How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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While searching the local classifieds for a 67 Mustang fastback or 69 Camaro project for my wife, I stumbled upon this 70 Blazer. Really, I wasn’t looking for another truck, I promise. I have enough going on with my 1970 pickup: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good C10, but the price was right, so I grabbed it without a real plan of what I wanted to do with it.
The 45 minute drive home revealed what I already knew: it needs a little TLC, and it rides like crap. What to do? Below is a picture from the classified ad and one from my first fill-up on the way home: |
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I got it home with no issues, and promptly started tearing into it to see what I’m working with. It’s very solid underneath, with some minor rust issues peeking through a 10 year old, pretty well done repaint which was done in a F*rd color, medium wedgewood metallic blue. The real rust is in the upper windshield frame, as it had been sitting outside for a while. Overall, a pretty solid running/driving truck that just needs some lovin’ to get it right
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I kept thinking about what I wanted to do with this old thing and remembered I had seen a new product on the market from Polite’s Deadend Garage out of Biloxi, MS. Pretty slick pieces that take care of upper spring mounting, c-notch, crossmember, panhard, and shock mounting.
(pictures borrowed from azproperformance.com) |
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These are excellent pictures! They really show how their set up works, thanks!
Looking forward to see the shots of the front suspension 4x4 to 2 wheel. EDIT: Just saw those were borrowed pics ... I totally missed those when I was trying to get better shots of how their stuff worked. |
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While I was pondering the conversion, I decided to put together this dirty photo-hack of what it might look like as a 2-wheeler. I was instantly sold. This thread will now serve as a 4wd to 2wd Blazer conversion walk-through, using stock or stock-like parts. There are a few conversions here on the board, including my own previous endeavors, that leave many questions unanswered. I hope to remedy that as we proceed here.
The order has been placed with DEG, so look for updates as the sparks begin to fly :chevy: |
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I’m in for this one too... but don’t give up on the truck!
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Ok - in for this one. I have a 71 4wd blazer running/driving project in the garage right now that I may go this route on... haven't decided what I want to do with it yet. This thread may change that though. You going to keep it 6 lug or swap it all to 5 lug as part of the process?
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I'm watching!
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What’s the cost on the rear notch kit? I’ve got a project in mind these would work nicely on
Wade |
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Subscribed!
Maybe this will give me motivation to finish my 4x4 to 2x4 Porterbuilt C4 swap. |
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I’m in!
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Jason at DEG was great to talk to, answered all of my questions and then some, sent me a bunch of pics, and offered free shipping. Satisfied customer so far. Quote:
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Looking forward to this conversion. Really like the rendering you made and it just leads me back to the Torq Thrust for my own k5. Classic styling.
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I am here to see the carnage, I mean transformation ;)
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Ill keep watching your build here. You do great work |
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Cool!!! I've hopped on the train, too!
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Should be an interesting swap. Although, you are not going this direction, I always wanted to see if I could do a swing arm suspension with coil overs on a 4x4. Maybe I'll get some ideas as you progress
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Subed... you rat!
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I'm In!!!
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Awesome, Im excited to see this come together, I kind of want to do a blazer myself sometime.
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Your going to be using very nice product. Mine coming out good.
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Mine in the works
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I’m in for this build for sure, to answer your question on your other thread, I really like the TTII’s I have. The only problem I’m having is with the backspacing on the rear wheels and my narrow rear axle I’m running in the burb. They don’t fit at all without running a wheel spacer or adapter which I’m not a fan of. Trying to figure out what I want to do about it now.
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In for the ride too. I have always had a spot for these blazers, especially the 2wd versions. The DEG parts look good.
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Great thread!
The only thing I would add to the Deadend Garage parts,... is a 2" lowering block to help keep your ride height low,... with the correct pressure in the air bags. I'm glad to see someone document a 4x4-to-2wd conversion with Deadend Garage parts. |
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The 1-piece VN515 or the 2-piece VN405 wheels? The 1-piece wheels are cheaper but only come in set backspaces. 20x8 (4.5"bs) and 20x10 (5.75" bs) The 2-piece wheel comes in 20x8, 20x9.5, 20x10, 20x12, and 20x15 with a large variety of backspaces. When I ordered mine for my blazer I specified the backspace I wanted, since they were going through the custom shop anyway. |
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I hope you realize that converting a 4X4 to 2WD in Utah is a felony.
J/K- I subbed now. ;) |
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Those look so good on your suburban! Sorry for hijacking your thread gringoloco. |
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I’ve been wanting to document a conversion for a while now; I’m personally more interested in properly locating the front crossmember for prosperity, as there seems to be lots who have done it, but no definitive guidance. The DEG parts should make the rear a snap; remains to be seen! Quote:
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Dang, a few days away and I've missed a lot of conversation. Your plan sounds great! I'll be following along.
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I've always thought about these conversions in great depth. For me personally,... I would move the entire crossmember forward 1" to help center the wheels on low trucks. I know this means, moving sway bar mounts, idler arm holes, and the steering box holes,... but to me it would be worth it. Especially if you could weld and do it yourself,... which I know you can. I remember seeing this mod years ago on a squarebody blazer converted to 2wd. But I can't remember which magazine it was in. |
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If you think about it, moving the whole crossmember forward isn’t a whole lot different from using 1” forward tubular arms, as far as steering linkage geometry is concerned when related to the pitman and idler arm locations (someone please correct me if I’m under-thinking this). Stock type anti-sway bars can have the ends trimmed and linkage style bars might be able to absorb the difference (or have bushing locations redrilled, as you stated, thankfully, I’m starting from scratch there). All that to say, it may not be too terribly complicated to gain that extra inch. 104” wheelbase is stock, so probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 105” will look “right”. I’m pretty excited to finally get to play with one (the yellow Blazer was already converted when I bought it). Let’s find out together :chevy: |
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