Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

All you guys doing great work on your trucks has motivated me to try and document the refurbishment of my newly acquired 62 C20. Exterior shots of truck here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=703157

My goal is to bring this truck to a condition where it will be reliable transportation. Safety features like a dual circuit brake master cylinder and seatbelts will be added. All the other systems will be gone through completely :

Cooling
Fuel
Brakes
Electrical
Steering
Drive line(u-joints, carrier bearing)

This is a good starting list. So far I've started with a good cleaning of the interior and cowl areas. I've also removed most of the old cooling system parts.

The cowl area was packed to the hilt with cedar tree needles. I removed all of the cowl panels and used a screw driver to break up the needles and vacuum them out. Still have a bit more to do and also make sure the drains are clear.

Also looking for any sign of rust in these areas and only finding a few spots of minor surface oxidation. Yay!

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Hello and welcome.
Deep cleaning, been there.
Glad to see another truck saved.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

The corner cowl panels had holes from what looks like some sort of antenna and also from the camper cabover struts. Dropped them off at a shop to have the holes closed up. Both panels solid metal.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

When I was looking the truck over at the time of purchase I unscrewed the radiator cap to look inside and quickly saw that the radiator was in poor shape. When I disassembled the cooling system I found lots of sludge in the bottom of the radiator and rusty scale in the engine itself.

Somehow I need to see if I can flush as much of the rusty debris as possible before putting things back together. Also still need to remove and inspect heater core. It is probably toast too.

Radiator is at radiator shop being rebuilt.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Bomp ,you got that right.

Cleaning, cleaning and more cleaning and then painting, painting and painting.

Well, I figured I'd try and back flush the engine through the t-stat housing port in the cylinder head. This approach seemed to work well and I got four or five 5 gallon buckets of nasty rusty water before it started running clear. It all came gushing out of the water pump port in the block. I think this will be as good as it is gets short of re-building the engine.

Here is a pic of some of the water that came out and a pic of probably the 7th 5 gallon flush. And one pic of the cleaned t-stat and water pump mounting surfaces

Now it was time to put everything back together.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

After a lot of scraping, wire brushing and painting I got the t-stat housing and water pump installed. I painted them gray. The pulley and fan got semi-gloss black. Also got my radiator back from the shop just in time to finish the weekend.

Other new items are upper and lower hoses, belt, heater hoses and heater hoses fittings.

Thankfully, my blast cabinet should be here this week. Hand cleaning these rusty filthy parts has gotten old.

Step one is done. Next up is carb, fuel lines and fuel tank.

Here are a couple of pics of before and after:

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Well, since my last post I've modified the plan a little bit. I got lucky and landed a complete 150k mile 1990 K1500 very cheap and will use the 350 tbi for my 62. Also acquired a 1972 C20 front cross-member and Dana 60 rear. Will be doing power steering too. Haven't decided what to do with the transmission just yet but I think this a good start.

I'm going to start with a cross-member swap. This past weekend saw removal of the engine, transmission and drive line. My truck now looks like this -

Attachment 1545048

First thing to do is remove the torsion bar suspension and clean and paint the frame. That is the goal for this week.

Here is the 72 C20 cross-member I'm using -

Attachment 1545059

I'm going to try and carefully record and post what it takes to do this swap on a torsion bar 8-lug truck in case anyone is interested. Be back soon.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

This weekend I got the 62 frame drilled and the 72 cross member fitted.

Attachment 1546915

A couple of photos showing the two different cross-member L-brackets with the mounting bolt differences. Rear is to the right in the pics.

The 62 first -

Attachment 1546923

And the 72 -

Attachment 1546925

As you can see the upper holes are the same for both. I bolted up the cross-member using the upper bolts and then drilled for the lowers. The lower rear bolt needed a new hole more rearward than the original. The lower front needed to be slotted slightly upward and to the rear a bit.

Also, since the 62 frame is shorter than the 72 frame, there is a gap between the bottom of the frame and the new cross-member. A shim made from the scrap pieces of frame that came with the 72 cross-member fills the gap nicely.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Another difference between the two are the 6 bolt holes for the bolts that come up through the bottom of the cross-member into the bottom of the frame.

The 62 -

Attachment 1546940

The 72-

Attachment 1546941

On the 72 cross-member the 6 large bolt holes (3 on each side) are equally spaced front to back. On the 62 the front two holes are spaced the same as the 72 but the rear hole is not, so the rear hole on the new cross-member needed to be slotted forward to match the 62 frame.

One other thing is the hardware. All the cross-member mounting bolts on the 62 are grade 8 fine thread 3/8ths x 1 1/2. The 72 uses a combination of different length 3/8ths and 7/16ths all grade 8 coarse thread.

