The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/index.php)
-   Engine & Drivetrain (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=24)
-   -   Rear drum specs (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=733153)

MASTERBrian 03-18-2017 11:14 PM

Rear drum specs
 
My front spindles will be in I Monday, so I've started stripping the brakes/spindles up front. My understanding is the drums and pads are the same front and rear on a 1960.

So, I figure to help speed things up maybe I can get the front drums turned and start getting ready for the rear, so I've the front is on the ground I can quickly move to the rear My concern is well the parts store have the specs....So if anyone has these, I'd love to know.

James the III 03-19-2017 07:56 AM

Re: Rear drum specs
 
Don't have the spec's for you..
But most times the fronts are wider than the rears.. If the rears have 2" wide shoes the fronts many times will have 2.5" wide..
So I'd double check this before you think of mixing front and rear parts..

MASTERBrian 03-19-2017 09:51 AM

Re: Rear drum specs
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by James the III (Post 7890549)
Don't have the spec's for you..
But most times the fronts are wider than the rears.. If the rears have 2" wide shoes the fronts many times will have 2.5" wide..
So I'd double check this before you think of mixing front and rear parts..

I'll check, but when I was pricing the rear parts out the pads, drums and hardware were all the same part numbers. The wheel cylinder and brake lines were different.

MASTERBrian 03-19-2017 10:04 AM

Re: Rear drum specs
 
One other question while dealing with this, well sitting for fifteen years have any effect on durability of the shoes, hardware and the wheel cylinder? Should they be a definite replacement or if they still appear to have life left, would you run them. So far what I've pulled off the front looked ok. I kind of wonder if worth holding onto the parts from the front such as the shoes and hardware or if that could be safety chosen.

I'll probably replace the wheel cylinders, just because I'd worry about the seals going bad. Once again, if it's better to just replace it all, then I will otherwise I'll spend then money elsewhere for now. It's not like a brake job is very difficult.

Also, I was looking on O'Reilly website just a minute ago and it appears they do have those specs from above. Didn't realize they listed all of that, so I'm apparently good there and they are also showing same drums and shoes front/back.

James the III 03-19-2017 11:50 AM

Re: Rear drum specs
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian (Post 7890628)
One other question while dealing with this, well sitting for fifteen years have any effect on durability of the shoes, hardware and the wheel cylinder? Should they be a definite replacement or if they still appear to have life left, would you run them. So far what I've pulled off the front looked ok. I kind of wonder if worth holding onto the parts from the front such as the shoes and hardware or if that could be safety chosen.

I'll probably replace the wheel cylinders, just because I'd worry about the seals going bad. Once again, if it's better to just replace it all, then I will otherwise I'll spend then money elsewhere for now. It's not like a brake job is very difficult.

Also, I was looking on O'Reilly website just a minute ago and it appears they do have those specs from above. Didn't realize they listed all of that, so I'm apparently good there and they are also showing same drums and shoes front/back.

if the shoes are riveted on to the metal backing run them, if they are bonded, it might be questionable..
the springs, you can reuse, it not heavily rusted.. drums have them turned..
wheel cyl. are cheap.. I tend to flush the fluid, check the outer boot for cracks, and then put it all together and stomp on the brakes, pull drum.. no leak at the cyl, run it..

crazy longhorn 03-23-2017 11:20 PM

Re: Rear drum specs
 
I guess that I might be a little anal, on brake work....I did it in the shops, & also in my home garage (no insurance there). I have just about NEVER, pulled a dust boot off a wheel cyl, without seeing a leaker! On an old truck, that has set for a few yrs, I would replace the wheel cyls, turn the drums, & replace the shoes. IMO, there is no reason to turn drums or rotors & not replace shoes or pads. as far as the hardware, if its good, use it.....just remember this. If you have to do the job 2 times, it will cost you more money;) Longhorn

MASTERBrian 03-23-2017 11:30 PM

Re: Rear drum specs
 
I'm show I'll just replace everything the cost isn't too bad on these. As I said above, I'm pretty certain I'll replace the wheel cylinders. The front shoes are riveted, but when I looked more closely at the front ones they've got some cracks I don't like.

crazy longhorn 03-24-2017 01:52 AM

Re: Rear drum specs
 
When you see the heat cracks.....well , I dont need to tell you....you have it figured out;) Take your time, do it 1 time & save yourself the dollars & the head ouwch! Best of fun, Longhorn

MASTERBrian 03-24-2017 01:54 AM

Re: Rear drum specs
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn (Post 7895001)
When you see the heat cracks.....well , I dont need to tell you....you have it figured out;) Take your time, do it 1 time & save yourself the dollars & the head ouwch! Best of fun, Longhorn

The wheel bearings were the scary part!


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:07 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com