Zane's 71
 

In 1971 my maternal granddad purchased a 1971 Chevy Cheyenne in Amarillo, TX. Paid about $2700 for it brand new. In March of 1976, he sold it to my dad. In 1995, it was parked in Lubbock, TX. There was conversation about selling it and my 1972 as they had been sitting a LONG time. My then 14 year old son heard the conversation and immediately laid claim to my truck. After some discussion, my dad offered the 1971 as it is in much better shape.

This weekend, we picked it up. Finding 15" used tires on Memorial Day Saturday, proved to be beyond our time frame. So paid $20 to have the rotted rubber removed from the wheels and put it on the trailer.

Re: Zane's 71
 

Once it was on the trailer we proceeded to power wash 20 years of dirt from every surface we could reach. It is shocking the amount of dirt that was on the truck. The fender wells had over 1/4" thick over the entire surface. After a tank of gas through the pressure washer, we were done for the day.

Re: Zane's 71
 

Today, we parked it in the garage. Zane washed out the interior, removed the seat and carpet and vacuumed out the interior. Floor board has some rust in the foot well, but not bad by any means.

As we go through this project, I intend to keep this thread updated with our progress. I will be reaching out to the community for support and guidance. I have been a lurker for many years, but never had much to contribute. My son is super excited and very proud of his truck. I just might be a bit excited too.

Re: Zane's 71
 

Looks like its a very nice truck. Its so cool that it has always been in the same family. Its good to see another local to me forum member!:metal: Post as often as you can, I'd love to watch this one!:chevy:

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Here is the SPID for the truck.

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Hmmmm...
The glove box decal lists a 396 engine. I'm not even an expert, though that 70 and up big blocks were listed as "400" engines.

Anyone?

Is that a big block in it? More pictures please!!! :)

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VIN decodes to '71 from Flint. Late in production with a serial of 633780. Not sure about the 396 vs 400. I can vouch that the spid has never been changed, nor the glove box. The history of the truck is well known. Painted once after a hail storm in late 80's.

It is no longer a big block. Original engine died in the mid 80's. Dad replaced it with a 350. Some decisions are regretted. Big block was traded for some welding work. Rumor says it became a pump engine in a cotton field. No way to track it down.

More pictures will come this weekend. Plan is to change oil, replace carb with one in known condition, and start the engine. Then move to trans fluids, diff.

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Great truck to start with.

Good luck, Rg

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Thanks. We are fortunate to have a great starting point.

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Cleaning out an old vehicle can be an adventure in the things you find. Wonder how many remember these items. My son thought it cool. This one has "Be a Pepper" and a "R" on the bottom side. Probably one of the many promotions.

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Discovered the engine is frozen/seized. Pulled the plugs last night to fill cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil. Did not think #7 was coming out. Seriously expected the threads in the head to come out with it. It came out, threads look okay on plug and head. The plug had some dark green deposit on the ground strap. Piston is at the bottom of the stroke. Filled each cylinder and a bunch down the intake. Will let it sit over the weekend. If all goes well, it will come loose.

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So the engine will not move; going to pull it. Fortunately, we planned ahead for this one and have an L31 sitting on the engine stand. Needs heads, but sourced those today.
Sunday we worked on the rear axle. Drained the gear oil, replaced the axle seals, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, and new drums. Zane learned the inner workings of a 12 bolt and the complicated springs of drum brakes.

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Sorry, I do not know what a L31 engine is....

It's sooo nice to start with a 71 or 72, already having disc brakes...
You are working on the essentials of a vehicle first, glad to see that. Bearings and brakes are important, tires also, but since you essentially got NO tires with your pickup...LOL

How did the axles look? I've seldom tore down a classic Chevy pickup or car that had 2 good axles in it. If one only is bad, it's usually the RH rear...

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The L31 is the 2nd gen vortec engines. Iron heads used in pickups, vans etc. Same design as the camaro lt1.

Axles were good.

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LOL, THanks!!!

I don't even know what a 2nd gen Vortec engine is...my knowledge somewhat ends with the last carb'd engines in 1986. I DO know the throttle body stuff was from 87-95 and the Vortec from 96-99 (I think, in pickups at least, maybe some were in 2000 models) after that, it's LS mania!

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Sorry, 2nd gen SBC is the vortec engine. The vortec engine is the L31. The one used in trucks and stuff from 96-99 and vans and assorted other vehicles until 2002. There is no 2nd gen vortec. Don't know where that came from.

This weekend we finished the rear brakes and put the rear end back together. Had a problem with brake line not coming out of one wheel cylinder. Had to cut it and flare the old tube. Took three tries but I think it will work now. Order a rear brake hose, pinion seal, and pinion nut. Will do u-joint at same time.

