automatic.

Only cancer is the typical battery tray/core support/inner fender lip and the inner rockers and inner kick panels (1" up from the floorboards) Exterior is really, straight... with the only exception being the bowed tailgate and a couple of dings and scrapes. Could use a good wash and detailing.

The chrome bumper has a small wow in the top, the rear lower corner by the back bumper has a shallow ding and the same side of the bed has the worst dent on the belt-line, but really fairly small.

The engine bay only needs some good cleaning and maybe the flat black parts repainted. The clear coat is nearly gone on the body, except on parts of both doors.

Plans call for:

1. An ECE Front Spindle conversion to C10, so I can keep all the C20 HD parts.
2. 1" Drop coils in the front to get it at 3.5" if the 2.5" doesn't look like enough.
3. Dutchman rear axles punched for C10 pattern so I can keep all the rest of the C20 HD parts.
4. Swap in a newer Tilt Column with wiper delay.
5. Flip kit in the rear and maybe a c-notch if needed to get me 4"-5". Toss the HD leaves.
6. Appropriate wheel and tire combination to achieve the look I want. (probably the hardest decision to make on the project.)
7. Rhino Liner on the bed only.. not the wheel tubs.
8. 1.25" sway bar in the back.
9. R/R the bumpers.
10. Crimson Red and White paint - base coat clear coat... jury is out on keeping the trim and badges... might just go with two tone and striping.
11. Black leather and Gray Tweed upholstery and gray wool carpet.
12. Swap the 350 with my other motor: A 1970 350 010 high nickle content 030 over with lots of goodies.
13. Updated gauge cluster and stereo-speakers.

I have some researching to do before I start collecting parts and setting aside the funds. I will start a specific thread once all the fun begins.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

In the photos, you can see the bowed tailgate when it's open. The trunnion needs attention as well... so most likely will be looking for a replacement tailgate that doesn't need bodywork, and redo the trunnions. You can also see the only real body work that needs to be done in three of the photos.

The aftermarket wheels will be finding a new home at some point.

I will do a complete once over on the front suspension at my brothers shop; replacing what needs replacing when we do the drop spindles.

The steering is an OEM variable Ratio unit, but I might be sending it to Tennessee for a quick ration conversion.

All the mechanicals work like they did from the factory.

The replacement motor can be seen below as well... currently residing in a 1974 International... The current resident in the C20 will take up residence in the International and be stored for my daughter to drive when she is old enough. We will be blending a 1974 Step Side and Fleetside IH into one pickup for her... and save the parts for any "repairs" she might need done!;)

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Nice soild truck! I agree the rims are hideous

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Looks like a nice solid truck.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Yeah, I've crawled all over it and it's in really great shape. I was concerned about the typical cancer spots, but someone kept the crud from collecting on this one, because it needs hardly anything in the way of body work. The inside is dry as a bone... no moisture whatsoever, no moldy smell.

I almost pulled the trigger on a Seattle C10 but it was manual everything, steering, transmission, breaks... and I wanted to keep the 350/TH400 package... so I passed.

I couldn't find any C10 candidates that weren't over priced basket cases, so I started considering C20's. I have a '79 chassis blasted and primed, with a 12B rear, but with the ECE C10 conversion and how nice this truck is, I'm going to save the '79 and do a graft onto the '74 International for my daughter. That way she will have all Chevy running gear and a 350/TH400 combo.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Details on the quick steering?

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

nice truck

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

My bad... Chip Woyner is in Branson Missouri, not Tennessee. This is what I will be doing to my C20 and my daughters '74 IH when the time comes.

Essentially, I will go from 4+ turns lock to lock, to 2.5 to 3 turns. Once the suspension is tightened up (ball joints, etc where needed), the improvement will be huge. The price beats a $1200 or more R&P setup for someone on a budget.

http://www.powersteering.com/

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

she's nice, real nice

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Gregski,

Been following your build. Good stuff.
My SIL still lives in the Sacratomato area. My little brother passed suddenly last April. She is thinking about moving Northward, but can't come to grips with leaving the Cali weather. Can't say I blame her.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

I've always loved the 70's trucks, much more than the 80's versions.

