need primer advice
 

right now my truck is three different colors. I am going to prime it myself. want it to be 1 color until I can have it painted. it may take a year or two before I can get it finished. WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST KIND OF PRIMER TO USE FOR SUCH A LONG TIME BEFORE A REAL PAINT JOB IS DONE?

Re: need primer advice
 

Epoxy any type most can be tinted too

Re: need primer advice
 

x2!

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I'm also gonna say epoxy. But you must know that the time frame your looking at is way out of any recoat possibility. In the future when your ready to farther the project in this area, your gonna have to sand it [and that stuff sands like concrete]and recoat it a couple times before proceeding.
Epoxy is the ONLY type of primer that is not gonna absorb moisture and pull it near the metal causing rust.
If your shopping look into the epoxy by PPG's Omni line. Omni is a line geared to body shops and it is economical. Omni can and will save you 10% to 90% over the top shelf DBC paints and clears and the DPLF primers. They also have a great high build[MP282]
The black Omni primer number is MP175[I think] I don't use near as much epoxy as I do high build cause I mostly work on newer stuff. I do however use the Epoxy and high build both on my old stuff. Jim

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looks like epoxy is the way to go. how much should I get for a swb stepside? any tips on prep before I spray it?

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It's not hard to do just gotta take your time to prep and tape it all up .. If your using a 2k primer I'd buy a harbor freight gun

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I went to harbor freight yesterday. could not decide on which gun to buy. im going to prime it this weekend.

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Get the purple gun with the plastic cup .. It's normally on sale for less that $20 with the coupon.. It's perfect for priming and if you don't clean it properly then your only out $20.. Wish I was off I'd give a hand but fixing to start a 18day run at my plant

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ok thanks for the tip. for $20 if I can prime 1 truck its worth it.

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Yep.. Lmk what day you plan to prime and I can swing by after work and give a hand if you want.. I get off at 5pm

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Last I knew primer IS NOT how you want to leave your vehicle. Water penetrates primer. You have to seal it.

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If a person were to reread my post they would see that the epoxy is the only primer water won't soak into. It forms a plastic type barrier around the metal. While it is true it has no UV protection and will not last [long term] in the weather.
The best case in your case would be after you prime spray the truck with equipment enamel. You can get a gallon and the mixing components for less than $50 per gallon. Spray that behind the epoxy and it will last for a very long time. Jim

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thanks for the tips EVERYONE. I have never painted anything. I am going to prime it myself and go from there if it comes out good I will then tackle the paint job.this will never be a show truck but I enjoy working on it I am semi-retired and it gives me something to do.

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^^^agreed^^^
Eastwood has a budget epoxy primer kit that doesn't break the bank. I gallon kit will not be enough and two you will have some left over. Kirker also has pretty good budget stuff.
I think both can be purchased on Amazon. Use a prime account and it's free shipping.

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Check into Omni anywhere you can buy PPG. I get mine at a O'reillys. I have used the high build and the epoxy and it is good stuff. Jim

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Omni is great stuff and if you apply a couple of coats of the MP 172 mixed with the 175 catalyst and add a splash of MR 186 reducer it will go on reasonably smooth. As was stated earlier it is not going to hope up to UV but it will protect metal. Since you are not stripping the truck to metal only making it one color this option should work.

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Also if/when you buy a gun or one of the gun kits with multiple guns in it for different types of painting, make sure to get a 1.4 for paint [and clear coat] and a 1.7 or 1.8 for primer. I use to use the 2.0 tip for primer and have even gone as big as a 2.3 gun for primer[might as well just pour it on]but I went to a 1.7 and it with the MR 186[or this time of year in the heat MR 187]and it went really slick. It saves a TON of sanding [to get smooth] if you go with the 1.7 tip. I have used many gallons of that MP282 high build and it really does well. You will be happy with the results. But keep in mind that the primer is porous and will soak moisture. that is why I suggested spraying some equipment enamel over it for two reasons. 1 it will seal it up and 2 it will provide cheap color

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can you get this equipment paint from a auto paint supply? what sandpaper should I use befor paint? THANKS

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My suggestion, mostly like others have already said: Prime with epoxy initially. Then within 24 hours, apply a coat of lacquer primer. The lacquer primer will protect the epoxy primer from UV degradation. Sure, the lacquer primer will absorb water, but the epoxy primer will keep it away from the metal. When you are ready to paint, the lacquer primer can be easily removed via sanding and the process will provide the necessary tooth to the epoxy primer for recoating as needed.

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I was in the parts store today [but I live in farm country] and they have the equipment enamel. I was thinking about using some of it to paint one of my frames. Th three stores plus the lumber yard here in my town have it and you can get some color choice , you don't have to paint a tractor color. Although some colors can be cool like Allis Challmers orange or John Deere yellow, IH red is a pretty red color.
Now on the sand paper start [if you have a 6inch D.A. sander], with like some 180 or 220 grit then go over that with 400 grit D.A. paper before priming.
Now if your doing body work on some places you will need some 80 grit and 120 grit as well to sand 80 then 120 before going to the 220 grit to remove scratches.

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The Eastwood primer is what I use. Good build, great adhesion and it does not allow water intrusion. It DOES cure a bit slow but that doesn't matter unless you leave your stuff outside.

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here is the truck I am about to prime. the tarp is to keep leaves out of the cowl because I just cleaned it out. the dog is my helper. tools I just bought also. one question--- WHAT KIND OF PRESSURE SHOULD I USE FOR PRIMER?

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The primer mfg should tell you what pressure and tip size to use on the tech sheet or "P sheet". The SPI epoxy I use, I run a 1.5 tip and spray it at 23 psi at the gun to give you an idea. But definitely follow the mfg's sheets.

