67-68 Suspension
 

After talking with several suspension lift companies, I have more questions than when I started. Nobody seems to be able to tell me why their kits are listed for 69-72 and not back to 67. I have gotten alot of B.S. answers. Who out there knows what is different on the 67-68 trucks?

front springs on 67-68s are the same, rear springs are diffrent than 69-72 rear springs, drop pitman arms for 69+ trucks wont work on the closed knuckle front ends

Dropped pitman arms or raised steering arms. I believe 67/68 need to use a block to lift the stock steering arm. I don't think anything can be done with the pitman arm. Also, aren't dropped drag links available for 67/68?

67-68 suspension
 

breeh, ive got a 67 gmc 3/4 ton with a 4'' lift if u ask any of the dealers u can find them . the diff in the 67.68 are the front springs are longer on 67-68 if i remember correctly and u have a choice of blocks in the rear or springs i didnt have to buy a new arm . mine worked fine on my lift if u go with a 6 lift u will have to buy the arm or link . hope this helps u i got my lift thru reliable auto. 1-800-521-9901 u my have to have a account with them? or try any of the 4x4 mag they dont show the year 67-68 in there but most companys make them.

I've already been through this on my 67 4x4. Front springs are the same on 67-68 as the later years. Either 44" or 46" eye to eye, can't remember off the top of my head. Rear springs are different on 67-68 like 68SWB4X4 said. 69 and later are 52" springs eye to eye and 67-68 have 56" springs. I put an 8" lift on my truck and used 69-up front springs made by Skyjacker (softride springs). The rear springs I had to have custom built for my application. There were some 3/4ton applications around 69-70 that also used a 56" rear spring but the eye bolts are different and the centering pin on the springs are offset (not centered) as they are on the 67-68 springs. If you wanna go higher that 4", you will need to do some steering mods such as drop pitman arm or draglink. I do believe a drop draglink will work on the stock steering but a drop pitman arm will not. Simply convert to a later model steering box and you might be able to get some drop that way. I highly recommend converting to a crossover steering assembly. It works soooo nice on my truck with zero bump steer problems and relives the stress on the frame at the steering box. Stock steering tends to bind and stress the frame at the steering box.

If you have any questions or need pics of how I converted mine, please don't hesitate to email me. I would be happy to help.

By the way Shagster, thanks for all your help you have giving me in the past. 68SWB4X4 is a wealth of info on these older 67-68 setups.

Thanks everybody for the information. I am not looking for alot of lift. Mainly, I want to update to more current spring technology and replace my tired ones. I crawled under that '68 short step that I just purchased and the bushings are shot or gone. I thought this might me a good opportunity to replace bushings, shackles and springs.

thanks for the praise pont! im thinking about the crossover setup for my 68 for when i get to that...... sense the frame is already messed up...... id apprecite you shooting me the info Pont

breeh check out www.offroaddesign.com they sell HD shackles, greasable bushings etc

Shag, just holler when your ready. I'll go over all the stuff I did to mine and what parts I used. I'll even send detailed pics if you want them.

All the steering rods I'm using now are just a mock-up for the actual parts I will replace them with. Going with either polished stainless or chrome steering rods, haven't decided yet. The parts I'm using now are working great so if your not in a hurry to do yours, I could send these to you when I replace them with the shiny stuff. Let me know............

Rob

right when you said that i had the exact same thought than you offered further down, lol
yeah id for sure e intrested..... my truck isnt going anywhere deffintly not in a hurry!
thanks

Brent;

How did the drive home in your new 68 go? Sorry I missed you. I had 2 long baseball games and slipped out to car show late in the afternoon and the weather as you know wasn't good for a nice car show. Lots of no-shows and many left earlier. Made it up to Battleground Sun morning and picked up my snb parts bed. Cruise friday nite was ok. Next one is bigger anfd better in Roseburg on July 6th (Graffitti Nights). Also should be a chevy truck show in Salem in mid to late July. Post some photos and description of your new 4x4 when you get a chance.

Robert,
The trip was very uneventful which was a good thing. You were right about the leaves in the vents. I got going down the highway at about 60 mph and decided to open a vent and got barraged with leaves and crud. It got in my eyes and I couldn't see. The cab which was clean, was now very dirty.

