Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Inspect Low/Reverse clutch "Steels" for bluing "hot spots", Replace if necessary.

Inspect Reaction Sun Gear for damage, If the planet had damage...The Sun Gear most likely got damaged as well. Replace Bushing 100%, High wear area. Wide Sonnax Bushing is preferred.

Remove Inner Race from Center support, Inspect the Low/Reverse Sprag inner race for damage, Replace the Low/Reverse Sprag 100%....Borg Warner Only! This Sprag is technically a Roller Clutch.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Next up is the most Infamous part in a 700R4, The Reaction Sun Shell.

AC Delco sunshell (update) kit is the way to go for Stock to Mild builds up to 350 ft.lbs
Amazon.com: ACDelco 24243878 Reaction Sun Gear... Everything to "Rollerize" the Input planet Carrier.

Sonnax Smart-Shell is the next step-up in torque handling, As strong as any "High Risk" component in this unit. Making over 450 ft.lbs.? Rethink using a 700R4/4L60. Info http://www.sonnax.com/landing_pages/smartshell Product http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2454.

The Beast, Monsters, Lions, & Tigers are a waste....

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Input Planetary inspection.

Inspect the input planet captive thrust bearing assembly. To check the captive thrust bearing in the planet carrier (662) for wear, place a bushing or an output shaft sleeve (690) onto the bearing race and turn it with the palm of your hand. Do not touch the pinion gears. Any imperfections will be felt through the bushing.

Check the input planet pinion end play. The end play must not exceed 0.61 mm (0.024 inch).
Inspect the input carrier for pinion gear damage, proper pin stake and keystoned pinion gears. Pinions must rotate freely.

Check Input planet annulus gear/internal gear for damage (arrow).

The Reaction shaft is snap ringed into the Annulus gear, If you buy the AC Delco update kit....No need to inspect this part (The kit come with a new one), If you are going to reuse this part...Check for wear on the shaft from the Reaction sun gear bushing & for spline wear form the annulus gear.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

When you are done with this thread I will make it a permanent sticky so its easily found. Your doing a great job explaining everything. Thank you for sharing with everyone.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Thanks man!



On to the Input Drum, I didn't instruct to disassemble this drum for a reason. We need to leak test it first.

Take the SunShell that your going to replace & cut the splines off flush with the Shell, This will be your Test stand & Pump stand.

Lubricate the 2 sealing rings on the back of the pump with TransGel or Vasoline.
Do the same with the 4 on the Input shaft, Slide the pump onto the Reverse Input drum/Input Drum assembly (with the plastic thrust washer), Grab the whole assembly with one hand on the pump cover & the other on the end of the Input drum, Flip it upside down onto the test stand.

Reverse Input/Input Drum.
Assembly stacked upside down.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

This thread is sick... Thanks for everything you contribute cline my friend!

Hope the OP gets the working on his rig problem worked out soon. :)

Gary

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

You will need a good air blower with a good rubber tip. Air pressure 40 to 60 psi.

Pressurize the Forward Clutch Feed. The Forwards will apply. The 3-4 Clutches SHOULD NOT move, Observe the Apply Cage & 3-4 pressure plate for movement though the holes in the Input Drum.
***'87-'93 4L60 Builders, Hold your finger over the hole directly under the Forward feed hole in the pic, On the side of the pump, This is the Forward Accumulator Feed***

Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch Feed, 3-4 Clutches will apply, The Overrun Clutches SHOULD NOT apply, Confirm this by Overrunning the Input Sun Gear counter clockwise by hand, Have another hold the drum stationary if needed.
(The Input Sun Gear is the gear in the middle of the Input drum in the previous pic)

Pressure the Reverse Feed, Listen for gross leakage.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

If any of the above air test fail, Let me know & I will help, Explaining all that would take pages.

Remove the Input Drum from the Reverse Input Drum/Front pump by pulling straight up with the Assembly is still upside down.

Place the Input Drum in a parts washer or Drain pan with the Input shaft pointing up, Fill the top cavity with Solvent, Plug the Bleed Orifice with your finger.
Pressurize the 3-4 Clutch feed hole between the 2 bottom sealing rings.

If there is a leak between the Input shaft & Input Drum.....Stop, You need a new Input Drum!!!