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I love your wheels I have two sets of 5 lug and one set of six lug. I plan on putting them on my trucks someday.But when your building 6 of them your talking 12 rocker panels and 12 fenders and 12 doors 12 bedsides That is a lot of rep over time I don't have.

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Do you have a compressor that's up to the task?

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been a while but making progress. weather is good and plan to do final sanding with 800 and spray with black eastwood epoxy primer in the morning. interior almost finished also. if this primer turns out ok I will attempt to paint it soon.

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Eastwood epoxy doesnt need to go to 800. I would do 600 at most it fills pretty well. It doesnt have UV protection but you will have to sand it when you paint it anyway.

This is Kirker (the company that produces Eastwood's paint) on my floors. It was prepped with 80 grit. You cant see any of the sanding scratches.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...830_185851.jpg

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I wouldn't recommend painting over the epoxy primer. You CAN but I think you will be less than satisfied with the results, the epoxy you see has no fill properties what so ever and it is gonna look, well, bad is the word I'm looking for. You will see that when you spray the epoxy on the truck that it is gonna look different on the body spots than it does on the metal, that is because the primer is soaking into the filler and while you may have the body spots as perfect as can be there still gonna show. Now go right over the epoxy primer with a couple coats of a high build similar to MP282. [I use Omni so I am familiar with those numbers] It is a grey high build it sprays with the same tip gun as the epoxy. I know you may be up against the wall on time if this is a daily ride and you may need to be done but I just feel if you skip this all important step [in my opinion] it is gonna hurt your final outcome. Jim

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Jim is right. Sorry I probably wasnt clear enough.

I'd shoot the epoxy then the fill/high build primer. Spend your time and effort on the fill primer and less on sanding pre-epoxy.

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this primer comes in 2 one gallon cans that have to be mixed. should I mix it all at once or in separate smaller quantities?

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Just mix what you need as you need it if you don't use it all you will have a lump of primer in a can. I quite often mix a couple of oz. of primer weather it is epoxy or high build. I may need a spot the size of my fist so just mix a small amount.
If you were to mix it all at once it may start the hardening be fore you even get to it.

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I was hoping you would see this. I was thinking to mix about 1/4 up at a time. what do you put your primer in to mix it and store it as you go? also what should I clean gun with when im done?

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Go to the paint store and get some mixing cups. they have the gradations on them for different amounts and different formulas. Lets say this mixes 1 to 1 there will be a ratio for that and the line. You pour in the primer then the reducer or what ever mixes to the next line that way your consistent in the mixing and just pour in to the cup and stir like I sometimes do. I have been pouring into cups since before some of the guys on here was born before those fancy cups came along. It is not what I would suggest you do use the cups like I say. Only mix up a gun full at a time so you don't get primer hardening before you can get to it. The thing to do about the gun is get some lacquer thinner and run through it then take it apart and clean it. I make a rule, it is is mixed and sprayed the gun gets a teardown to clean and refresh. Otherwise your gonna use the gun one time where it sprays ok next time it barely will and if it will at all on the third time you will be wanting another gun to prime with. I use those guns that come in a kit with a couple of them in a bubble pack for like $70 bucks. I have been using the same primer gun for I don't know maybe 8 years or so and the same cheapo type gun with different tips for paint up until recently I bought some new Devilbiss guns but i still use the old cheap one for primer.

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ibought some cheap 30 oz measuring cups. so I willjust mix one at a time. thanks for all the help.

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well; its one color now. now I can really see what needs to be fixed . going to have to learn something about body work before I try to paint it.at least it looks better than it did.

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Get some sanding blocks, also some high build primer and a guide coat system of some sort. The guide coat does just as the name implies it guides you how to finish the body spot. If you spray or daub on the guide coat[that is the two popular styles of guide coat]and you start to sand the spot and then you have say a spot right in the center that still has the coating on it it is low and need either filler or putty[2 part] or just more high build primer depending on the size and depth. You can determine this after you have a little practice. I use Evercoats 2 part poly filler putty as it can go on over bare metal primer paint or even scuffed clear coat. It is easier than butter to spread AND sand. I dries super fast if you trying to keep it moving.
Now there is such thing as a filler primer that is one step more than your basic high build primer and it is a product called slick sand it is made for stuff like hail dents I think was the original plan for this product. I've heard you can stick a quarter to a panel and slick sand over it and bury the quarter. Now you really need some sharp paper and lots of block sanding in mind if you use a product like that. I just use a regular high build primer like Omni MP282. I've used more than a hundred gallons of the stuff it is great. Spray some high build then block it with 180 or 220 grit then reprime and see where you are after that. EXCEPT on the panels where you can feel the spot or see where it needs work and then work it first.
Also some paper on a stir stick can really help you knock high spots of a body spot real quick. if you need more help let me know and I'll do what I can. Jim

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going back to work on the truck this weekend. the bodywork is going to be minimal. the worst spots are where I tried to fill in trim holes. should have left them alone but truck came missing all trim. will try to fill them again. think I will try and paint it since I already have bed off thinking of using eastwood single stage. ANY OPINIONS?

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Truck looks better already.

As far as going ahead and painting the only advice I have is get the body as straight as you possibly can before you do. Primer, because it is "flat" (no reflective properties) will hide imperfections, paint will NOT and will make all imperfections painfully, gutwrenchingly, obvious (I know from firsthand experience)

I hate block sanding and finish bodywork, but not as bad as an improperly prepared paint job. I would rather drive with the primer than get in a hurry to lay paint.

Good luck, Rg

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1 can is enough with some to boot, it makes 2 gallons. 1:1 mix