Also found a new set of vortec 062 heads for half price...still in the box. Proceeded to machine the valve bosses to accept GM beehive blue springs. Should be able to go with .550 lift if ever wanted. Will go with basic stock cam until Zane learns to drive well.

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This weekend, I machined the valve bosses to accept better springs and give up to .550" of lift if needed down the road. Also drilled the push tube holes to accept 1.6 rockers if desired down the road. Put the stock cam back in, lifters, and bolted the heads on with a .015" head gasket and new bolts ($35 easy decision). Pistons have a shallow dish, so compression calculates to 9.48 to 1 with good quench. Easy 87 octane engine. This week will run through setting valves, finish bolting on remaining items. Debating about rebuilding transmission. For the price of a rebuild kit, kind of a no brainer. Just such a tedious task... seals, clutches, bushings, springs, fluid all over the place. Bah.

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We have pulled the engine and transmission. Transmission has been disassembled and rebuilt. Wiring harness may need to be replaced. Seeing some cracks and bare spots. Could fix, but for the price may just replace.

Next steps are clean up the frame and cross member. Address rot on driver side inner rocker panel. Stop some surface rust and put it all back together.

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Zane and I attacked the under carriage with a pressure washer. We hung some plastic down both sides to contain the spray. This worked very well to contain the spray and dirt.

Once it was all cleaned up, we put the engine and transmission back in place. Had to remove one stand to get the mount to line up with the hole. No big deal.

Once the engine was in place, we took the air box off the cab to check it's condition. Found a small nest and lots of dirt. More to come.

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Making good progress!

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Scope shift is a real problem. I have to remind myself this is a driver from a 16 year old. Every time I do something, I see something that could be done because this would be a great time to do it. If it is functional and works, we intend to leave it as is. If I don't stay focused, it will be full frame off restoration.

We are very close to putting the engine bay back together. This weekend I cut out and replaced the rust in the wheel wells. They are not perfect, but are functional and should never be seen once bolted on.

Sand blasting sucks! Picked up a small Harbor Freight unit for blasting the core support, battery tray, etc. Paid $25 for the 25lb HF media. Should have done my research. Tractor supply has 50lb bags for $8. Does not flow quite as good, but gets the job done. Items are blasted, primed, and painted chassis black.

Found the blower motor resistor was wasted. Plug was melted, resistor was falling apart. No local auto parts had it available or showed any parts to order. Found one vendor on line that claims to have it available. Also found a replacement plug. $30 later, both are on the way. Once I have those parts, we will start bolting the front back on. Painted the AC/Heater housing while it was out. Will put it back together once parts arrive with new seals. Had one rat nest and a ton of dirt. All cleaned up now.

I also cut the rust out of the drivers side floor board, inner rocker on passenger side. Discovered another rust spot on floor inside passenger side cab corner. The cab corner is fine, but there is a hold big enough to put my fingers through beside the floor brace. Not going to fix it. Don't think I can get at it without cutting a bunch of good metal out. Any water entering will drain back out immediately. One of those scope creep issues.

Lastly, stripped the cab floors to metal because there was lot of surface rust and some pitting. Treated the rust areas with rust converter, then sprayed the area with self etching primer. We are going to have to paint the inside of the cab. Was not planning it, but too many issues. Will do this ourselves when windows are out. A task for later.

Found Brothers had a ton of items I needed on sale. Order carpet, locks & ignition switch, and other items adding to about $725. Saved about $300.

Hoping to make some major progress in the next couple of weeks.

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Good to know. Thanks!:mm:

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Core support, accessories, wiring, power steering hoses, basically engine bay is done. Need fuel pump and wiring.

Couple new lower ball joints, reassembled suspension. New calipers, pads, rotors, bearings, seals, brake lines...oops they were too short. Still need to source them.

NAPA master cylinder is for manual brakes. Stumped parts guy, first for him on the proper one. Still need to order a new power brake booster.

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Zane purchased his wheels. He is very proud of them. I think he chose well.

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Disassembled the doors. Strap between inner and outer panels was cracked on both doors. Weld both up. Then started on the bottom side. Drivers door had rust on the bottom rear corner beneath seam sealer. Cleaned it all up and found the corner has been patched on the outer skin. Cut the inner skin off and welded in a new small patch. Took a wire brush to some surface rust and found a section about 1" x 5" needing fixed. Noticed the area along the bottom edge where the outer skin folds over the inner skin was "swelling." More exploration discovered the area under the fold was nearly gone. Cut the fold off, cut the rust out, replaced the rusted part, welded a "fold" back on. Door looks good. Pick below is it.

Passenger door had rust in the corner, but was easy to fix.

Waiting on seals from Brothers. On back order. Along with rear window seal and arm rest.

Next step is sanding, priming, and painting the inner door panel.

