Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Well Merry Christmas to Skymangs, it sounds like Santa may be good to him this year.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Indeed he may, Just need all the pieces to fall in place!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I pray for you pretty often, I have learned a ton!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Always thinking about you Chris, best to you now and in the upcoming year...Jim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks Jim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

And thanks Joedoe

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here's a twist that I decided would provide a lot of bang for the buck: C4 Vette rearend. S10 owners do this but have to do a lot of narrowing. But the S10 frame really works good with all the mounting points. And the width is great for the AD truck. I did this first attempt by myself in about 14 hours including boxing of the frame rails. It looks like if you mount the batwing up snug against the bottom of the frame rail, it should sit about 3" lower than the stock S10 once the truck is assembled.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm new to the forum and have just begun reclaiming a well used 49 short bed and have poured over this thread as well as Hussey's "Albert" thread.

1st off, I simply love the details you both have given.

2nd, on the cab mount designs you both have created, I see a slight difference in front to rear mount heights and was curious. Skymangs your rear mounts are 3/4" taller above the frame than the front mounts, but Hussey's plans only show 1/2" difference. Is there some reason for this? Appears to me they both yield great stances. Skymangs seem like they would raise the rear bumper substantially over Hussey's

Again, thanks for the great details.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Nope, that’s just the way I build em', not defending whether it’s right or wrong; just different.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks Skymangs.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm slowly plugging away on my 52 on an S10 frame. I am plumbing my transmission and decided to pick up an 8 x 14 cooler for it. It looks like it would fit nicely below the rad on the risers for the rad. I did the cross-member under the frame and sloped risers for the rad. Not knowing what the finished clearance would be but I am wondering if there will be enough air flow with the cooler in that location. From the pictures, the lower baffle below the rad to the grill looks like it might be at the half way point on the risers. My baffle is snowed into my shed and the way our weather is going, I may not be getting at it until August. I was thinking to keep the cooler below the rad to let the rad work better for the engine coolant without the extra hot air through it. Any information or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

just cut some slots in your apron (baffle) and push it down, then with some triangles of steel make it funnel the air right through the cooler.

you need airflow over a cooler to work efficiently, I have seen otehr guys put them under the cab but that doesnt get enough airflow in my opinion. so getting it right in the air stream is going to work.

by the way, the air coming out of the trans cooler will usually be cooler than the air passing over the rad, unless you are really towing. I have a second trans cooler added to the rad cooler on my 2500HD and the trans temp is always under the coolant temp, unless I am towing or hauling, then they are the same temp (because of the cooler in the rad)

air to trans fluid coolers arent as efficient as water (coolant) to trans fluid, but if your rad doesnt have a cooler in it then you dont have a lot of choice. remember to get a plate style cooler, not a fin style, for max cooling, and also remember that good ones will have a waxstat to limit flow through the cooler till it warms up a bit, because you can have your trans fluid TOO cold.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Some great points brought up. I think a transmission temperature gage has just been added to my instrumentation list.

Thank you.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I am ordering some wheels 18 x 8 for the front of my 50 Chevy, s10 frame truck and wonder what back space you recommend.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I used 20x8 with 4" backspace and they looked perfect in the wheelwells and turned lock to lock without rubbing, even though it tucked most of the tire.

remember that backspace is different depending on wheel width, 4" of backspace is 5" of front space on an 8 inch wide wheel. (yes 4+5 is 9 inches wide, there are two 1/2 inch lips on each side of an 8" wide wheel) but 4 inches of backspace on a 7" wide wheel is what they call 0 offset (7+1, /2= 4) and is actually a positive offset on a 6 inch wide wheel (6+1, /2= 3.5 center so 12mm positive offset).

my point isnt to confuse you, just to say that 4" backspace on 8" wide is a mutually exclusive answer, dont buy a 9.5" wide wheel just because it has 4" backspace.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Very well explained joedoe. Couldn’t have put it better myself.

Lower grill support?
 

First of all great thread. Thanks for taking the time .

I read through all of the post and I didn't see anyone talk about the lower grill support. I think that is what it is called. It is a piece of sheet metal that mounts to the bottom of the grill and to the inner fenders. Are you guys just leaving it off? It appears to me that when I mount my inner fenders this pan will not mount because of the end of the S-10 front frame rails. Yes, I did cut my frame rails just in front of the steering box but there is not enough room for the pan.

If you did install it, pictures would be great.

Thanks
Rick

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I never install them. If using s10 you have to trim to fit. Guy named hussey on here built a truck named albert. he has a pictures of it done.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

its the splash pan/air diverter for the radiator, if you live in a hot climate your truck will run a lot cooler with it installed.

here is what I did, in this picture you can see the pan trimmed for the frame horns

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...psp1atfjnb.jpg

I cut a piece of thin abs (its actually kydex) using the UPPER grille closeout (with the latch) as the rough pattern then trimmed it to fit and screwed it down with some sheelmetal screws

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps3fcfdig2.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...psuxfktefn.jpg

thats a chevrolet, gmc is a little different, but the same plan, trim to fit then plastic.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1542676740
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1542676740


the rad sits so high in the swap that you want to force air to go through the core. if there is any room to get around (or below) the rad, it will.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

just got my s10 frame 53 on the road after following this forum since last fall...im enjoying old crusty and it rides and drives way better than my 55 with the camaro clip....the s10 frame swap was a blast....i may have to do another one !!!

here is old crusty

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Nice. What did you put under the hood?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Very nicely done!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks fellas,... crusty has a mild 350, with a 700r4, sitting on a 94 s10 chassis with drop spindles and a flip kit in the rear... had to do the typical custom floor to clear the trans and cut out some rust, and threw in a set of power, heated, leather seats out of a Chrysler 300 and found some 100 year old wood planks to put in the bed...

Re: Lower grill support?
 

I thought I had pictures also, but yes...trim to fit as closely as possible. I think I took maybe 6" off the air dam and then had to cut a couple slots for the frame rails.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Very cool. The best thing about an old beat up truck is you don't have to worry about the paint, or door dings, or kids wanting to do what kids do when they see old cool things. Love to see some pics of under the hood.