Originally Posted by mongocanfly (Post 8500958)

I've been buying my wire off Ebay from welding city...I get the er70s-6...but it's not esab...but I've had no issues welding or grinding

Originally Posted by B. W. (Post 8501235)

X2 on ER70S-6, don't like chinese but that's what I'm burning right now.

Originally Posted by B. W. (Post 8501580)

Thanks for the info, I'd love to find some USA made wire.

Originally Posted by Lanman1972 (Post 8501940)

I have found when grinding welds it works best to use a cutoff type grinder with a 36 grit grinding wheel installed. You can concentrate grinding the weld not the good metal next to it.

Originally Posted by StingRay (Post 8504814)

I use 023 ESAB Easy Grind. More money but it's easier to grind, Stretch the weld seam and less likely to crack on a butt joint.

https://www.esab.ca/ca/en/products/f...easy-grind.cfm

Originally Posted by KMC3420 (Post 8501690)

MP&C gave me some pointers on how to keep the weld bead as small as possible regarding heat and wire speed.

Originally Posted by MP&C

I have run ESAB ER70-S6, ER70-S7 (Spoolarc 87HP) and EZ-Grind. Of the three, I had best results with the -S7, and after that the EZ grind. The S7 has more manganese for better wetting, ie: flowout. Means it will give you a flatter weld for much less to grind. I don't think ESAB still makes it in .023 but I have seen it in .030, although 33 or 44 lb spools. If you are using a 11 lb spool machine, you would need to re-spool the wire.

The only other company I have seen selling the S7 is Blue Devil, but this is made in China and is questionable content, as is anything else from there.

My suggestion to you is to try to get what you're using now to flow better, and lay flatter. Do some practice coupons and increase your heat setting to get good penetration, then if any blowout, add more feed speed. Keep playing with adjustments, and what you are looking for is higher heat, and less time on the trigger. the longer you sit there the more the weld piles up, the more grinding. So play around and see what you can do with more heat, shorter elapsed time on the trigger pull and see if you can get less weld proud. Make sure you're getting full weld penetration, whatever you do.

Originally Posted by MP&C (Post 8505088)

May as well add that info here for others that may be looking....

Originally Posted by MP&C (Post 8505088)

May as well add that info here for others that may be looking....

Originally Posted by 44th Miss Inf (Post 8506682)

I just ordered a 10lb roll of Inefil .023 off eBay, I paid about $7 more than I can get it locally in the Forney 2lb roll (TSC).

I don't deal with the local welding supply due the the owner's dishonesty so not sure on their price.
I need to buy another 80cf C25 bottle. I own a 330cf argon bottle that a place and hour away said would convert / fill with C25, but it's just to big of a bottle to handle anymore.

Originally Posted by trukman1 (Post 8525172)

Can the Infel wire be used on Miller 170/220V machine or is it only used on 120V welders? I've heard I should be using a 120V welder but the 220V has a higher duty cycle rating, Obviously I'm not an experienced welder. Just keep hearing from body shop guys I should have a 120V unit. Want to be sure before buying more wire, Thanks. Not trying to hijack this thread but others may have info to help more than just me especially if they are looking to purchase a unit. Biggest drawback I've found so far with 220 unit is having to have a HD extension cord and 230V outlet.120 is far more versatile for use anywhere. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by trukman1 (Post 8525179)

One more question this brought up...what is "planishing?" Also hear of "proud" when welding. What does that mean? Thanks for the education.

Originally Posted by KMC3420 (Post 8525369)

Planishing is effectively stretching a weld bead or “dot”. When welding sheet metal you want to just weld in one spot for half a second and skip around. This will produce a weld dot as seen in the above pictures. With any weld you have shrinking as the weld cools, when the cooling happens it pulls the surrounding metal and creates a valley. To planish you use the dolly on method and focus only on the weld dot to stretch the dot out, in doing this you are stretching the dot out and moving the surrounding metal back into it’s previous location. Weld proud is the height of the weld bead above the base metal, in the above pictures the weld bead/dot was above the sheet metal, that portion was ground down flush to the base metal to have the appearance of a seamless piece of metal, after planishing. Hope this helps and didn’t further confuse you.

Originally Posted by trukman1 (Post 8525757)

WOW! Thanks for explaining this to me. Makes perfect sense. It's great to have members to help those of us wanting to learn but not knowing where to get the knowledge. I appreciate it very much. I have lots of welding coming up when my son gets home from his deployment in July and, even though I've done a lot of welding on heavy industrial pipe (stick), I don't know anything about welding thin sheet meta body panels. Many thanks!