1950 1/2 ton vs 3/4 Rear Bumper Brackets (non Drop)
I have been looking at the back of my 50 truck and the bumper with new stock brackets hangs way too low, specially since I lowered the truck.
I have been looking at the 3/4 ton rear bumper brackets and they look to come out straight. Now here is the question, is the rear of the chassis the same dimension on the 1/2 vs 3/4 ton truck. Do you think the 3/4 ton brackets might work on the 1/2 ton frame? Does anyone make non-drop strait rear bumper brackets or and I going to have to break out my plasma cutter and welder :) http://505hp.com/wp-content/uploads/...l-1024x683.jpg |
Re: 1950 Rear Bumper Brackets (non Drop)
I think those brackets are spring steel so maybe start from scratch or they may break next to the weld after a bit. more research may be needed though, I'm not totally positive.
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Re: 1950 Rear Bumper Brackets (non Drop)
I'm pretty sure they are a type of spring steel. I'd get a stick of the right width and thickness flat bar and make my own. It shouldn't be too hard to trace a pattern on something to be able to bend the flatbar to the right shape.
I always have thought that the bumper would look better if the top was up even with the bottom edge of the bed and not have that gap anyhow. |
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I was looking at a 3/4 ton bracket and the pictures looked like less of a drop but could not tell. |
Re: 1950 Rear Bumper Brackets (non Drop)
Hi Curt.
Could you maybe flip them to opposite sides ? Will definitely raise the bumper, but maybe too high. If so, make 2 offset mounting plates at the frame to shift down to the desired height. If they would remain out of sight. Just a notion. |
Re: 1950 Rear Bumper Brackets (non Drop)
3/4 ton frame is about ten inches narrower at the back so that won't work. I'm thinking that flipping the brackets would take the bumper up too high. I'm not sure if offset brackets would work but if they bolted to the frame on the outside they would push the bumper brackets out at the top and that would cause more issues as it can already be a battle of sorts to get the bumper brackets all hooked up in the stock location.
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something doesn't look right about that....I'm thinking flip the brackets as well...bottom of bumper should be about same level as bottom of fenders...
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after looking in the manual it does show the brackets drop down...but yours look like they have way more drop than the factory manual shows.....
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Re: 1950 Rear Bumper Brackets (non Drop)
Thanks for the feedback on the 3/4 ton.
As I recall when I installed the brackets I did try to swap the brackets and turn them the other way but they hit the bottom of the bed because the curve in the bracket starts pretty quick when it leave the chassis. When I pull it off I will check it again. I think I will just have to fab up some of my own because I would like to pull the bumper about 3 inches closer to the body in addition to raising it up. |
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fabbing a new set would let you put it where you want it anyway....
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https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9G8AA...PU7/s-l500.jpg |
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Check out Ls.fabrication on INSTAGRAM he is working on a set of brackets to raise bumper 3" and tuck it 3"....he already does them for the ford guys
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2 plates, 2 spacer blocks would allow you to use the existing brackets and position them precisely where you'd like. Up/down or In/out. IF they didn't stick down too far ..... but it doesn't look like they would. (see sketch) |
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Front bumper adapted to the rear to tuck the bumper in tight.
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Re: 1950 Rear Bumper Brackets (non Drop)
if you do a quick measure, would the existing brackets hit the bottom of the box if raised to where you want them? if so, just fab a set. you are gonna be fabbing adapter brackets for these brackets or fabbing a new set of brackets that will fit in one go.
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Re: 1950 Rear Bumper Brackets (non Drop)
If you plan to make your own brackets you may want to figure out where you're going to mount the license plate at the same time. I used the stock brackets and drilled new holes in the frame to move the bumper up as close as possible to the stock license plate mount.
You could add the splash apron or a roll pan behind the bumper to fill in the gap. |
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here is a side view, no where near to scale but illustrates the versatility of the mount. Drill the lower holes as desired.
Would be far simpler to cut and drill a few flat plates than to loose the integrity of your spring steel brackets by bending and drilling new ones from mild steel. |
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I took the front tag bracket from of a 2018 Nissan Maxima or Altima (forgot which it came from) and I rounded the sides to conform to the bumper and I used the center bumper bolt to secure it. Now when I raise the bumper up the tag has a home. I think once I raise the bumper up I will not need a filler. http://505hp.com/wp-content/uploads/...4-1024x509.jpg http://505hp.com/wp-content/uploads/...3-1024x576.jpg http://505hp.com/wp-content/uploads/...1-1024x576.jpg |
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That sure is a pretty truck ... and your shop looks like a laboratory clean room.
Your pride in workmanship really shows. :metal: |
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curt, are you some kinda sicko? throw some dirt on the floor or something, you're makin us look bad, haha
nice truck and shop. I hope to clean and paint my shop after the truck is done. that may be never at this rate, lol. |
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This is a link to a 360 video of the clean garage and fun space. Click Here for Video She lets me do what I want in the dirty garage that is under our concrete patio. Below are some pics of my dirty garage and should make you feel better :) It is concrete walls, gravel floor with a bunch of mismatch pavers a friend gave me to cover half of the space. It has 220v for my plasma and welder and I ran air from my compressor out there so it is also my poor mans paint booth, just lay down clean plastic and hose it out. http://505hp.com/wp-content/uploads/...6-1024x576.jpg http://505hp.com/wp-content/uploads/...0-1024x576.jpg |
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