Truck wonders
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Morning all, well my question is what do I need to add rack and pinion to my truck. I did a LS 6.0 swap in my truck and want it to be more user friendly when I drive. I replaced all the suspension back to factory new. But the truck still wonders and has bump steer when I let off the gas. Thanks
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Your problem might be because your center link is installed backwards. The nuts on the joints should be facing forward. That changes everything.... LockDoc |
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I am in the midst of a bolt in install from Flaming River. I will update you on any difference in driveability. Also, I can’t speak to fitment with an LS. I am installing with a 250 L6 and will require a roughly 1/2 in motor mount lift.
Kevin |
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He said his truck "still wanders and has bump steer when I let off the gas" and I said the problem might be because his center link is installed backwards, which it is, and which could cause the problems he is seeing. He may not need to go to the trouble and expense of installing a rack if correcting that regains his "driver friendliness" Cryptic posts don't add anything to the thread. LockDoc |
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Is that better? LOL! |
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It's a wOnder the truck doesn't wAnder with that thang thataway.
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:haha::haha::haha:
see above = what Doc said or x2 |
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Flip that center link and save a few bucks! With everything new it should drive pretty well.
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LockDoc |
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First off thanks for all the helpful replies. I just came from my new mechanic who's going to switch it around for me we'll see if that solves the problem.
Take a sec to enjoy how far I've come from when I first got this suspension redone on this truck true craftsmanship |
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Yup, don't see that everyday. Reminds me of the Burban I looked at buying that had the springs removed to lower it.
Good job on cleaning that mess up. |
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LockDoc |
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Ok well ****, now I just realized my centerlink is on backwards. More work for me. Yay.
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Any advice on removing the pitman arm and idler arm from the centerlink without ruining my brand new parts and dust boots?
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Or, use the pickle fork as a pry bar while using the air chisel on the tie rod arm. Try to not let the pickle fork contact the rubber with this method. Lastly you could put force pulling the tapered joint(tie rod, Idler, pitman) while hitting the side of the female taper with a large hammer. |
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You need a puller for the pitman arm. Local autozone loans the tool for free. You can also buy it at harbor freight for about $8. Smack the side of the centerlink with a sledgehammer to remove the idler arm, it should pop right out since it’s new. I use a pickle fork on old stuff that’s coming out to be replaced, where damage to the rubber boot doesn’t matter.
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Ok cool. I have a pitman puller, but wasn't planning to pull the pitman arm off the gearbox.
Was thinking: Unscrew each tierod connector, leave the tie rods on the centerlink. Then remove the centerlink from the idler and pitman (tapered side). Then flip it 180. That'd put the tierod bolts frontwards. I can prob make a brass rod to fit into my air chisel. Since they're new, make just smacking the centerlink with a dead blow hammer would free it? IDK, just don't wanna ruin $100 worth of new Moog parts. |
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Hitting it will knock the tapered joint loose but hitting it without pressure pulling it outwards will probably not do anything. They also make a screw type tie rod puller which may fit the idler and pitman arm, I'm just not sure of the fit, they usually don't fit well. If you can borrow one at oreillys or autozone it would be worth a try.
I suspect you have a recent alignment....you could save that alignment by measuring the toe in before you change the parts out and then adjusting to the same spec after the switch. To replicate the toe in, roll the tires over 2 layers of plastic sheeting, thick black garbage bag pieces(reduces friction of tire on the ground), wire a board across each tire through the wheels, measure the distance front and rear of the tire using the boards, subtract front from rear distance to get current toe in. Adjust each side equally to replicate this distance once you switch the parts out. |
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Hasn't been aligned yet, still assembling it.
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So after some more looking around we found this too :waah:
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Wait, are the A-Arms connected to the frame with U bolts?
-Paul |
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LockDoc |
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subscribed, wanna see how this turns out!
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