The truck is nice. I am happy with it. Rust free means different things to different people. I crawled underneath when I picked it up and the rocker rust was repaired with fiberglass. So it is just like every other one I have seen as far as where the typical rust begins.

In the glovebox I found the "For Sale" sign that the owner had on the truck (I did indeed buy it from a wholesaler). He was asking $3,450.00! The wholesaler was hoping to get $7000.00 from the auction. The guy that I was bidding against e-mailed me and asked if I would sell it to him for a profit. I had to decline.

The truck needs some TLC on some little things but all in all it is a sharp truck.

I want in on this crossover business. I still get a lot of bumpsteer while driving my K5 even with the dropped steering arm and steering stabilizer. Are you going to have these shiney new parts fabricated? If so put an order in for 2 sets. lol

Hey Leroy, 2 sets, coming right up! lol

I'm trying to come up with some chrome or SS tubing (steering rods) that are larger outside diameter than stock, but will still accept stock tie-rod ends. More for looks than strength. If you have seconds thoughts about going with a crossover steering set-up, DONT! It's the only way to go in my opinion, and I had to be talked into doing it on my truck. Now I would never go back to stock. It 100% eliminates bump steer problems and also takes all that stress off the frame at the steering box. Can't imagine why GM didn't go with this set-up in the first place. If you too would like details on what I did and what parts I used, just shoot me an email or request the info on this post. It's basically a bolt in set-up other than a little weldinging (very little) and using different parts than stock (meaning the steering box and pitman arm). A little fabrication goes along ways for a far superior steering setup. I love mine!

Pont - I would be interested in the info on what you did for steering. Thanks.

Yes, some info would be much appreciated. I'm always interested in better ideas, especially if their shiney. lol

Yukon & LeRoy, when I get home from work, I'll post some pics and list the parts I used.

Ok guys, first thing I changed was the steering box. Got rid of the stock manual box and put a power steering box on from a 77 Chevy PU 2wd. I used a 2wd box because of pitman arm clearance with the frame. My first thought was to use a 2wd pitman arm on a 4wd box but the shaft is different and one won't fit on the other. From the pitman arm, I used a second tie-rod (same as the long tie-rod out front that goes from the left wheel knuckle to the right wheel knuckle) and cut it down and welded a tie-rod to the end of it. It only has adjustment on the pitman arm side but that's ok, these parts are only a mock-up til I replace it with the shiny stuff. These parts are currently on my truck and I have been driving it daily this way for a couple months now, no problems at all. Then I removed the steering arm (mounts to the drivers knuckle stock) and cut the end off it, welded and bolted it to the pad on the passenger knuckle and connected the tie-rod I just made. The original tie-rod that runs out front (the one my steering stabilizer is mounted to) is completely stock and unmodified. All you are basically doing is getting rid of the PUSH type steering that is stock on the drivers side and moving it over the the passenger knuckle so that steering for both wheels is controlled from the passenger side. Works slick!

Looking from drivers side along the custom made tie-rod connected at the passenger side knuckle.

Closer shot of the cut steering arm piece welded and bolted to the pad on the passenger knuckle.

Thanks! Hadn't remembered to check this post so glad you mentioned it to me. Looks like a slick setup. Right now my steering is actually pretty good but you know the sickness has you always wanting a little more height. I will archive this for future reference. Definitely post the shiny setup once it's installed.

lol, will post the shiny when done. Hope the info and pics helped. Don't hesitate to ask any questions you may have!

found another pic of the steering.

Pont - thanks for the additional pic. Are pretty satsified with the RS9000's. I'm getting so much bounce now that I added the extra springs to my rear pack that I'm thinking of making a change to the RS9000's. From what I hear they are great. Always good to hear from someone using them before making a change.

Yukon, overall I'm really happy with the 9000's. With 5 settings, I'm running the fronts on #3 and the rears on #2. I've tried about every combination and it's best where I have it set now. Any softer and it bounces too much. And harder and it's really rigid. For the most part, it's still a semi-rough ride but still better than the stock suspension. Wish I had a smoother ride but it's just not gonna happen with that much suspension under my truck.

I think you would be happy with the 9000's and notice a difference but they won't make your truck ride like a Caddy. Bummer :(

Better not make it ride like a caddy - it's a truck after all!

I would just like to control some of the bounce I get. Seems the harmonics must go crazy at about 20-35 mph cause it can get to bucking like a rodeo bronc. That would be nice to get under control.