700R4 build thread.
 

I'm starting a new build thread for my 1993, 700R4. I've never built a transmission before, but Clinebarger has been gracious enough to offer his help and advice through this. I'll try to keep a photo record as I do this and post them here.
Wish me luck.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

So, this is the way the transmission looks now. Pulled it from the wrecking yard and haven't even washed it off yet.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Promising core, Notice the 3/8" cooler line fittings....Definitely late B-body TBI with tow package/police package.

need to build support fixture off your work bench, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=490570

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

YES on the support fixture. I have that whole thread saved in my bookmarks. I also want to make a pump puller, rear spring assy compressor and the wire & copper tube 'thingy' that you use to work the seals in.
Tow package/police package? Would that mean heaver clutches and/or other parts?
Also, I read someplace that there were a couple of changes in the 1993's (Not the 'E' versions) that were different from the 92's. Have you heard that?
Thank you in advance for all this. I'd be lost without someone knowledgeable to keep me out of trouble.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Looking forward to seeing this thread

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Subscribed :)

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Same here:)

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Easily identified by the round 5 pin TCC connector instead of the usual square four pin. All RWD cars got it in '93 while the trucks went to the electronic shifted version.

There is an extra switch on the valve body but other than that I don't think there's much difference from the earlier versions.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Bigdav160, IIRC the B-bodies retained the 4 pin TCC connector in '93 because it was still TBI? I know the F-body & Y-body got the 5-pin TCC plug. Maybe mistaken...Don't build '93 cores everyday.

Tow package/police package means just better cooling, Bigger lines with auxiliary cooler. No internal upgrades over the '92.

Don't order ANY parts until the unit is torn down & inspected, Need to get the unit hung, CHECK endplay First! Endplay spec is .015" to .036". This is more of a Note to get a base reading for the final endplay & selective endplay washer selection during the build. Take this measurement with the input shaft pointed up, Set the dial indicator to zero, Pull up on the Input shaft to get the reading.

Next step is remove the Governor, You will forget later when the back half gets pulled & the Governor gear gets broke...Ask me how I know:lol:.

Next is the 2-4 band servo, Compress the piston into the case, Remove the Wire snap ring, With a pair of pliers work the cover out until it stops. This will expose the o-ring seal through the slots in the case. Using an awl, Pull on the O-ring though the opening (This will stretch the O-ring making it smaller) With the pliers, Work the cover out of it's bore.

The 4th apply piston will come out with the cover, Remove the 2nd apply piston & Pin & return spring from the case, Stack it in order on your bench out of the way. See diagram....I going to use drawings as much as I can.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Okay. It'll be a few days to get a bench cleared off and a hanger built.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

A couple of quick questions:
1. When you have a transmission go out, it's a good idea to have the 'trans cooler' portion of the radiator flushed, or, get the radiator replaced?
2. Adding a friction modifier to transmissions that have a lockup torque convertor?
Any thoughts?
Neither of these are critical just now, I just want to get the questions out there for later.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Usually a good flush is good enough, Get some brake clean or A/C flush & flush both ways, Flush until clean..Then flush again;).

Dexron 3 ATF has all the friction modifiers needed.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Just to add.. Get some a/c flush. Its 10 times more potent than brake clean and will remove everything. We use it at work for cleaning all kinds of stuff. Our a/c part suppliers a can or two with every order.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Next step is to remove the pan, filter, Lock-up solenoid & harness, Control valve body, Auxiliary valve body, 2nd accumulator, Separator plate, 4th accumulator, & 2-4 band anchor.

The pan & filter are self explanatory,
Remove Forward clutch accumulator feed pipe...The only pipe in there.
Remove Lock-up solenoid (white arrow) & harness.
Remove the 13mm headed bolt that holds the manual detent lever spring (not shown, But the green arrow is where it will be.

Remove the Control valve body bolts (orange dots) 10mm heads.
Remove the TV valve actuator assembly.
Remove Control valve body.
There will be 2 check balls laying on the separator plate. Remove those.

Remove the Aux. valve body bolts (Yellow dots), 3 10mm headed & 1 8mm headed, The 8mm headed one is EASILY rounded off from jerks over tightening.
There will be 1 check ball under it.

Remove the 2nd Accumulator, (Blue dots) 10mm heads.

Remove Separator Plate & both gaskets, Keep the gaskets!

Remove 4th accumulator piston, Pull the center pin with pliers, Then the piston & spring.

There will be 4 check balls in the case, Remove them.

