Fel-Pro blueline pan gasket
Well the fel-pro blueline one piece pan gasket I used hasn’t lived up to the hype. With only a couple hundred kilometres on the truck, my rebuilt 1968 327 is leaking from the front and rear area of the pan.
Anybody used one of these with success? You guys using silicone with them? I can’t recall if I used any at the corners. I just ordered up a new finned aluminum oil pan that is hopefully a step up over the old tin one, not stoked to do the pan gasket with the engine in the truck. |
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If you jack the motor up a couple inches it will come out. Be mindful of the distributor cap and the bottom rad hose.
I slide a 2x2 between the mount and tower to give enough room. Sometimes you need to hand crank the motor over enough to swing the front rod journal up out of the way. And always remove the negative battery cable. No sparks wanted. With an old or new pan I’ve got in the habit of installing them dry. Just bolted on lightly at the four corners. Put a small flashlight inside the pan and you’ll easily be able to see any gaps on the sides and how parallel the gap is on the ends. I’ve had stock and aluminum pans not fit well. At least with steel you can wack them back into shape. |
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With what I just spent on the aluminum pan I’m hoping it fits nice. I’m not sure I can bring myself to install it again dry though, I’ll use the light trick and see how it looks. |
Re: Fel-Pro blueline pan gasket
I did a pan on a 396 about 4 times before I used the flashlight trick. Found a pinch point at the back. Used a 3 inch hunk of pipe and a 3 lb finishing hammer to clearance it.
My aluminum pan I had I couldn’t get to seal. It got used though. Flipped it upside down and attached some wheels on it from a golf cart and the neighbourhood tikes pushed each other around on it. It got of miles put on it that way! |
Re: Fel-Pro blueline pan gasket
I've used the Permatex blue one-piece pan gasket numerous times with success. You do need to put a dab of silicone at the corners where the rear main seal housing and timing cover make a dip.
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My one piece gasket leaks at the front edge. I mistakenly thought I wouldn't need to use sealer like the old three piece gaskets. This is on a factory steel pan but with a plastic Vortec timing cover.
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Fel Pro says not to use any RTV on their silicone rubber pan gaskets. I don't follow those instructions, I still use some on the end seals and in the corners. Its not the gasket will be damaged by RTV use. I just used Rite Stuff front and rear and in the corners on my 383. It has a stock pan and a cheap chrome timing cover. Shockingly, it didn't leak when I dyno tested it. |
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I didn’t really consider that, I know these finned aluminum pans have been around since the 60’s when Cal Custom was making them. The Rite Stuff isn’t cheap but it’s worth it, will be using the black version. |
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Well it looks like I got a ton of useful advice that I didn’t end up needing. I just dropped the pan off and didn’t need to raise the engine.
I did a front crossmember swap out of a ‘82 c20 back when I had it torn down and that must’ve increased my clearance. I wasn’t aware that would’ve changed anything. |
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So were you able to eliminate the leaks?
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Good luck!
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When I did mine on my C20 I had to raise the engine. Used a couple of 2x4's. Not a fun job but it worked.
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