The 72 also came with this brace in the frame C channel -

Attachment 1546943

I may try to use this by cutting off the top ear so that it will fit the shorter 62 frame.

This week will be cleaning frame and firewall and fitment of Capt Fabs brake booster bracket and clutch master.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

A brief update today for my project. In the last few weeks I've cleaned and painted the firewall and the frame forward of the tranny cross member and permanently mounted the new cross member, installed the new a-arms, springs and all new bearings and brakes. Also have about 90 percent of the new brake system hard lines installed.
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Didn't get to the brake bracket yet due to more cleaning and painting needed on the inner side of the firewall, but that should happen soon. I went ahead and stripped out the interior to prep it for new paint. Lots of wire wheeling, and wire brushing and thankfully all cab metal solid. Should be paintable this week.
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One interesting thing I found behind the fuel tank when I removed it was this poster with calendar for a eastern California service station. Check out the year on the calendar.
Attachment 1557704

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

A bit of an update. Not a glamorous project, but coming together and should meet the goal of being a nice driver.
I've decided to give the interior basically a complete restoration. So after many hours of prep I finally got the interior painted. I used a paint I heard about on this board, that it was a good match for the original Fawn. I used Dupli-Color Nissan Sunlit Sand. Here is a before:
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And after:
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I think it came out pretty good. All other metal interior items have or are going through the new blast cabinet. The brake and clutch pedal bracket and steering column support bracket are installed after going through the blaster and then getting a good black semi-gloss paint job. The brake pedal is the only one going back in. I've decided to go with the 700r4 automatic.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Also got my Captain Fab brake booster and power steering bracket mocked up to their final locations. Sorry about the fuzziness of some of the photos.

The booster shown is from my 1995 C1500 parts truck painted gloss gray.
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The power steering bracket was a bit of a challenge. The lower rear hole to be drilled has a re-enforcement rib perpendicular to the vertical frame rails. it is right in the middle of the drill bits travel to the other side. I bought a titanium bit at Home Depot which ate right through the rib. The use of the provided template made it an overall simple task. I'll be taking the truck down to a friends shop for the final fitting and welding of the top rear bolt.
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Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Your interior came out looking great. Looking forward to your next update.

Bret

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Man that interior looks just awesome, can't wait until I paint mine. Thanks for showing what it takes to do the crossmember swap on a 60-62, I'm just starting to dive into mine. Please continue to show progress on the swap, very helpful and appreciated.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Pretty much finished up the steering portion of the cross member swap. The last bit was to locate the idler arm to the frame in the right spot. I first installed the 62 idler arm and bracket just to see if it would work.
Attachment 1567153
Attachment 1567154

It does work but not like it really should. The idler arm pivot point location between the 62 and 72 is very close, but the 62 location will not fully allow the idler arm to copy the movement of the pitman arm. Along with that I also couldn't get the center link located where I wanted it with the 62 setup so off it came and the 72 idler arm and bracket went on as the final setup.
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Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

After wrapping up the cross member it was time to move on to other pressing tasks of the project. For now I've decided not to use the 700r4 trans and just go with my stock 4 speed. It is in good shape and will allow me to retain the tranny mounted parking brake. When I figure out how to convert to the hand lever style parking brake, then I'll convert to the 700r4.

The next task was to place the 350 tbi engine into the truck to see how it fits. I bolted an old bellhousing to the engine and set it down onto the rear engine mounts and bolted it down.
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Using the cross member under the bellhousing to locate the engine works great. It sits in there nicely. But this is where I hit my first big snag in this project. I seem to have the wrong engine perches for use with the rear holes in the main cross member, not to mention the brake line interference.
Attachment 1567171
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Now the hunt is on for the proper engine perches to keep this project moving along.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Moving on from the engine for now I started reassembling the interior. Put in a new firewall pad, a new two speed wiper motor with delay and the dash harness portion of the American Autowire harness.

Firewall pad = PITA!. The fasteners that come with the pad are terrible. Way too big for the holes in the firewall. I ended up getting some better ones at the auto parts store and not using the ones that came with the pad.
Attachment 1567194

Dash harness is impressive. The fuse panel is huge.
Attachment 1567195
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New wiper motor from New Port Engineering. Very stoutly built.
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Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Well I got lucky and scored the correct perches locally on Craigslist. So I figured I'd post some pics of them in the 62 truck with a 72 cross member and engine perches from a 65.

I bolted them to the motor mounts and then dropped the engine down onto the cross member and holes lined up perfectly. The bolt dropped right in.
Attachment 1568584
Attachment 1568585

At the top there is a 1/4 inch gap that will need to be shimmed. I'll use some of the old 72 frame pieces that came with the cross member to make those.
Attachment 1568586
Attachment 1568587

Front shot.
Attachment 1568588

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Your doing a really nice job here:chevy:

Could you please show a picture of where the gap is and how you filled it? Thanks a lot

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Thanks for the kind words.

