Starter Issues - Heat Soak
 

Yesterday the weather got up into the high 80's here in Central California and I was getting my truck ready for one of the local shows this upcoming weekend in Fresno, doing some tuning and carburetor adjustments.

After running the engine for about 30 minutes, I shut it off and tried to turn it over again and all I got was click, click. Nothing!!

I have a SBC 383 using the 2 1/2" center dump manifolds. The starter is a professionally rebuilt, cast-iron high torque model that GM used back in the 60's and it bolts onto the bell-housing and not the block. I had tried one of the mini-starters but gave up as I couldn't get it aligned.

I wish I could say that this is the first time this heat soak problem has come up but the problem goes back over 35 years, according to my dad. He has done a heat shield wrap on it himself and the results were marginal and unpredictable.

I am going to change over to a Powermaster 9112 type starter, upgrade the cables to a 00 gauge, multi-strand wire direct from the battery and then install a 30 amp relay with 8 gauge wire from the ignition switch. Hope to have it running by Friday.

I'm looking for input on this process and mainly concerned with how to align this mini-starter to my 168 tooth flex plate (I am running a 4 speed manual).

Any horror stories and/or lessons learned with starter issues is appreciated...cuz getting stuck on the side of the road sucks!!!

Tom

Re: Starter Issues - Heat Soak
 

Others will say --no, don't do it, but I've always had luck with a ford solenoid wired in like in this link.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=363603

Always worked for me.

Re: Starter Issues - Heat Soak
 

x2, what geezer said

Re: Starter Issues - Heat Soak
 

That's an interesting concept...I have a 400 amp solenoid on the wire going from the battery to the starter now, that activates through a relay when the key is turned on (and not in the "start") position. Which means if the key is on...I have current from the battery to the solenoid. I did this so someone couldn't jump start the truck from the starter and steal it.

I'd only have to change 1 wire to try this out and put a jumper from the main post on the starter solenoid to the starter post on the solenoid.

Interesting idea...but isn't the problem I'm having due to starter absorbing all the heat? Or are you suggesting its because of the cabling being hot is causing the problem?

Re: Starter Issues - Heat Soak
 

It's mostly the solenoid that doesn't like all the heat.

Re: Starter Issues - Heat Soak
 

in electricity, heat increases resistance. the way I understand it, the added resistance in the solenoid apparently makes the amperage available through the start wire from the ignition switch to be inadequate to trigger the solenoid.

in post 7 of the link geezer gave you, note how that the wiring of the remotely mounted solenoid allows the oem solenoid to get its power directly from the main power cable.

an added benefit is that your ignition switch doesn't have to carry a momentary high load

this explains the mechanisms involved in making a starter work: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
I can't tell you how many times I had to read this to finally grasp the concept :D

Re: Starter Issues - Heat Soak
 

I found the information here really helpful. However, I have solved the problem.

It turns out that this "hi toque" original starter was not up to the task.

I ended up running a Powermaster 9112 Starter with 1/0 gauge directly from the battery to the post on the solenoid. Ran a 12 gauge straight off the key to the trigger wire. Let me tell you, this 9112 is the REAL DEAL.

I just touch the key and it fires almost immediately and without any hesitation. Drove it last weekend to a little car event in the foothills. Parked the truck, hit the key and it fired right up. No more heat soak!

I told my dad he should have gotten rid of that starter 30 years ago...

Thanks for the help fellas!

Tom