Check for 3-4 Check ball Capsule for leakage, Replace this Capsule 100%!!!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Continued.. You can't see the Bleed Orifice through the solvent.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Finally time to disassemble the Input Drum.

Hole saw a hole in your work bench to stick the Input shaft through so you can work on the drum.

Start with removing the 3-4 snap ring from the Drum, Grab the Apply plate at the bottom of the 3-4 stack, Stack upside down out of the way with the 5 Release springs that fall out of the drum & Snap ring.

Remove the Forward Clutch Snap ring (This snap ring is Stout).
Turn the drum over & The Forward Clutch stack, Forward Sprag Assembly, Overrun Clutches, & Sprag Torrington bearing will fall out of the drum.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Forward Clutch detail.

Forward Apply plate (646).
Forward clutch waved plate (648).
Steel plates (649A)
Backing plate (650)
Forward Clutches (649B)

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Overrun clutch detail, Not much to it.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Now you will be looking at the Overrun/Forward piston Return spring assembly.
Compress spring cage, Remove snap ring.
Turn Drum over, Apply air to the 3-4 clutch feed (shown in earlier post).
This will blow the pistons out. Some builders smack the drum against the work bench to remove pistons, Good way to crack this delicate drum.

Remove the inner O-ring from the Input Drum (pic), DO NOT forget to reinstall this O-ring!!! Upon assembly. Thin Green O-ring in the seal kit.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

On to the Reverse Input Drum.

**NOTE** 82-86 used a different drum than 87-93, They DO NOT interchange!
The early one has a Steel piston The late drum has a Aluminum piston.

Remove snap ring, An Awl works best. Lift the clutches & steels out. Compress the return spring cage, Remove snap ring, Remove Piston.

I recommend replacing this drum, The 2-4 band rides here. If you want to reuse it Check it with a Straight Edge for flatness, If flat, Do a light cross hatch with emery cloth to knock the glaze off. Then Replace BOTH bushings!!

New drum for $62.11, Amazon.com: 700 4L60E New Reverse Input Drum:... Worth it if you ruin a few bushings getting your technique down.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Front pump, Using the stand you made earlier out of the sunshell, Place the pump Seal down on the stand.
Remove the 5 13mm headed bolts that hold the pump halves together. Pull up on the top pump half exposing the Pump rotor, Vanes, Slide, Ring.

Remove the top Pump Ring, Lift the Pump rotor up by the torque converter lugs. Vanes will fall everywhere, Gather those up, Remove lower Pump Ring, If the plastic Rotor Pilot was left behind Remove it.
Fun Fact...The Rotor pilot's only purpose is to keep the Pump rotor centered for Torque Converter install.

Using a screwdriver or awl. Get under the primer spring & remove it.
**NOTE**Always use you hand to block springs from launching into orbit;)

Remove Pump Slider, Wiper seals, Slider pin & spring.

Inspect both pump halves for damage, Inspect for Pump Bushing walk.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Continued,

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Parts ordering.

I highly recommend using 4L60E frictions in ALL '87-'93 700R4's, Along with late "E" molded pistons in the Input Drum.
This is an "E" kit with Borg Warner frictions (Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches & 2/4 Band), Raybestos steels, Teflon pump bushing, Case bushing & molded pistons Amazon.com: 4L60E 4L65E 4L60-E Master Overhaul...The Filter & Valve body gaskets WILL NOT work on 700R4's, But at $172 the filter & seal kit are free. And its good for a first timer to have extra seals

700R4 seal kit, TransTec has the Lip Wizard Lip seal tool included.
700R4 Filter, SPX-Filtran
4L60E Overrun return spring assembly, GM part# 4206085, Needed for molded pistons.
Borg Warner 29 element Forward Sprag
Borg Warner Low/Reverse Sprag
Sonnax pinless accumulator pistons (2) http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2520
Sonnax purple accumulator springs (2) http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1660
TransGo SK 700-JR, Their TV kit is top notch. Good accumulator bushing spring selection as well. The rest of the kit does not work well in all transmissions!
TransGo Pump Rings
New pump Vanes
TransGo 700-p separator plate
Sonnax wide sun gear bushing
Sonnax wide Stator bushings
GM 3-4 apply plate, Part# given earlier
Torrington/Koyo bearing kit

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

ASSEMBLY.

