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- - S10 frame (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=751928)

Ok, I got a frame and now was wondering what people are using to cut the front horns off. I have a plasma cutter and an ox/acetylene torch, but I'm not as steady as I'd like. I could figure out how to put a jig on the frame to make a straight cut.

I have plenty of cut off discs, but I'd prefer not to use those if there is a cool tool that would make it easy.

So if there is a cool tool that would make it easy, I'd like to know.

sawzall! I use the 9 inch blades 18tpi

if you clamp a straightedge to the frame the plasma will cut nicely.

I have a 6" metabo grinder I use with slicer blades too. make sure you wear gloves and a face shield AND goggles. binding a blade is a fast way to have a bad time.

I clamped a piece of steel to the frame as a straight edge then used that as a guide for my plasma cutter. For more complex shapes, I have cut a template out of wood.

Thanks. I was thinking of the jig for the plasma, but the sawzall may be easiest.

if you use a sawzall, mark the straight lines so you can follow them, sometimes I think I am cutting super straight and square and it ends up a tetrahedron. :lol: (yes I know a tetrahedron is a triangle but saying polyhedron or cube doesnt convey the wacky fun house cut look)

if I can give you another piece of advice, pull the steering box bolts (you dont have to disconnect the lines or the steering arm, just take out the bolts and swing it)

then cut it like an L just past where the steering box ended, so that its long on the bottom. cutting it just past the box is nice for the air director and leaving it longer on the bottom is nicer for bumper brackets.

Good suggestions. It is probably more of use what you have available than anything else.

One of my buddies in Texas used to clamp a piece of angle iron to what ever he wanted to cut with a torch and could cut straight smooth lines with it but that may have had a lot to do with his skill with the torch too. That was before many of us had sawzalls and I hadn't seen anyone use cut off disks then. He even welded everything with his Lincoln 225 welder.

I used my trusty angle grinder with a cutting disc. I made a tape line first. Due to the funny curves on those frame horns, it was deceptively hard to make them straight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse Z (Post 8097868)

I used my trusty angle grinder with a cutting disc. I made a tape line first. Due to the funny curves on those frame horns, it was deceptively hard to make them straight.

Same as above. Nice and slow, cut off disk will go through just about anything. Why complicate things with jigs and tools haha.

clean up surrounding area so sparks won't cause problems, fire extinguisher at the sidelines,

tape the frame, mark your lines on the tape with thin pen or pencil, have a good light set up on the area. or use felt marker on the frame and scribe a good deep line so it is easily seen and followed with the zip disc when sparks are flying. I have found that tape can peel off as you cut, so for longer cuts that get the metal hot a scribed line is better. it also picks up and reflects the light so it can be seen better on a dark background-like felt marker gives

face shield, safety glasses, long sleeves and gloves on. coveralls hopefully

angle grinder with narrow zip disc, cut across the top part of the frame and down the sides a bit just to keep the line-say 1/2 inch or so, if there is a particularly tough spot to get to then do that spot first as well. like next to a cross member. quickly tack weld a spot or two in the middle of that top cut just to hold the part from falling down as the cut gets longer and allowing the weight of the part to bend the frame as the part falls.

then do the cut across the bottom underside so you are not under the part when it is ready to fall off or working on a spot that wants to be bent as the part falls (the tack weld at the top should help with this though) or doing the upside down hard cut last. again-cut around the corner by a bit so the line is easy to follow and connect the dots from the top to the bottom.

remember if the part is allowed to bend and fall off as you cut, this can distort the cut and cause you to have a non-square ending. it can also cause the disc to get jammed in the cut and those thin discs disintegrate quickly leaving parts embedded in your hand or body-through a welding glove even (don't ask how I know). if you are cutting off a larger piece or the two sides are connected somehow then support the part coming off somehow. also don't forget to consider how the weight of the cut off part will affect the rest of the frame-will it move as the weight of the part is lost?

do the side cuts next-connect the top cut to the bottom cut
when it is all cut off then grind out the tack welds from the top and the part should fall on the ground. a couple of old 2x4's or plywood on the floor helps keep the floor from getting chipped if working on concrete

make sense?

Thanks guys. I have started using the cut off wheel on both a 4 1/2" electric grinder and a 3" die grinder for the cab. I look like I'm ready for a Mr Roboto contest, what with all the safety equipment, including the face shield over the safety goggles, leather apron, ear plugs and gloves. For some reason the thought of that disc coming apart at that speed does not make me happy.

Dsraven, that was a very thorough write up on "how to" use the cut off wheel to do this. It all made sense.

Joedoh, are you saying to leave a lip on the bottom of the frame to mount the air dam to?

Now to make time so I can get on this stuff...

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8man (Post 8098046)

Joedoh, are you saying to leave a lip on the bottom of the frame to mount the air dam to?

yes to leave a lip, but not for the air dam to mount. its for the bumper itself, if you trim the frame back too aggressively to make the air deflector fit better (you have to chop it a bit to fit around the steering box and frame rails, but if you dont chop it enough the grille will hit the frame/steering box) then it doesnt leave a lot of room to mount the bumper brackets. leaving some meat on the bottom makes it easier.

Ahh, I think I understand. Thanks.

I was so excited to get those shin busters out of the way. I also used a cutoff wheel on my trusty Makita, and after welding in a plate I used the surface as my lower radiator mount.

Just make sure you know where you want to cut. Measure thrice, cut once. It is always easier to remove than add later...

Thanks! Pictures help me put it all together.

the cross bar for the rad support also helps stiffen the frame rails if you have a flimsy bumper or mounts

I only say that because the steering box is mounted ahead of the cross member so some flex could happen with a light bumper or no bumper

Thank you.

I have to say there are some of the most helpful people on here. This is a great site to learn what one is doing!

robertjims picture is excellent!

there are indeed helpful people here, skymangs did the greatest thing getting the s10 swap thread going.

I have Skymangs thread printed out and was just going through it again. It is making more sense each time. By the time I get the rust cut off the body and the new steel welded to the body, I think I'll be ready to tackle the frame.