Don't do anything silly like changing the front sheet metal.

Why swap out the axle and change to 1/2 ton? I personally love the heavy duty 8 luggers.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Whitedog76,

I wanted a C10 that I could lower in a mild fashion but there are no quality C10's around my area. The ones that are available, cost 2-3 times what I paid for this C20 and they still need a lot of bodywork. So I opted for this C20, figuring I can swap in C10 stuff with the money I saved on body work buying a high quality C20.

If I could achieve the look I want with aftermarket and stock C20 running gear, I would consider it, but the aftermarket manufacturers cater almost exclusively to C10's.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Dont forget you could use C30 drop spindles if you get the calipers.

Also consider looking for a 14SF. It is like a overgrown 10 bolt, and can be adapted to the 5x5 pattern easier then a 14FF. Plus it worth a couple mpg when geared due to dramatic weight loss.

I prefer the C20 since breaks are much better, and today's tires are big enough to do what ever you would want.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Ziegelsteinfaust:

Thanks for the options. This modification, will be the most time-consuming implementation wise.

I don't really need a lot of weight handling capability, as I will use it mostly for cruising transportation and hauling occasional sheet goods for the shop.

I have a 1979 12B in hand already, along with the complete front frame clip, so I will most likely go that route and swap all the parts over. The 14B FF rear differential is in extremely good shape and will have to find a home with someone who really needs/wants that level of robustness.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Love the truck...I can't wait to read about your progress!

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Country705,

Thanks. I look at it as I bought a C10 in really nice ALMOST rust free shape, with C20 running gear, for a price that most C10 pickups with major issues sell for.

My business took a big hit last June and it looks like there will be slim pickings for another year, so I opted for a nice running pickup that only needs bolt on upgrades as funds allow and will save the paint and interior for last. The cost of the drop kits, brakes, wheels and tires will cost me about 50% of the total build.

With the shape of this C20, I will be saving big money on body and paint. I have a friend who has done body work for several decades, who will do what little work I need done for cash, saving me a lot. I will most likely be staying with the factory Crimson Red and no side stripe, so I don't have to paint the firewall or interior cab... and shaving the trim and badges as well. I will do the Raptor Bed Liner myself.

I will redo the all the interior upholstery, including the dash, (except the seat), sound deadening, insulation and carpet myself.

When funds allow, I will be adding the flush fit windshield, rear window and maybe one-piece door glass from One Piece Products. This will be followed with electric door locks and windows. Selling my wife's 1998 Explorer XLT and the 14B FF axle will add a few funds to the mix as well.

Once I have the money set aside to start the engine/suspension swap, I will start an actual build thread. Until then, I am researching, asking questions and planning the best options to achieve the end result I am looking for.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Looks good!

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

I have been gradually going over the the '74 to see what all needs to be done. In doing so, I have a couple of questions:

1. The drivers door will not stay open. I am not familiar with these doors, as previous trucks I have had use a synthetic wedge type material mounted to the hinge surface to hold the door open.

The passenger side works well, but I cannot seem to isolate what actually creates the tension when the door is open, so I can compare to the driver side. Repro hinges are available for $20+ but if I can fix the OEM, that would be preferable.

The hinge pins are fine in both doors and and absolutely no door sag.

2. I have to actually keep hold of the door handles when closing the doors, as they want to pop right back out. They stay semi-latched, but want to pop out to that partial open position unless you give it a firm close and keep pressure against the door handle to keep it from jumping back. Something needs adjusting... just not sure what it is. It's almost like an atmospheric pressure sort of feeling... I know weird description, but going with what it feels like.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Greetings from SE Portland. I work in Tualatin, and for some reason, your truck looks familiar.

I spent months hunting for a new project/driver. While a Squarebody was on the list, my main criteria was an inline six, 3OTT, and a longbed. I looked at everything from flathead Dodge to '50s Fords when I found my C15 for a screaming deal.

Seems like prices are all over the map around here lately. While we don't salt our roads, we do have a lot of rain, so rust still happens... I saw ratty swiss-cheese 60's GMs going for absurd amounts, and a beautiful Studebaker that the guy was just about giving away...

