v8 swap questions
 

ok boys. so a buddy of mine gave me a 305 the other day and i want to swap it into my ol truck. right now i have the straight 6 250 and a 5 spd from an s10. im familiar with where everything goes and what all i can reuse but here is my question. it looks like the 305 doesnt have a spot for a z bar. am i just lookin at it wrong?

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Re: v8 swap questions
 

Do you have the mounts for the I6? If so all you have to do is take off the piece that mounts to the I6 and reuse from the rubber mount to the cross member on the truck. The rubber portion of the mount will match up to the three bolt holes on the left side of your second post. Hope this helps
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im talking about for the clutch. i believe im going to give drilling and tapping a shot.

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Your block is one of them that doesn't have the hole drilled and tapped. It's a straightforward process to do it. You can see the flat pad where it goes. Drilling and tapping cast iron is super easy.
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awesome. im gonna drill and tap it then. i just found another thread with your same exact advice in it. think thats somethin i can do with a regular hand drill?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=455744

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Sure. I've done a few over the years and all I have is regular drills.

Don't be afraid. Measure the thread length on your pivot ball and add a little to that and then put a piece of masking tape on your drill bit to act as a depth guide. That way you can drill the hole without getting all anxious about going too deep.
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Damned if I an remember what size threaded hole it as anymore though. I went and read that thread you dug up. Looks like I couldn't remember back then either.

Back in 94-95 I worked the line in a dealership shop. We were always coming up with a late model (remember that was 20 years ago) TBI engines from here and there. I put some of them in old trucks I built and that's where I first ran into this problem. The later engines were blank like yours where the hole was on earlier blocks.
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genious with the tape. so simple but i never would have thought of that. when my buddy gave me this motor i was happy as hell. but then i noticed it was blank. and i thought i was crazy.

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Sorry to say but the boss for the forward bellcrank stud is not there on that block. It should be forward and below that rectangular boss at the deck surface.

http://www.jims59.com/69belair/image...t_lwr_rear.jpg

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There's enough play in the z bar to allow it to be off that small amount.
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The Captain is talking about the one right below the dipstick. That's not going to be a small amount to be "off".
The hole with the plug directly above the oil filter on the TBI engine is for oil pressure, the one above and behind it can be used for clutch in some cars(just did one in a '79 Malibu 4 spd conversion)

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im gonna have to measure it once its in the truck. if it looks like it can be just alittle off then ill tap it on the boss right behind it. if not then ill run it in the back hole. unless somebody else had an idea.
btw cap fab thanks for the picture! that makes it alot easier for me

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You won't be able to use the rear location in a '63-'66 truck. What you might have to do is fabricate a bracket from the rear location, forward to the 1/4" bolt that holds that wire loom. Then drill a hole with a nut welded behind in the correct location below the dipstick tube. The other option would be to fit and weld a 1/2-13 coupling nut to the block using nickel rod

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i like the idea of the bracket. i gotta put the motor in the hole first to see what option will work the best. a bracket could work very well thou.

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hey if you haven't seen this yet here is the bracket you need http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=20492 http://sdparts.reachlocal.com/?scid=..._id=5873201138 you have to go to transmissions.. then clutch components.. then pivot ball bracket..if you need the front hole then its the one on the right side $60... if you need the rear hole it is on left of page $60 also

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Hey, "66r&w", Jegs sells these adapters too, in stainless, & including the ball stud for like $63.99--looks like a quality piece. It bolts to lower 2 bolts on d/s bell housing.>> http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...01026/10002/-1 << Having seen how simple it really is, I'd be awfully tempted to fab my own rather than wait on--or pay for--a 'store-bought':lol: one.
Sam

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That one in the link is the short style, which will not be the correct one for the '63-'72 trucks. What is needed is the long one for the forward location. That one happens to be on sale for $50.00

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=2157076

Unless a guy is bucks down, it's hard to beat that price with the time involved in fabbing one of these up.

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Unless a guy is bucks down, it's hard to beat that price with the time involved in fabbing one of these up.

X2 ! This looks like a good way to go-someone already did the engineering.

But I know guys who will spends days fabbing something, thinking they are "saving" a few bucks! LOL!

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i used that bracket and i have been driving the truck now for about 3 weeks
lovin the 305 and t5 combo. its pretty much perfect. as far as that braket goes.. i dont like it. i had to "modify" my bell houseing to make it work. it was a pita. now that bein said. it does work. so i AM happy about that. thanks for the help yall!

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I also have a 305 in my 62 but it has a 2 speed powerglide behind it. I have a S10 T-5 I was thinking of putting in. did the T-5 just bolt right up to the 305? How much work was it to install? Any pics of your 305/T-5 combo installed?
Thanks

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The S-10 T5 will go behind any SBC providing it's a pre `92 T5. The `92 up is WC but does not have the GM pattern at the bellhousing.
I have a T5 behind a `92 roller 305 but my truck orig had the iron, side mount bell so all it needed was a different clutch disc, shorten the driveshaft and a new hole in the trans hump. It hangs without a rear trans mount. A more modern MT bell requires a rear mount that complicates the park brake linkage.

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would like to see some pics of the trans installed if you could.

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ill be workin on gettin some pics up guys. im lovin this combo. the t5 went in with zero modification at all. i bought a spacer so i didnt have to shorten the input shaft at all. with a short shifter this thing is a blast to drive. i realized the other day that my corvette has rust on the brake rotors!!! lol

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Put a 454 in my 1965. Required some firewall modifications and Sanderson C6 headers with modified motor mounts but it is in