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-   -   No Power To The Key Switch (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=740174)

1972k10shortbed 06-14-2017 09:02 PM

No Power To The Key Switch
 
Guys I've messed around with the wiring on one of my Blazers and I just can't get the key switch to turn over the starter. I've tested power to the fuse panel switched power and don't have power there either.

While I was testing things I noticed neither plug for the neutral safety switch are on the column. I crossed both plugs over with wire, since the neutral Safety Switch is gone on my column and no luck there either. I am going to replace the column with one that has the switch though.

However when I turn the keyswitch, the fuel gauge goes crazy and reads way past full. I replaced the forward lamp harness and since I'm doing an LS swap, the only wires I need from the engine harness are the starter wires and fan blower motor. The Engine Harness came from a running driving truck so I know its good.

If anybody has any ideas, I'd REALLY appreciate the help.

THANKS, Hunter :chevy:

HO455 06-14-2017 09:29 PM

Re: No Power To The Key Switch
 
First question is how are you testing for power?

HO455 06-14-2017 09:32 PM

Re: No Power To The Key Switch
 
Here is everything to know about fuel guages. After you get the starter problem fixed.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=640615

1972k10shortbed 06-14-2017 09:32 PM

Re: No Power To The Key Switch
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HO455 (Post 7967662)
First question is how are you testing for power?

Well I haven't actually tested the power to the switch. I just assumed it may not be getting power to it. All I know is the harness has power, the lights work, and the keyswitch doesn't and the switched power has no power to it.

HO455 06-14-2017 10:05 PM

Re: No Power To The Key Switch
 
OK first thing to do is verify all the battery cables are clean and securely connected on both ends, positive and negative side. A bad connection at one of those four places could cause your symptoms. (I am assuming that your negative lead goes to a nice clean spot on the engine. If not it needs to.) Then with a test light or meter check the purple wire to a known good ground for 12vdc when the ignition switch is in the start position. The plug at the steering column with the two purple wires needs to have a jumper from one purple wire to the other one. The other plug is for your back up lights. The purple wire will continue through the firewall and to the small bolt usually marked S on the starter solenoid. If you have power at the switch then move to the jumper at the steering column. If that is proves good move to the large purple wire in the upper half of the firewall plug on the engine side. If that is good now you have to check for power at the solenoid. If you have power there the starter or solenoid is bad. There are lots of drawings online for 72 C10s which should help you. If you have no power at the switch then check the large red wire for power in both the run and start positions. Each time you move your ground lead to a new location check it against a known good source of power, or run a ground lead to the neg post on the battery that is long enough to reach everywhere.

orangek5 06-15-2017 07:03 PM

Re: No Power To The Key Switch
 
Dumb Question. or maybe not. Do you have it in Park?

1972k10shortbed 06-15-2017 08:17 PM

Re: No Power To The Key Switch
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by orangek5 (Post 7968389)
Dumb Question. or maybe not. Do you have it in Park?

Well yes. But the column safety switch is gone so I just have it crossed over with a wire to bypass the missing switch. That may be my biggest problem


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