My Disc Install
 

Ok guys, I did a front disc upgrade on my 69 C10, was not that bad for my first time. Bought my parts from Kragen (california) Parts America or CKS in other states.
Did I save money? Yes and No. Looking back had I bought everything from CPP Classic Performance Products besides my susspension kit, I would have been better off.

Re: My Disc Install
 

I paid 391.00 for rotors, calipers, brake lines, outer tie rods, pads, inner and outer bearings, upper and lower ball joints. Went to CPP and paid 690 for the deluxe drop kit, front and rear sway-bars, front and rear coils, shocks, rear shock mounts and track bar and hardware. Had to go back to CPP 3 times so far. Needed tie rod sleeve, it fits 73 outer tie rods and up to 1970 inner tie rods. The catch, their custom sleeve is left hand thread, so yes my second trip I got there inner tie rods. Had been back to Kragen for inner and took them back. Also, to get the Kragen prices, I had to print out the online prices, then take the page to the store. That way the price online is honnored.

Re: My Disc Install
 

The problem with putting something like this together is everything does not always fit. Thus why its called a project. The paint on my caliper is becaue when I put my rims on, the rubbed against the calipers so I had to grind them down, the ears and part of the body.

Re: My Disc Install
 

Good work and nice pics. Seems wierd seeing disk brakes on a 69:)

Re: My Disc Install
 

I forgot to mention, the brake hoses, the driver side fit my brake line, the passenger side was bigger. I went back to Kragen, re-ordered the line, same size came back, different box. The fix was a reducer that fit the large end and the small end of my brake line. That was the cheapest thing I bought,...$4.30.
Now I've started on the back, got one coil (4 inch drop) in. Tried to take the axels out. After removing the cover I turn the screw that holds the pin in only to find out its broke. I was told that I have to hit the pin with something to break the holding screw and force it out. You can see where I have been hitting the pin. Anyone have any other ideas on how to do this??

My other option is go and get the whole rear end wheels and all of a 73 truck

Re: My Disc Install
 

I was actually just changing the wheel cylnders, but when i got to the fron driver side, I could not get the bolt out and had to take the whole spindle off and go to my friends hop to remove it. After damaging the 37 year old ball joints, I figured it was time for the upgrade.

Re: My Disc Install
 

I've taken a few axles out but never had that problem. I'd probably just say screw it and replace the whole thing if I had one available.

Re: My Disc Install
 

Thats probably whats going to happen. I promise the wife I would not work on the truck tomorrow.
I think she is going to just have to be mad at me. LOL

Re: My Disc Install
 

You won't be alone. I'm sure mine will be mad at me for some reason also.:lol:

Re: My Disc Install
 

when they told you to hit the pin they did'n mean the shaft between the axles. you need to get the rest of the bolt out, (thats holding that shaft in) then slide out the shaft between the axles. happens frequently.

Re: My Disc Install
 

ps, replace that shaft once you get it out, and make sure you get all metal shavings outta there

Re: My Disc Install
 

Yes thats exactly what I was told. I just dont have enough room to swing.
Its getting close, I can see the pin moving, its just going to take me a little longer than I had planned.

Re: My Disc Install
 

Yes thats exactly what I was told. I just dont have enough room to swing.
Its getting close, I can see the pin moving, its just going to take me a little longer than I had planned.

Re: My Disc Install
 

depending on where the bolt broke at, most times you can shoot compressed air into the hole and the rest will come out. you can also use a small magnet, or an easy out. I have seen this dozens of times in the past ten years, and have fixed them all without hammering on that shaft.

Re: My Disc Install
 

The bolt broke with thread still on it. So I probably do need and easy out because im beating the heck out it.

Re: My Disc Install
 

Usually, they break with about 1 thread left on the little bolt. A lot of times, you can take a small pick and stick it down the hole and turn the remainder of the bolt out. They are usualy loose, but they break for some reason. We had this happen a lot on the trucks when I worked for the Postal Service fixing their trucks.

Re: My Disc Install
 

Maybe I will try that. The hammering of the pin is not working for me. If it was on a hoist then maybe. Then I have to start on the body.
Man I love these trucks!!!!:c2:

Re: My Disc Install
 

Despite only wanting to replace wheel cylinders, you went with 5 lug rotors in the front, I'm guessing you'd want to do the same in the rear? If so, you're looking at aftermarket axles with the rear you've got, and at this point would be better off with a 71-72 rear coil spring 12 bolt axle, IMHO. Note: I don't know what a '73 rear would involve.

Re: My Disc Install
 

Nice progress there!

Re: My Disc Install
 

I had planned on changing over to disc this summer, but after I took the spindle apart, it did not make sense to replace the 1969 upper and lower ball joints when I had plans to upgrade in a few months. The only problem with replacing the rear with a 71 or 72 model is they are hard to find or have been stripped clean. It would take me weeks and to search wrecking yards every day to find one. 73-87 is the rotors and calipers that are sold to us by different companies, they just put it together for us to make it easy.

Re: My Disc Install
 

VDOG, can you say again what year inner tie rods you used. In the one of the brake FAQ's someone said the following:

"The sleeve your talking about from CCP allows you you to use 73-87 spindle in 67-72 trucks( Ball joint's must be 73-87) 73-87 outer tie rods and 67-70 outer tie rod for use on the inner is the set-up you will need to use Trust ME."

Is this what you did?

Re: My Disc Install
 

Yes the sleeve from CPP uses 73 outer tie rods and our 69 inner tie rod. Unless you convert the whole thing to 73, tie rods and pitman arms. I also used 73 spindles, ball joints U&L. The brake hoses from a 73 are close to 20 inches, so I used the ones from a 71-72 C10, there the same length as our drum brake hose lines.

Re: My Disc Install
 

VDOG,

how did you route you brake hoses?

I just did the brake upgrade on my 65 and the hoses they sent me were the stock 71-72 hoses and I cant seem to get them routed correctly, so they wont rub on anything moving.

PS anybody planning on doing a disc brake upgrade look at gmc pauls kit. It comes with everything execpt the hard lines from proportioning valve to brake hoses. It comes with stock or 2 1/2 drop spindles (the correct spindles for our year trucks that uses stock ball joints and stock tie rod ends) and 6 lug rotors for 620$ plus shipping. the five lug kit is 10$ cheaper but if you buy the 6lug kit and sell the rotors for easily 100.00 and pick up some stock five lugs rotors from the parts store of choice for cheap the you could easily get this done for approx 500

Re: My Disc Install
 

Looks great, nice job.

Re: My Disc Install
 

Mine are not in the way at all. Are your brake lines 11 inches? If not, then you have the wrong ones. That was my problem with the 73 brake lines, too long. Anywhere from 20 to 23 inches.