Regarding the frame to cross member gap, I ended up not using frame pieces to make a one piece shims in this instance because the gaps are not uniform. I didn't want to force in a one piece shim. So for now I shimmed each bolt separately with mostly grade 8 flat washers and in two spots there are upper a-arm shims, which are visible in the above pics. After the engine placement is completely sorted the engine will go back on the stand and I will re-visit that frame to cross member gap to see if it needs a better solution. The a-arm shims will be replaced for sure.

I have seen where others have closed that gap by using an impact gun to over tighten the vertical bolts coming in from the bottom. I don't think that is a good idea. That method will deform the cross member and/or the frame and possibly put unwanted stress on the bolts coming in from the sides.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

This build is looking great, very nice work!

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Ok thanks a lot man, I've never heard of this gap problem before looking into your thread. In markeb01's thread ( http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366828 ) he doesn't show any problems with the gap, maybe it has something to do with him using a 73-87 x member and you using a 72 xmember? I'm using a 78 so I'll see if I run into the same problem

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

I wouldn't really call it a problem. It is just addressing one more minor, but important, step in securing the later cross member to these earlier frames. It is really not a big deal.

Back in post #8 I put up some photos showing the upper mounting holes in the cross member L-bracket that are the same for the 62 and 72. Using these holes will locate the later cross member in the right spot. Then you mark and drill or slot for the rest of your mounting holes. Given the height differences between the 60-62 and 63-87 frames, I don't see how you can't have a small gap at the bottom of the frame. It is easily dealt with. Your experience with the 78 piece may be different in some ways also.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Got some little things accomplished over the last week or so. Made some shims for the top of the engine perches. Copied the shape of the perch, turned out nicely.
Attachment 1572134
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Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Worked on getting the brake booster and brake pedal set up. In post number 12 there is a photo of the booster I wanted to use but it turned to be too big in diameter. It is from a 1995 C1500 and it is approximately 11 inches wide in diameter. Too big to fit between the clutch master and the engine valve cover. The truck that gave its engine for this project, a 1990 K1500, had a smaller 9 inch booster. I took it and installed on the 62. Perfect fit!
Attachment 1572149
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For the pushrod I just mated the 1990 push with the 62 pushrod for adjustability. I also decided to use another great idea from this board and drop the brake pedal height with an extended bump stop.
Attachment 1572152
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Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

A couple of other things done were the clutch pedal re-installed, clutch pedal linkage hooked up and new dash harness more or less in its final place.
Attachment 1572158
Attachment 1572159

And thanks to 66ChevyMax for the compliment.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

I really like that clutch linkage

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Looks good, why is it that you used that clutch linkage? Wouldn't it work just about the same with a setup like this?

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

I'm using the whole CaptainFab " 60-62 booster bracket with clutch " and this is the linkage that comes with the kit, along with the clutch master cylinder. I believe this is the revised design.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

I figured I'd throw an update up for today. Got a bunch of little things done in the dash area. Still working on the dash wiring harness but should have that buttoned up this week. Also got a little bit of the engine compartment wiring plugged in at the firewall and the block-off plate bolted back on the cowl. Since the tbi 350 doesn't need a choke, the hole in the firewall that was for the choke cable comes in handy for the new wire harness
Attachment 1577278

Got most of the dash controls in and wired up - ignition switch, headlight switch, wiper switch and the dimmer for the Dakota Digital instrument cluster. The hole in the dash that had the choke control is now used for this dimmer control, just left of column. Also set the new instrument panel in to see how it looks. Looks good I think.
Attachment 1577281
Attachment 1577280

And steering column back in.
Attachment 1577282

Made a little progress with the brake plumbing with the proportioning now installed.
Attachment 1577279

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

That gauge cluster sure is pretty

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Yeah, its pretty slick. Besides the gauges, there are ten indicators like the usual turn signals and high beam plus ones like check engine, 4x4, cruise, auto trans gear selection, wait-to-start for diesel engines and parking brake. You just wire up the ones need or want.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Thanks for directing me to your thread, I love this truck! Looking forward to watching it come along.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...8&d=1471139097

That looks really nice! Can I ask how much paint that took to do?

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Thanks. If I remember correctly, it was 7 8oz. cans for the coverage I figured it would need to hold up. The dash got a couple extra coats.