Remove the 2-4 Band anchor, Can't miss it, Metal plug looking thing under the separator plate. I use a magnet.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Accumulators & Separator Plate details, This is a 4L60E, But same concept.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Another question. On the cooler line fittings you said 3/8" and my old TH350 had, I believe, 5/16" lines. So, do I replace the lines, get adapters for the fittings or replace the fittings with smaller ones?

I'm also putting together some of the tools I'll need and working on making a transmission hanger mount.
The local radiator shop will flush the trans cooler side for $25.00. It's a fairly new radiator so I don't think I'll need a complete flush. That would run $45.00

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Just take the fittings out of the TH350 & install them in the 700R4.

Have them flush the cooler. Don't forget to flush the lines.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

BAD news guys. The building I'm living in was just recently sold. I got a chance to talk to the new owners yesterday. ABSOLUTELY NO working on any vehicles here. SO, now I have a truck I can't drive and no place to work on it. I'm not sure what to do at this point, but I'll keep you all posted if I figure out a solution.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Build the transmission inside. If they aren't there to watch constantly throw the trans back in in the evening or at night. It sounds like its time to find a new place to be. If this is your hobby your current situation isn't going to work. Do you have a garage or workshop?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I don't have a garage or a workshop. Just a 4' x 9' storage space. And, the new owner has moved in to unit #4. Right next door. I've been looking for another place to move. $120.00 application fee (NON refundable) First and last months rent = $1900.00

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Is it in the lease? If not they can't in force the no working on vehicles. I been though this at my old apartments. They tried this and all I was doing was installing a battery and then changing a flat tire they tried to evict me over and the courts said it wasn't in the lease they can enforce it.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

THIS x100. They cant just decide what they do and don't like. Aside from that sale of property DOES NOT void a previous lease. The new owners have to honor the old lease unless you signed a new lease with their stipulations.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Actually, the NO working on cars IS in the old lease, (I just looked) but the old owner didn't enforce it. I talked to my buddy Chris. He said I could rebuild the transmission at his house. If I can figure out a way to get there. lol

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I'm going to continue this thread to help others that may want to tackle a 700R4...

Next step is to pull the front pump, Remove the 13mm headed bolts, A pump puller is preferred, But a bearing splitter can be used as well, Both these methods require clamping onto the stator support tube (arrow in the pic).

The other method is to rock the pump out with a flat blade screwdriver & dead blow hammer, Get under the pump with the screwdriver, lightly pry up while tapping the input (turbine) shaft with the dead blow. Use patience!!!
The pump is tougher to remove with 1 piece Teflon seals, If the unit has Scarf Cut seal...It will be easier.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Once the pump is out, You will see the Reverse Input Drum, Most of the time the plastic Trust Washer will stay behind on top of the reverse input drum, Remove it & sit it with the pump.

Grab the Input shaft & pull up...Removing the Input drum & reverse input drum.

This will expose the 2/4 Band, Remove it.

1st pic....With the pump removed
2nd pic...The Reverse input & Input drum.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

That's a good idea. I'll try to catch up later.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Removing the front drums will expose the Input planetary & Reaction Sun shell.

NOTICE. If there is a plastic Thrust Washer on top of the Input planet, The Unit has a (small) early Forward Sprag assembly, IF you upgrade to a '87 & later Sprag assembly....DO NOT install this Thrust Washer upon assembly.

If the Input Sun gear is left behind in the Input planet, Remove it. Later (90's)units have the input sun gear "snap-fitted" to the sprag assembly.

Remove the Yellow snap ring (pic), Pull the Output shaft out the rear of the case.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Input Sun Gear still in the planet upon disassembly....If you have a Early or Mid-Year forward sprag assembly.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

OK. The output shaft is out, Time to pull the Input planet, Carrier & Sun shell. Grab the Sun shell from the inside 180 degrees apart & pull up.
This will expose the Center Support, Low/Reverse Sprag, & Reaction Sun Gear.
Remove Reaction Sun Gear.

On stock unit's There will be a plastic thrust washer on the low/reverse sprag race, The outlined arrow is pointing at the race, Place this thrust with the sun shell.

Remove the snap ring holding the Center Support (Yellow arrow).

Re-insert the output shaft, One good (Square) hit with a 3 pound sledge will separate the Center Support, Reaction planet, Carrier, & Low/reverse clutch stack, Pull the whole assembly from the top.

Red arrow is the Anti-Clunk spring, Might have a "Case Saver" heavy T looking piece.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Chris, I am impressed with your pictures/diagrams with arrows and everything!

or....did your daughter do this for you????

