putting it back together
 

Had the trans out and did my first rebuild ....
Swapped the oil pan to FBODY
Did the wiring harness.

That was all over 6 months probably ......
Now I need to put it all back toghetehr ..... trans on engine .... engine and trans in truck.

Any tips ?
Thinking things like

* making sure I dont miss a bolt
* Doing in correct sequence
* accessories like starter after TRANS is on engine
* Ensure all grounds are regrounded - although most probably done at engine harness time
* Alignemnt to rear for driveshaft.
* Height and positioning generally.
*TQ Convertor properly seated - how to do and tell
* Whatever Im not thinking of
Its a 57 Suburban and 4l60e trans to a LQ4.

I had heard somewhere need to make sure the trans pan is flush with the engine before you mount trans so you dont crack the pan ..... well .... it mostly looks flush/square ..... but there is a little ridge in middle behind flexplate.

Re: putting it back together
 

I screwed up once and failed to fully seat a torque converter. The resounding "BANG!" when I tightened the trans bellhousing bolts told me I'd broken the trans pump and had to pull everything apart and get it rebuilt again.

And I'm still trying to remember if I tightened the flex plate bolts on my current engine...:confused:

Re: putting it back together
 

good point miracle. thats something lots of guys have done with the converter. carefully slide the converter into the trans until it bottoms lightly, then, with slight inward pressure, turn the converter until it "clunks" into place in the pump drive. at this point it should also push further into the pump housing as well. this is because the drive lugs on the pump slip into the recessed areas of the converter and allow the converter to fully seat. if in doubt try installing the converter a couple times on an old trans without the front seal in place, you can see the pump drive easily that way.
sometimes a good idea is to mark the bolts with a pint pen after they have been torqued properly, then,months later, you just have to take a quick look to see if the bolts got tightened up properly.

Re: putting it back together
 

Thanks

I followed these instructions

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html

Worked well. Seated 3 times ...... got the exact measurements.

The stud/sortof bolts that go into the bellhousing ..... they have a nut built into them. But at the end - I did have 3 nuts left over ...... I *think* they go on 3 of the studs ... but not sure why as Ic ant remember when i took them off. eg not sure if they clamp anything down like a ground strap or anything ......

I've got to deal with a broken manifold stud in the head now.

After that probably the engine alignment for rear drive angle and engine mounts.
I think the rule is 3 degrees decline right ........ need to look that back up.
How about height - how much clearance should the front of pan have above the crossmember generally. Another thing I wasn't paying attention on when removed.

Re: putting it back together
 

That guy puts out some great advice for anyone putting a converter in.

One thing I have found that saves a lot of fighting with the trans trying to get it connected to the block is to use a couple of longer (several inches) bolts in the two bottom bellhousing bolt holes as guides. I usually get the trans up close and run the bolts in and then slide the trans forward, get it up tight to the block and put the rest of the bolts in. A couple of guys have said that they cut the ends off a pair of bolts and cut a screw driver slot in the end to back them out and just slide the belhousing over them. Either way it saves a fight when you put them together.

Re: putting it back together
 

like mr48 says, I too have a couple of longer bolts with the heads cut off and a slot cut in the end where the bolt head used to be. screw them in first, put a little lube on the torque converter snout, then the trans can sit on those alignment bolts and slide up to the engine block nice and easy. when done, simply unscrew the alignment bolts with a flat blade screwdriver and install the correct length bolts. sorta like using a clutch alignment tool, everything slides together lined up like it should be.
note:
never try to "suck" the trans into the engine block with the bell housing bolts. it should be easy to butt up against each other. if not, check to ensure you don't have an extra alignment dowel stuck in the trans, transferred from the last engine it was used with, or a build up of corrosion in one of the dowel holes to it's now a press fit, or, worst case scenario, your torque converter has moved and become disconnected from the trans pump drive. this has caused MANY trans bell housings to break or trans pump body damage

Re: putting it back together
 

another cause can be that the crankshaft was used with a standard trans in the last application and the pilot bearing is still in the end of the crankshaft hole where the snout of the torque converter is supposed to fit into. lots of guys have overlooked this little item.

Re: putting it back together
 

the trans bolts with the extra "stud" are for mounting the trans dipstick on the pass side and also the fuel lines on the drivers side of the engine. there may be a few other things that would be application specific as well but that is up to you at the time of install. some guys will use a stud at each location so they have the future opportunity to use the stud if required later for something unforeseen. a vacuum plug over the stud threads will keep it looking good plus keep the firewall from damage upon engine install