If you did not install Case Bushing already, Do it now.

Install the transmission (low and reverse clutch outer, center, inner) seals (696) on the low and reverse clutch piston (695).
Lubricate the seals with Transjel or an equivalent.
Install the low and reverse clutch piston (695) into the case. The notch in the piston must be aligned with the parking brake pawl window, in the case.
Install the low and reverse clutch spring assembly (694).
Using the J23327-1 or similar tool, compress the low and reverse clutch spring assembly (694).
Install the low and reverse clutch retainer ring (693).

I don't use snap ring pliers on this snap ring, Using 2 long flat screwdrivers. Start one end of the snap ring in the groove using 1 of the screwdrivers, hold it in the groove, Use the other screwdriver to roll the rest of the snap ring in.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Reaction carrier is next, Soak the Reaction to Case Torrington Bearing it ATF for a few seconds, Put 2 small dabs of transgel where the Torrington sits on the Carrier, This will hold the bearing in place. Lube the case bushing will a light coat of Transjel.
Install the Carrier in the Case, Give it a good whirl, It should spin very freely in the case.

If the carrier is hard to turn, Take a Hammer, Grab it by the Head, Lightly hit the carrier with the Handle on the red circles in an alternating pattern, This will seat the Case Bushing.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Pictures...

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Time for the Reaction Planet, Soak The Torrington bearing in ATF, 2 dabs of transjel to hold the bearing, Roll the Planet through the ATF lubing the Pinions & internal bearing.
Install Planet into Carrier, Insert your Index & Middle finger through the center of the Planet while installing.

Put a dab of Tranjel on the Case where the Anti Clunk spring goes, Install spring as shown in the pic.

***************************************************************
**NOTE** Soak all Frictions for at least 30 min. before installing!
Lightly sand all steels plates where they meet a Friction, Don't go crazy, This is just a surface prep. Wash steels afterward!
***************************************************************

Install the Low/Reverse Wave Plate with the Notched tab at the 6 0'clock position.
Steel plate next.
Then a Friction.
Keep alternating Steel-Friction 'till you run out, 5 Frictions in the Low/Reverse clutch, When done you should be staring at a Friction NOT a Steel!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Up next is the Center Support.
Install New Low/Reverse Sprag, Install Inner Race.

Look at Center Support, There is a notch that's wider than the rest, Match it to the wide Lug in the Case.
Sit the Center Support down in the Case, Rotate the Low/Reverse sprag race 'till lined up.
Use a Hammer Handle to seat the Support to the Case.
Inspect the Anti Clunk spring (see pic)
Install Snap Ring, The White marks are where the ends need to be.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Reaction Sun Gear Mods.

Grind 4 small notches in the Face of the Sun Gear that rides on the Reaction Planet internal bearing.

This improves oiling to the bearing & Planet.

Replace the Bushing with a Wide Sonnax bushing, In the old day's we doubled the stock bushing.

This adds stability to the Input Planet, Reaction Tube & Sunshell.

Install Sun Gear into the Planet.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

**If using a stock Sunshell, Place the 4 Tanged plastic Thrust Washer on the Low/Reverse Sprag Race. Insert sunshell into the Reaction Sun Gear splines.

**If using a Beast Sunshell, Leave this Thrust Washer out, Use the Plastic Thrust washer supplied with the sunshell, Use 2 dads of transjel to stick it to the bottom of the shell. Insert sunshell into the Reaction Sun Gear splines. This Sunshell is VERY popular, I decided to include it.

**If Using a Sonnax Smart-Shell, Leave the stock thrust washer out, Soak the Torrington bearing that comes with the Shell in ATF, 2 dabs of Transjel to stick it to the bottom of the shell, Insert sunshell into the Reaction Sun Gear splines.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Of the three, which Sunshell would you recommend?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Sonnax Smart-Shell ive read the beast sun shells sometimes have problems

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

As David said, The Beast have certain issues, Not being balanced being the biggest issue, The heavy weight amplifies it, I have also seen some that are not True. Many Builder swear by them because they don't break.....But what's the point if it's going to beat the Bushings out.