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Rebuild the vent windows. Not a tough project. Made much easier with all the threads showing how to do it. Used seals from Classic Parts. They fit like a dream. Setting the rivets is not hard as long as you get a good solid surface on the head of the rivet.

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Brakes, we have brakes. Purchased master cylinder and front hoses from Classic parts. They ship quick!

Bleeding went quick with a stop for homework.

Went through all the wiring under the dash. Lots of DIY tap into hot wire for power spots. Quick to fix. However, I did come across a plug with no home. Must be part of HVAC; one wire connects to the switch on the diverter box. Any idea to what this is supposed to connect?

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Really moving along nicely guys! I like Zanes wheel choice also. Kudos for such an in depth project/ mechanical education with the young man... He will never forget it.;)

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Truck is scheduled to go to paint on Jan 5. Painter is someone I have used before. He will have it back to me before end of January. He is going to paint inside and out of fenders, hood, cowel, cab interior, jams, and doors.

Truck now runs and moves on it's own. Had the distributor 180 out of time. Once I fixed that, it started right up. Had one rocker that needed adjustment. Still need to put a reservoir on for the power steering.

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For anyone wondering in the future, the plug is the anti-dieseling relay plug. No relay present in the truck at this time. Should I add it back or continue to run without.

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Truck went to painter on Saturday. Saturday afternoon, I purchased a vehicle for my older son. His current vehicle is a 2005 Mustang. Sunday, had the car detailed preparing to sale it. Oh, the clear coat is pealing off the car! Had it painted 18 months ago by the painter I dropped the truck off to Saturday. Went to see him today to discuss our future business relations...

On the way, I noticed the diff was making an awful noise. More repairs.

He saw the paint and said "I can respray it next week. I was using a brand of paint that has done that on a number of vehicles. I no longer use it and the truck will not have that issue." Perfect answer. In addition, he had the truck bed 3/4 of the way stripped.

With that said, I proposed a trade. He gets the car and gives me some cash. He jumped all over the deal. I was honest about the diff noise. In the end, I don't have to fix the diff or put any effort into selling the car and realized about what I thought I could sell it for prior to diff noise.

Now, just have to make sure the paint comes out as expected.

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Truck is back from paint. A few areas are going to need his attention, but he agreed before we settled. Pushed him to get it done quickly, if you can call 4 weeks quick. Zane is happy and that is what counts!

We started putting it back together Saturday and Sunday. About 11 hours of work between the two days.

Dash looks good. Doors are coming together. Should be done with the interior and deep into the exterior by end of this coming weekend.

He turns 16 on 3/5/19. Has to be done by then!

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Lot of progress this weekend. Big items were carpet, seat, back glass, windshield, speaker panels. Carpet was wriggled, but after one day was laying flatter. Already looking a lot better.

Back glass was easy. No issue getting trim in the gasket or installing the window. The trim for the front glass took a long minute to get into the gasket. Between Zane and I, the trim finally set into place. After reading every post, watching every YouTube video, and worrying about it, the front glass went in without any real issue. Lubrication, lot's of lubrication makes a difference. Making sure the outside lip is in the proper place and pushing the window down while working the inside lip helps too.

The speaker panels are poorly formed. Not a big issue, but you would think they would fit. Trimmed quite a bit of material off the back side. The panels came with screws, but used 3M 2-sided tape to install to avoid more holes. Had to move the hi/lo beam switch as it was under the speaker panel. Easy change, but not expected.

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Awesome read along. Great project and way to go Zane.

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nice truck, so cool that it was your dad's and now your son's!! great project for you and your son, I did builds with both my sons when they were teenagers and they still have their trucks today...

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Cool. He claims he will drive it forever. I hope not, cause I want it when he moves on...

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Busy weekend. Zane purchased a new grill surround with some money he had saved. Looks great, but quality is no where close to an original. Closer to aluminum foil than the factory material. Oh well, looks good.

Put some molding back on. Have three pieces still to polish and paint. One cab corner piece is crooked, not sure why.

Ground issue with the bed. No tail lights. Will run some grounds to bed, does not appear to be any connecting the bed to the frame.

Re: Zane's 71
 

Door seals suck! Glued in a new set, doors were no where close to closing. After numerous adjustments, doors were so far out of alignment that we took the seals back out. Not sure what to do next. May try the Honda Civic ones.

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GMC Pauls, they have press on door rubbers,easy to put on and no messy glue, nicer to work with if you have to take them off to make door adjustments.

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I went to the local pick and pull, got door seals from 91-99 dodge Dakota, press on and only about 3" longer than the 67-72 door opening, already pre shrunk from the dodge, cost me $18 for two sets, got second set just in case they were not long enough, wound up having a set for my other truck, so bonus