Attachment 1590912

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Update - Last month I thought that I had set the engine into the truck for the last time, but my bell housing and clutch linkage arrangement idea didn't work out like I'd hoped. My scheme to move the clutch linkage to the driver side was borne out of the idea that bell housings with the clutch arm opening on the driver side are plentiful and cheap. I was able to get two of them at the swap meet for 20 bucks, and one of them came with a 60-62 horseshoe V8 front engine mount. Good score!
Well, that didn't work because the cab floor and firewall are right on top of the driver side of the bell housing leaving no room for the clutch arm or slave cylinder arrangement. I didn't even notice this until a couple of weeks after the engine was bolted in.
After a little bit of searching I was able to obtain a correct 60-62 V8 bell housing. And no , it was not cheap. But he had it and I needed it. Oh well.

Here is a pic of the two bell housings. The one on the left can be used in 55-59 and 63 and later trucks. 60-62 on the right, after powder coating.
Attachment 1591777

On the interior side I finally finished the dash harness along with the Dakota Digital instrument panel controller. Installed the instrument panel. Decided my stock steering column was too worn out to use so swapped it out for a tilt Ididit column. I liked the natural metal look so I just shot it with some clear.
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Got the fuel gauge and dome light wiring ran to their respective locations. Got the new dome light installed. And installed the rear body wiring harness ran to rear of truck.
Attachment 1591776

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

On the engine side - The brake plumbing is all done. All the brake hardlines are for a 1972 C20 from In-Line tube. Great kit. Every line went together with no trouble. I had a clutch hydraulic line made locally so now the new clutch slave cylinder is plumbed to the clutch master. Intermediate shaft installed between column and steering box.

I had the engine accessory brackets powder coated gloss gray and got those mounted along with the alternator, new belt tensioner and idler. Water pump, pulley and fan mounted too.
Attachment 1591779
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Also tried out this steering wheel from Grant. I'm still on the fence about going with this wood style wheel. Anyone have opinions about this steering wheel?
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I think it is coming along pretty well. My plan was to do something to the truck at least 5 days a week to ensure progress and it seems to be paying off.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Your truck is looking sweet, and a going very quickly as well. I personally like the wood steering wheel with the gold interior and the column. I have the same wheel in my 66 C20, but when my interior was gunmetal grey it didn't go as well as when I painted the interior white. I say leave until you interior is put together and then decide.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Already been two months since my last post so here is a quick update on the progress.
The last couple of months have been spent dealing with that part of the project called the "devils details". Things like power steering hoses, fuel lines, fuel tank plumbing, seat fitment etc...

So here is my new fuel tank. I got it from LMC. Its a really nice piece and I couldn't tell the difference between it and the one that came out of the truck. It also has a fitting for a fuel return line, which I need to use for the TBI system on the engine I'm using.
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Running a fuel injected engine opens up another can of worms. Fuel lines and how to route them. The GM throttle body(TB) feed and return enters and exits from the rear of the TB, so the factory fuel feed line was abandoned. I ran new 3/8 feed and 5/16 return along the inside of the inner frame rail to the bellhousing cross-member, then efi rated fuel hose to the hard lines coming off of the TB. Need to find a dual line clamp to secure the two lines coming off the TB. Any ideas?
At the fuel tank end I bent the lines to go up and over the top of the frame to meet up with the lines coming through the cab floor. A few inches of rubber fuel will join them. I haven't finished this part yet as I'm waiting for my engine harness and fuel pump to arrive. These should be coming this week. This was my first time making my own lines. Quite a learning experience.
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I also refurbished the TB with a kit from Summit. These TB's are super simple to do. Two hours to disassemble, clean and re-assemble with new gaskets, O-rings and filters for the injectors. Here is a pic of it back on the engine after going through it. For a "before" image, just imagine it black.
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So next weekend the task will be to install the fuel pump and filter, finish the last bit of plumbing and install the new engine harness. And shortly after I'll take the truck down to the muffler shop and have a new exhaust system installed. Some may gasp in horror, but I'm going use a two into one single 3 inch or 3.5 inch pipe exiting behind the left rear tire with a free flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler. So give or take, I'm probably three weeks away from hittin the key.

Re: Project daily drivable 62 C20
 

Along with the new fuel tank was new filler hose, filler neck grommet and shiny new gas cap.
Attachment 1613640

Also put in new front cab mount bushings. I believe these bushing are labeled for the 63 -66 trucks but can be used on the 60-62's too. They seem to be correct. Before I put them in I took a measurement from the back of the cab to the front of the bed, at the top and bottom. The gap was wider at the top than at the bottom. With the new mounts in the gap was even top and bottom. The rear cab mount bushings are in good shape, so they were left in.
Attachment 1613641

Here is a pic of the old mount and the new one for comparison -
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And finally I was able to get the power steering pressure line installed. The big problem here is that this steering pump uses the later style o-ring fitting and the steering box is inverted flare. My local shop couldn't make a hose with an o-ring style end on it. After some digging I learned that CPP sells an adapter fitting to mate o-ring to inverted flare. Problem solved I hope.
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