Anyway, glad to see you found what you were after! I love the 3/4 ton trucks, though I understand your desire to change it to 5-lug.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

What holds the door open is the "S" looking spring on the hinge shown here. The two serrated roller looking deals roll on the spring and hold it in place.

http://www.autobodyspecialt.com/PDGImages/C-755R.jpg

For being hard to close, check and make sure there is a bushing on the door striker still.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Oregoon...

I live about 5 minutes from Tualatin. The PO of this truck is from Tigard... Washington Square area.

The main selling point for me was the condition of the sheet metal and it being a really dry truck. A bonus was a nice running OEM 350 and TH400, so I have a backup engine/trans that my son and I want to do some serious work on when time and funds allow. Haven't had a screaming motor since my '69 Z28 302 M22 4 Speed...

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

y5mgisi

I looked at the "S" spring earlier, with the door cracked open so I could see it. Just went outside and looked again, only this time, I fished my fingers between the door and fender and low and behold, it moved! The bottom hook, rollers and all snapped off from metal fatigue... complete smooth break!

So, is there a repair kit/part or do I replace the whole hinge and call it a day?

While out there, I checked out the strikers. Both are bare metal and the edges of the round heads are showing noticeable contact wear. Are there replacement bushings, or is this a replacement striker situation?

Thanks for the great info!

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

I must've seen it. My mom lives off off Greenburg, and I have a bunch of friends around Progress and Metzger (I grew up in Aloha, Beaverton, Hillsboro, etc).

Looks like a really straight find! Congrats!

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

I think brothers or LMC sells just the spring but in all likelihood you probably need bushings too. Hinges aren't that expensive so price it out before you spend all the time rebuilding them.

You can get new striker bushings. It is called pex pipe if I remember correctly.

Good luck on your build. I have a C20 myself.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

You can buy a whole new hinge setup.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Working on small stuff while I finalize what all needs to be done.

Replaced both door strikers... huge difference! Next up is the drivers door top hinge.

My body shop buddy came over on Friday and said he will do the job at his home shop in one afternoon. Get it done and in primer. When the weather warms up, the 20 will get a base coat clear coat.

I think I have the wife's Exploder sold... Yeah, I know, but she bought it before we ever met.

If that deal goes down, the motor swap will take place post-haste and then most likely off to storage for the two Internationals. I say most likely, because a guy in Colorado contacted me about buying both Internationals and all the spare parts... I have ridden in that rodeo before.

I had to work out a deal with my daughter, that if I sold "her truck" I had to negotiate a "first right of refusal" if Mr. Colorado ever sold the truck... PLUS I have buy a '56 Bel Air before she reaches her senior year in high school, ... She then proceeded to light up my e-mail with potential candidates... What have I created?

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

First of all Howdy. I just went through the decision to go C-10 (almost all overpriced locally compared to work needed) or buying a really nice c-20 for reasonable Money. Found a local unit with 40K miles that needs a new tailgate, same door problem and a bit of rust. $500. As soon as I could figure out best way to mount a good hitch, drove it to Lake Havasu with a very full trailer with only needing a thermostat and had to bypass heater core. Your build makes perfect sense to me. With gas prices so low at the moment, just might keep it a c-20 Subscribed.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

patrickth,

Yeah, "quality" C10's are getting real expensive and they need a lot more work than the 20 I got. I can put a set of ECE 2.5" drop spindles and up to a 2" drop spring and lower the front 4.5" for about $450. I have a $100 12B rear, coupled with a new brake job and flip kit and can drop the rear 6" or so for about $300.

Then it's all cosmetic work, which will not be bad at all because of the overall condition of the 20. I have a slight bow in the tailgate, but have access to several at the U-Pull It. All the sheet metal is the same between the 10 and 20 (as far as I have determined), so for all intents and purposes, I will have a 10 with a little 20 running gear up front.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

I am due for a road trip. Going to look for a gold front passenger fender to put on while I fix my original. I bought a welder, but don't know how to use it yet. Need to practice filling some rust break throughs.

Forum won't let me post pics.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

What happens when you try to post a photo?

