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-   -   Initial start (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=647531)

Mv7fd 10-24-2014 07:08 PM

Initial start
 
I want to make sure oil comes up through my pushrods before I button everything back up what are the best ways to do this

geezer#99 10-24-2014 07:56 PM

Re: Initial start
 
Prime it with a drill. Cut down an old dizzy or buy a priming tool.
http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/oil-pump-primer

Just call me Sean 10-24-2014 08:12 PM

Re: Initial start
 
I usually disconnect the coil and crank the engine for a while.

Mv7fd 10-24-2014 08:35 PM

Re: Initial start
 
I bought the tool. 30 bucks

Corts60 10-24-2014 09:45 PM

Re: Initial start
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Just call me Sean (Post 6891435)
I usually disconnect the coil and crank the engine for a while.

Do not do this.

Buy a priming tool as stated above or remove the gear from an old distributor and use that as your tool. The most important part of the store bought priming tool is that it has the middle bushing to complete the oil galley to the top end. Some cheap ones only have the top bushing and rod. You can only prime the bottom end without the middle bushing.

Use a 1/2" corded drill to run the tool. Battery power will not do it. And install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to check that your bearing clearances are as should be. Correct clearances should yield you well over 50 psi on a new build.

Remember the camshaft lobes have no direct oil feed. The get oiled by splash only so it is important to get those RPM's up right when you fire it. Those first 10 seconds are critical, unless you have a roller cam.

Mv7fd 10-24-2014 09:56 PM

Re: Initial start
 
Bought the tool ran it with a cordless drill saw oil on the driver side didn't see it much on the passenger side I assume that is ok

Just call me Sean 10-24-2014 10:10 PM

Re: Initial start
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Corts60 (Post 6891536)
Do not do this.

No explanation, just don't do this? If assembled properly with lube and oil in the right places and the coil not firing so there aren't any loads placed on the bearings I don't see a problem.

Mv7fd 10-24-2014 10:12 PM

Re: Initial start
 
This isn't a complete rebuild either just new cam lifters push rods and rockers so is it as big of that oil isn't coming out of each push rod

Jake Wade 10-25-2014 08:30 AM

Re: Initial start
 
You need to turn engine stopping every 90º until you make a couple revolutions. It takes a little while for oil to come up through all the pushrods.

Mv7fd 10-26-2014 06:54 PM

Re: Initial start
 
started the truck last night. that was a little bit of a pain i had the rockers to tight so it didn't start at first and i had plug wires wrong on the distributor. after getting that all straighten out she fired off had to adjust the timing some wasn't bad i've had it out running around town today runs awesome i don't think i did to bad for my first time ever digging this far into a motor

geezer#99 10-26-2014 07:40 PM

Re: Initial start
 
Did you run it for 20 minutes to break in the cam/lifters?

Mv7fd 10-26-2014 07:44 PM

Re: Initial start
 
Yes I ran it for about an hour last night 30 mins a piece varying RPMS then did it again today 2 times for 10 minutes

chengny 10-26-2014 08:31 PM

Re: Initial start
 
Put heat lamps on the oil pan for a few hours prior to a pre-prime. This will lower the viscosity of the oil.

Pumping that thin oil will be way easier and will also aid immensely in getting flow throughout the entire lube oil system.

For basically the same reasons, heat lamps should also be used if a cam break-in has to be conducted in an unheated garage - during periods of cold weather.

enaberif 10-26-2014 10:07 PM

Re: Initial start
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by chengny (Post 6893446)
Put heat lamps on the oil pan for a few hours prior to a pre-prime. This will lower the viscosity of the oil.

Pumping that thin oil will be way easier and will also aid immensely in getting flow throughout the entire lube oil system.

For basically the same reasons, heat lamps should also be used if a cam break-in has to be conducted in an unheated garage - during periods of cold weather.

I'm going to be using one of these to do as you say and far more efficient than a heat lamp.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...017_3-4top.jpg


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