The Stock Delco Sunshell is Fine for under 350 ft/lbs, It was updated a few times & alot better than they used to be (Softer material to prevent breakage), The stuff you read on the internet is from problems 20 years ago.

The Delco shell has 1 Achilles Heel, The Splines can Strip if to much torque is applied. Or towing heavy through hilly terrain....Constant 2-3, 3-2, 2-3, 3-2 can wear the splines, But other things wear as well under these conditions, The pic is a 3-4 clutch plate from a 4.8L/4L60E truck that tows through Colorado a lot, I rebuilt it about 60,000 miles ago, The Sunshell stripped, But look at the internal tangs on the Clutch plate....Almost worn off!!
Point is the Stock shell will last as long as the rest of the Trans IF not over torqued.

The Sonnax Sunshell is actually a reinforced stock shell, A plate is welded around the splined to stop deformation, The reverse input drive lugs are heat treated. A Torrington bearing is added to keep thrust load off the Reaction Planet Torrington. This is a very nice piece, & if funds allow....Highly recommended.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

OK, Your trans should look like this, Ready for the Reaction Tube/Shaft, & 3-4 Clutch Hub/Input Planet Annulus gear.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

**If your reusing the Reaction shaft (with a Flat bottom), Place the Brass 4 tang thrust washer on the SunShell, Use TransJel to stick it to the Shell.

**If using an Updated 4L60E Reaction Shaft, Soak the Torrington in ATF, Stick the bearing to the Reaction Shaft......The Delco Shell kit comes with a Shell, Shell to reaction shaft Torrington bearing, Reaction Shaft, & Input planet to reaction shaft Torrington bearing.

**If you are using a Beast or Sonnax Shell, You can still "rollerize" the Reaction Shaft, You need a Reaction Shaft & BOTH Torrington bearings from GM.
**NOTE** DO NOT use the Input Planet to Reaction Shaft Torrington from the bearing kit if you get a Reaction Shaft from GM, It was revised in '07/'08.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Install Reaction Shaft/3-4 hub assembly.

Soak Input Planet in ATF, Soak input planet to reaction shaft Torrington bearing in ATF,
Stick the bearing to the bottom of the planet with TransJel.
Install Input Planet into 3-4 Clutch Hub.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Using an air blower, Check all Lube holes in the Output shaft for blockage.

Insert Output shaft from the bottom of the unit, Turn it to engage everything, Use a Bungee cord to hold the shaft in place while installing the snap ring. Use the New snap ring included in the rebuild kit!

The Gear train is now done.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

If your Input Sun Gear is separate from the forward sprag. Place it in the Input planetary.

700R4's had separate Sun Gears from the factory, Just being thorough, Ive opened quite a few that had 4L60E forward sprags.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Cover the Case/Geartrain with something lint free, Like a old bed sheet.
Time to build Drums....

Lets start with the Forward Sprag assembly, DO NOT use '82-'86 Forward Sprag assemblies!!

ID info....The early sprag assembly. Has no thrust plate & requires a plastic thrust washer on top of the Input Planet, The Late Sprag has a Thust Washer.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Place Sprag assembly on the work bench with the Overrun hub facing up, Remove snap ring, Remove Overrun hub.
Separate the Forward clutch hub from the Sprag, Remove Sprag & both Sprag retainer rings & Discard.

**NOTE, Use Borg Warner Sprags, If it does not say Borg Warner on the Package...It's a Knock off...DO NOT use. If a genuine BW cannot be found, Go to the Dealer & buy a SKF Sprag, In fact a SKF is fine behind a stock engine.**

Note the position of the "Dogs" in the pic for reassembly.
Install 1 of the Sprag retainer rings on the Inner Sprag Race.
Install the Sprag Element in the Forward Clutch Hub (outer race).
Roll the Inner Sprag race into the Sprag element.
Temporarily place Overrun hub on Inner Race, Hold Forward Clutch Hub still, Overrun Hub should turn Clockwise, But not Counterclockwise. If the Overrun hub turns Counterclockwise....The Sprag is installed backwards, Correct before proceeding!!!

Remove Overrun Clutch Hub, While holding the assembly together, Dip it in ATF.
Install the 2nd Retainer Ring, Install Overrun Clutch Hub, Install snap ring.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Time to build the Input Drum.