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

It says security cert error, contact admin. Going to look deeper into it in a bit. Got to drill a hole in trailer tongue to readjust a chain.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

I believe your computer is looking at the websites Security Certificate or the website might be looking for yours (which would be really odd), which may have expired, and so it's limiting access. Might just be some settings you need to adjust on your end, like lowering your Security Setting from High to Medium?... just a guess.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Yep, and the 20 has a slightly thicker frame so it's less likely to have cracking problems at the steering box (if treated the same).

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

I would suggest using imgur.com to host images, once you've uploaded them you can copy the BBCode link they have, paste it here, and have images show up.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Trying again. Never had a problem before. Fender needed, and color of truck with option code.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Yea for me... the 1998 Exploder has found a new home! An Oregon Duck fan bought it and my wife has all her Oregon State Beavers decals plastered on the back window.

I'm sure she will appreciate the irony... although her take will be that the Duck deserved all the problems he just bought. He is a mechanic for a Ford Dealer and had no issues with all the problems.

Now to focus on the engine swap... and getting the Internationals sold or into storage.

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

Nice truck, and congrats on unloading the exploder. If you haven't already dealt with the door hinge, I just rebuilt all 4 of my hinges with parts from LMC. Replacing the S-spring would only take a few minutes, and replacing the hinge pins and bushings is also pretty easy and for a couple dollars in parts you might want to do it while the door is off anyway. Of course getting the door off, hinge off, back on, and realign door will likely take just a bit longer :lol:

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Okay, time for a brief update. (Photos to follow)

Last weekend, I installed new door rubbers. It's about 90% quieter, and considerably more air-tight as we do have to close the doors harder. We used the nice press-fit rubber seals. If the window is cracked a bot, the doors do close easier.

My brother, middle son and I spent the last two days swapping the nice built 350 into the C20 and setting the original motor aside for future rebuild and use in another vehicle for my daughter.

We have a minor carburetor issue to resolve as it runs out great bit has a rough idle (nearly wants to stall out) while idling under load... neutral, accelerating, or cruising is great. It's a new Edelbrock and we are only getting idle adjustment from one of the adjustment screws... so that's a contributor as well.

Another issue is the Temp gauge (L-H) wants to peg all the time. The motor runs cool, so it's not really overheating. I have to look into the sending unit that we initially had installed in the 305 when it was in the International. It worked flawlessly there. So something is different with the C20 with regards to what the gauge is expecting to receive and what it is actually getting.

We have a full set of KYB shocks and rubber cab/radiator core support mounts to install, as well as some miscellaneous rubber parts like hood stops, etc.

We have new hinge pins for all four hinges and the S-spring stops to install.

... wife is calling for dinner... gotta go!

Re: 1974 C20 Soon to become a project...
 

I don't exactly need new rubber, can make do, but it is on my list after I get new driver window register installed. Was it difficult to install.

1974 C20 "Project BABA YAGA!"
 

Patrick,

No, it took longer to clean off some of the adhesive from the PO's repairs. I started in the middle of the rocker panel area, as that's where I wanted the seam to end up (under the sill trim). Then just "walk" it around the opening.

Make sure you really get it seated well in the upper corners, as the tendency is to just push it until it looks smooth, but, if you look on the inside of the cab corner, you will see if it's not evenly spaced, as the reveal will be wider around the inside corner because you didn't push it on far enough. I have to go back and correct the corner of the first door we did, as it's not as good as the second door and looks... well, bad! If you don't correct that, you will eventually have that part of the door seal pull away over time... we have all seen that in trucks, and it's not pretty. I will post some photos of what I am talking about.

When you install, you can sort of feel it snap or seat itself against the flange. If the hard part of the door seal, where the metal is embedded, looks "lumpy" then you have high spots that need to be pressed on until it's all flat.

The only other tight area on my '74, was where the door seal went down past the dash. A real tight fit. I had to use the rubber handle on my hammer to jab it in place so I wouldn't distort the seal.

Once you get back to the rocker panel where you started, just trim it to fit snug against the other end of the seal and you are good to go. My door seals had about 6" left over, so keep it in case you need to repair any sections at a later date.