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-   -   Wiring Power Mirrors (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=757075)

Super_Dave 02-14-2018 03:19 AM

Wiring Power Mirrors
 
5 Attachment(s)
First off. . . I am an IDIOT when it comes to wiring/electrical. I can follow decent instructions but cannot read a wiring diagram to save my ass. Pictures are GREAT and videos even better!

So. . . be nice. . . you may need my help someday ;)

I got some factory power mirrors from a dismantler in New Mexico, off a 1990 Blazer. I got both mirrors with pigtails and the joy stick controller with pigtail.

However, after asking that he send "EVERYTHING" I need to install them in a truck that didn't come with them from the factory, (with the exception of the main wiring harness, which is newly installed in my '74 C20 build). . . I have come to realize that I am missing a number of important parts needed to do the install.

Apparently, there are internal mounting plates/brackets to stiffen the door when the bolts are installed.There has to be some additional wiring/plugs/connectors, as well.

We (my neighbor and I) hooked up a 12V Power Supply to test the joy stick controller and the mirror motors. We get movement from both mirrors and the joy stick does control "some" movements.

Having said that, there is no real way to connect power to the mirrors, as all we have are the four wires that go to each mirror and no discernible way to connect power or deal with polarity changes. . .

I mated the various "same wires" from each mirror (yellow/black, white/black, etc) with the matching wires from the controller. We ran a lead from the PS to individual wire sets and the mirrors would move in a single direction. . . and the controller had no impact, as we had bypassed it with power directly to the mirrors.

Sometimes, one of the test wire sets would move BOTH mirrors simultaneously and other times, only the controller would move the mirrors but not the mirror the controller was pointing at. . . and the movement with the controller was in one direction only. . . no return movement.

So, to put it bluntly, we don't know what the hell we are doing!

BUT! we do know that the controller functions and both mirrors have good motors, so it's not a total loss.

I downloaded a schematic, which I clearly do not know how to use to identify what else I need and what to do if and when I get all the additional parts.

I do not have the discretionary funds to pay someone, as I am really stretching my resources on the build at the moment. Had I gotten 100% of what I needed and asked for, perhaps I might have a fighting chance.

That's water under the bridge. What I need is some clear, concise, simple information on what else I need to get, and what the hell to do with it when I get it! If you have a 1st grade son or daughter who can draw me some pictures, that would be a Yuge Bonus!

So, here is what I have to date:
Attachment 1752396Attachment 1752397


Here is what another member was selling in 2011:
(Clearly I need a lot more... like a complete electric mirror harness.)

Attachment 1752398 Attachment 1752399 Attachment 1752400

Super_Dave 02-15-2018 06:06 PM

Re: Wiring Power Mirrors
 
So. . . in hopes of getting some response, I have another question.

Giving my apparent missing parts issue in the above post/images, what would stop me from pulling the wiring guts off a 1994-2000 Blazer/Suburban and splice it onto what I have for the 1990?

Is it safe to assume that marrying up the existing (but limited) wires from the mirrors and controller, to the mirror harness from a newer Chevy would work?

Is there something special about the newer harness that would eliminate it from being able to work with the older power mirrors? The wires would eventually terminate at the existing fuse panel on the new full harness we installed. . .

Anyone?

BLE 'BURBAN 02-17-2018 05:21 PM

Re: Wiring Power Mirrors
 
Jabin Wood can set you up with the under dash harness for the mirrors alone. The factory harness is all wrapped in with the power window-door lock harness.

As for the inner factory brackets, they have long since been did continued by GM. And they are glued in place inside the outer skin and are a real ***** to get off. Also, the bottom mounting bolt is a part of a structural support bar that curves around the front window channel and is bolted to the inner door shell.
If you cant locate these pieces in a yard, you can get some 3/16" thick by 4-6" wide flat stock from Lowe's or Home Depot or a local steel supply company cut 2 pieces to about 8" in length each.
line the front edge of the mirror up with the front edge of the wing window frame making sure it won't interfere with the vent window when opening it.
Mark your mounting mounting holes as well as the hole for the wiring and drill them out with a 3/8" bit. Use a 1" hole saw for the wiring harness hole.