Ok, Im sorry, I just couldnt help myself!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

After you take us through the initial rebuild, can you talk about shift modifications?
I found this video, but I'd like your opinion on shift kit upgrades.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B8nyfrFKyo

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Actually she taught he how, I did it all by myself, If I ever learn to dress myself...I will be in good shape:lol:

I will go in depth if you want, That video had some way out dated practices, B&M still does that to this day.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Cool. Although I won't be doing any racing (To damn old) I know others would like to beef up the trans for racing and towing. From what I understand, which isn't much, faster/harder shifts actually prevent clutch slipping and helps transmission life. Am I on the right track here?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

To a point you are correct, Most people go WAY overboard, Like the guy in the video Blocking the Line Bias valve & running a larger Boost Valve. Block the Bias & run a .500 Boost valve....You WILL break $hit, I promise;)

The Line Bias valve is used to match the Line Pressure Rise to the Torque Rise of the engine as a Variable Bleed & as a Safety Blow-off if the TV valve sticks. The TV Boost valve size controls overall clutch line pressure in proportion to TV valve movement. I guess its a short cut around actually tuning the line bias in with heavier spring/s to match.

What sky high line pressure does to a 2-4 band at a WOT 1-2 shift behind a ZZ430.....

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Subscribed

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Now you will be looking at the Low/Reverse return spring assembly & Piston.
Compress the Return spring cage, Remove Snap Ring, Remove Return spring assembly.
Pics 1 & 2 show the spring compressor tool & usage, You can make a tool similar. Or Youtube/Google.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Apply air to the Reverse feed hole, The Low/Reverse piston will pop up, Remove piston.

These are 4L60E pics, 700R4 is very similar.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Now that the case is bare, Clean the case thoroughly, Having it ran through parts washer is a good idea. Remove the 2 thimble filters from the case. 1 at the rear of the case (Governor feed) & one toward the front (TCC solenoid feed), Before cleaning

Time to leak check the 3rd Accumulator check ball assembly, It is absolutely critical to check this, If it is leaking it will only be a matter of time before the 3/4 clutches burn down.

The valve body face needs to be pointing straight up.
Install 2/4 servo assembly in servo bore.
Install servo cover and retainer, then pour a suitable solvent into the accumulator bore. Observe for leakage inside case. *Pic.
If leakage is observed, replace 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly.

Remove 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly using a number 4 screw extractor.
Install new check ball assembly, small end first into case, positioning oil feed slot in sleeve facing servo cover.

Using suitable tool, drive check valve assembly until seated in case. To ensure correct installation depth, scribe a mark at 1.653 inch on a 3/8 inch diameter metal rod, then seat the 3rd accumulator and ball assembly as shown. When the scribed line is flush with the case, Installation depth is correct.

The AC-Delco part# is 8634400 if new check ball assembly is needed.

Red arrow is the 3rd accum. exhaust port, It the valve is leaking...Solvent will leak out here. The white arrow is the Bleed orifice...Solvent will leak here...Normal condition.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Replace the rear Case Bushing, Knock it out from the rear of case, Install from the front, Not that 700R4's are bad about Case Bushing walk-out like a TH400/4L80E. But procedure is procedure. I use my camshaft bearing installer handle to drive the Bushing Installer & Bushing. I use a Seal/Bearing tool to drive it out.

If ever in doubt, Measure the depth of the Bushing before removal.

Didn't get a pic of my installer, But how many people have a Cam Bearing knocker handle?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Time for part inspection & Parts ordering. We will start from the bottom & work to the top.

Reaction (Rear) Planetary assembly is a high wear item.

1.Inspect the reaction carrier/support thrust bearing assembly (683) for damage.
2.Inspect the reaction gear support to case bearing (692) for damage.


3.Inspect the internal reaction gear (684) and the internal reaction gear support (685) for proper assembly, stripped splines, cracks, teeth, and lug damage.


4.Check the reaction carrier pinion end play. The end play must not exceed 0.61 mm (0.024 inch). Inspect the reaction carrier for the following conditions:
•Pinion gear damage
•Proper pinion staking
•Excessive pinion washer wear
•Keystoned pinion gears
5.Ensure that the pinions turn freely.


6.Inspect the reaction carrier captive thrust bearing for wear or damage.

6.1. Without touching the pinion gears, place a bushing or an output shaft sleeve (690) onto the bearing race, and turn it with the palm of your hand.
6.2. Any imperfections will be felt through the bushing.