Install the Inner "Green" O-ring in the Drum, Refer to post #53. Lube O-ring with TransJel,

Install 3-4 Piston, Lube both Lip seals with TransJel, Start the piston lip seal at an angle in the Drum & Rock the Piston into the Drum, No Lip Seal tools required for this piston.

USE ONLY 4L60E Molded steel 3-4 Piston!! The Stock aluminum piston is known for porosity problems & cracking.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Install the forward clutch piston (630) into the forward clutch housing (628). If reusing the Aluminum Forward Piston, Install Lip seals first. I do not use TransJel on the outer piston seal, Use ATF, Fit the Forward Piston into the Clutch Housing using you finger nail, Lube the Inner seal with Transjel.

**Note, Only use a 3-4 Apply Ring that has a 7 stamped on it, This is the shortest apply ring allowing the most room for 3-4 clutch stack-up**

Place the 3-4 Apply ring on the bench with "Fingers" up, Place the 3-4 clutch return spring assembly in the middle of the apply ring.

Place the Forward Piston & Housing on top of the return spring, Align the 5 tabs on the Forward piston with the Fingers on the apply ring.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Continued....

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Grab the 3-4 Apply Ring by the Fingers, Lower the Assembly down into the Input Drum, The Forward Piston will stop short, The Apply Ring & Return spring will fall to bottom.

Use a Lip Wizard or other Lip Seal tool to fit the Inner Forward Piston Lip Seal onto the Input Drum, The Piston & Housing will drop onto the return spring.

Install Overrun Piston next, If reusing Aluminum piston, Install both Lip Seals.
Lube Inner & Outer Lip Seal with TransJel, Using a Lip seal tool, Fit the Inner seal FIRST!, When the Piston will no longer "Rock" side to side....Fit the Outer Overrun Piston Seal to the Forward Clutch Piston.

Install Overrun Piston Return Spring Assembly on top of Overrun Piston, Compress spring & Install Snap Ring.

A beginner may want to practice a little with the old lip seals/pistons.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Overrun Clutch Stack-Up.
Overrun Steel...On top of piston, Align Deep Notches with Forward Piston Tabs.
Overrun Friction
Overrun Steel
Overrun Friction

Post #52 for detail
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Locate Forward Apply Plate, Looks like a Forward Steel but Thicker.
Drop the Apply plate down in the Drum from about 3 inches up.....
You SHOULD hear Metal to Metal contact between the Apply Plate & Forward Piston Tabs, If there is a soft thud, The Overrun clutches are too high...From a piston not seated, Foreign object, ETC.......Fix Now!!
646 in Post #51.

Next is the Forward Clutch Wave Plate, It has a Notch on 1 of tabs for I.D. purposes, I have seen this Plate end up in the Steel/Friction stack a number of times, Install on Apply Plate ONLY.
648 in Post #51.

Install 1 Forward Steel on top of Wave Plate, Do Not go any further at this time!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Install Lube Circuit Seal. Soak the Input Sun Gear Torrington Bearing in ATF, Place in Input Drum "Tangs Down".

Install Forward Sprag Assembly by working the Overrun Clutch Hub into the Overrun Clutches, The Sprag Assembly will bottom out on the Torrington Bearing.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Forward Clutch Apply Plate, Wave Plate & 1st Steel Plate installed in Step above.

Forward Friction, Fit to Forward Clutch Hub splines
Forward Steel
Forward Friction
Forward Steel
Forward Friction
Forward Steel
Forward friction
Forward Steel
Forward Friction
Forward Backing Plate

Install Heavy Forward Clutch snap ring. Use a 90 degree Awl & pull up on the snap ring after install to seat the snap ring OR Apply air to the hole between the 2nd & 3rd Sealing Ring on the Input Shaft, This will seat the Forward Clutch.

Check Forward Clutch Clearance, This is a "fairly" forgiving Clutch Pack. Shoot for .050 to .080, Up to .100" is acceptable.

Hold Forward Sprag down with 1 hand, Using a Flat Blade screwdriver or a Modified Trim tool mentioned earlier, Lift-Up then let Down the Forward Backing plate to visually check clearance.