Now take your flat stock and position it inside the shell tucking it as far up as you can.
You can use a piece of duct tape to hold it there temporally.
With a black sharpie color in the mounting hole positions as well as the hole for the harness on the flat stock from the outside of the door.
Remove flat stock, Center punch all holes.
Now there's two(2) ways you can do this next part....
1. Drill the mounting holes to 5/16" for the mounting bolts to pass thru and secure with nuts.
OR
2. DRILL AND TAP the mounting holes for 5/16" NFT bolts 1" long with a bit of locktite as I did.
I applied some JBWELD to the contact side of the flat stock before I reinstalled it in the door and bolted into place long enough for it to set up. while I worked on the other door.
46 minutes later, I went back routed the harness thru, removed the bolts and mounted the mirror.
Then I went back to the other side and finished it as well.

BLE 'BURBAN 02-17-2018 05:27 PM

Re: Wiring Power Mirrors
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Super_Dave (Post 8188927)
So. . . in hopes of getting some response, I have another question.

Giving my apparent missing parts issue in the above post/images, what would stop me from pulling the wiring guts off a 1994-2000 Blazer/Suburban and splice it onto what I have for the 1990?

Is it safe to assume that marrying up the existing (but limited) wires from the mirrors and controller, to the mirror harness from a newer Chevy would work?

Anyone?

92-95 MAY work but you will have to look at the plugs to make sure they are compatible with yours. at sometime GM swapped the plugs on the mirrors from male to female. I had to make a jumper for mine.

Super_Dave 02-17-2018 08:22 PM

Re: Wiring Power Mirrors
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BLE 'BURBAN (Post 8190602)
Jabin Wood can set you up with the under dash harness for the mirrors alone. The factory harness is all wrapped in with the power window-door lock harness.

As for the inner factory brackets, they have long since been did continued by GM. And they are glued in place inside the outer skin and are a real ***** to get off. Also, the bottom mounting bolt is a part of a structural support bar that curves around the front window channel and is bolted to the inner door shell.
If you cant locate these pieces in a yard, you can get some 3/16" thick by 4-6" wide flat stock from Lowe's or Home Depot or a local steel supply company cut 2 pieces to about 8" in length each.
line the front edge of the mirror up with the front edge of the wing window frame making sure it won't interfere with the vent window when opening it.
Mark your mounting mounting holes as well as the hole for the wiring and drill them out with a 3/8" bit. Use a 1" hole saw for the wiring harness hole.

Now take your flat stock and position it inside the shell tucking it as far up as you can.
You can use a piece of duct tape to hold it there temporally.
With a black sharpie color in the mounting hole positions as well as the hole for the harness on the flat stock from the outside of the door.
Remove flat stock, Center punch all holes.
Now there's two(2) ways you can do this next part....
1. Drill the mounting holes to 5/16" for the mounting bolts to pass thru and secure with nuts.
OR
2. DRILL AND TAP the mounting holes for 5/16" NFT bolts 1" long with a bit of locktite as I did.
I applied some JBWELD to the contact side of the flat stock before I reinstalled it in the door and bolted into place long enough for it to set up. while I worked on the other door.
46 minutes later, I went back routed the harness thru, removed the bolts and mounted the mirror.
Then I went back to the other side and finished it as well.

Thanks for the input!

I spent the last two days pouring over a schematic and tracing wires and identifying what I still need.

Essentially, everything from both Mirror pigtails to the controller (joy stick connectors) is missing, as is the 3 AMP in-line fuse and fuse panel connection. The diagram shows a BUS BAR GROUND and I do not have that on my '74 as far as I have been able to determine.

I need to splice the two additional connectors to their respective mirrors and the joy stick controller. I know what connectors I need and am looking for them now, however, I do not know what terminals to use.

After locating the necessary male/female connectors and additional colored wiring, and identifying the proper terminals, I hope to get it mocked up and bench tested before committing to drilling holes in my freshly redone doors.

I reached out to gmachinz about a splice harness. Curious to see what he says.

Thanks again for the input; especially on the mirror bracing and install!

Dave

gmachinz 02-18-2018 12:30 PM

Re: Wiring Power Mirrors
 
3 Attachment(s)
I just sent out a power mirror kit for a member and here are some pics of my power mirror harnesses. Dave, imo it would be much easier to simply go with a new dash harness and both mirror sections and from the mirror switch.

gmachinz 02-18-2018 12:33 PM

Re: Wiring Power Mirrors
 
Nobody builds all the specialty and option harnesses for these trucks which is why I began offeringnthem along with a variety of conversion harnesses. I’ve built pretty much every kind of optioned-out variety square so I’ve got all the parts as well as my own schematics I’ve designed for just such upgrades while keeping it as a factory style install.


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