383 rod recommendedations
 

I am building a “budget” 383 and plan on using 5.7in rods. Can anyone recommend a connecting rod?
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

For the budget I'd just use a factory 350 rod and have them resized and balanced with everything else

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

I had a “healthy” 406 built and used stock rods. Use ARP bolts and get em resized and you’ll be fine.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Stock 5.7 rods will take quite a bit of abuse. I've had drag cars with stock rods and ARP bolts in them that survived for many years. The stock bolts are your weak link.

Gary

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

So just use stock rods and clearance them?
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

In theory the engine with a longer rod will make more power than an engine with shorter rods and a long rod motor will generally last longer.

But I understand the "Budget" approach that I am hearing.

What crankshaft are you going to use ?

How far in the hole are you wanting the pistons to be ?

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Personally I don't like how much some of the rod bolt heads on the stock 5.7 rods need to be clearanced for a 3.75" stroke. I've used the Scat 25700 capscrew rods with a 3.75" stroke and those still needed to be clearanced slightly with a standard base circle cam.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

5.7" rods and ARP bolts equaled needing a small base circle cam in my 383.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

I am in the process of building a 383 and the shop who did the balancing and machine work to the block had no concerns when I asked them about using my stock rods.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Internally balanced Eagle 103503750571 crank. Hadn’t gave much thought to how far in the hole pistons needed to be. Found some decent 6in stroker rods but unable to find pistons. I plan on having stock 4in bore, so not quite 383.
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Yeah a 3.750" stroke 4.00" bore piston for a 6" rod may be difficult to find.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Have you had the block checked already ? New ? Used ?

Do you know it will be good at a 4 inch bore ?

Go .030 over and get the pistons you need with a 6 inch rod. call it a 383 !!!

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

You might even consider getting a HT383 short block.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Used almost mint 4.00in bore block

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

IMO, you are spinning your wheels not just buying a complete kit. The Eagle Internally Balanced 383 kit from Competition Products is only $819. Figure $150 labor plus $75 in rod bolts to rebuild the stock rods. Most shops get $150-$200 to balance. All that included in better rods and it is internally balanced using a zero rate balancer and flywheel/flexplate. (That is made clear in the print catalog more so than the online listing)

http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../#.W47ogOhKjIU

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

I am with Mike C, for the price of the kit and to use your almost mint 4 inch bore. 819 bucks, thats a budget build for sure !!!

Only problem is you can not call it a 383, but call it a 377.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

As cheap as "custom" pistons are these days I would figure out your deck height, rod length and crank throw all measured of course and do the math to order up a set of pistons to zero deck this unit after you have the decks straightened if they need it. The factory stuff might have the pistons .030 in the hole costing you compression and power.

Just slapping some off the shelf stuff gets you a run of the mill unit. Did you ever wonder why some engines seem to make more power and just run better. A real blueprint job makes a world of difference.

The top line sez it all. Give em a call, well worth your time.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Thanks for the chart. The whole reason I didn’t get a “kit” was I got the crank cheap. Gave a buddy a “junk” 305 and payed $100 for the crank.
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

OK, next question. Is the crank an old SB400 crank turned down? Is it an aftermarket crank? And if so is it internally or externally balanced?

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

post #10

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Sorry, somehow missed that one.......

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Crank is NIB
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

If you must have a 6" rod, I would weigh the cost of having the block bores and honed versus having custom pistons made. Or just go with a 5.7" rod.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Balancing is the real issue. Sell the crank to someone else. Buy complete kit. That would still be my advice. Unless your machine shop works really cheap (Right Cheap Machine Shop! LOL) the costs for balancing will have you spending more than buying the Eagle kit. If you want to save a few bucks, the externally balanced kit is almost $100 cheaper and it comes with a street balancer and flexplate.

Money where your mouth is, I've been shopping and that Eagle internally balanced setup is where my money will go.

Re: 383 rod recommendedations
 

Whats the big deal bout balancing? local building charges $100 and is VERY reputable. He does everything engine related. No real need to go to internal balance if don't have to. If the stock crank is good, have it turned. Put some ARP rods bolts in stock 5.7" rods, ends resized. Get what ever pistons, get a new stock balancer and flexplate, get rotating assembly balanced. Assemble motor, roast tires off.