Door Gaps grrrrr
 

I've spent around 40 hrs trying to line up panel gaps on aftermarket fenders and doors. I have everything nearly perfect except door gaps in the window areas. The closest I can get is 7/16" in front and 3/8" in rear. I can not move the doors anymore as the lowers gaps are right. What are the tolerances in these areas?

These photos are with weather stripping installed

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https://www.beamingpix.com/images/20...y_768x1024.jpg

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https://www.beamingpix.com/images/20...y_768x1024.jpg

Re: Door Gaps grrrrr
 

What is the gap on the bottom? Do the body lines below the windows line up?

Some folks have had to cut the spot welds on the window frame and reposition the frame and reweld the frame. I need to do it on my Burban. The frame wasn't installed square and true to the door. But, it was good enough for GM back in 67. :lol:

Re: Door Gaps grrrrr
 

Align the door to the rocker and back side of cab/body lines.

Fender should have enough adjustment to gap based on that. You may have to split the difference in a sense between the door and the fender, then adjust the hoop.

Gap the hoop to fit as desired. Some apparently have bent the hoop with force or used a BFH. I tried those and was worried about damaging the hinges (while mounted on the truck). I will probably cut the hoop at the joint, then use a bfh to move where desired and reweld.

Once you get it pretty close mark around the hinges with a paint pen or marker so you can locate it. I wouldn't drill locator holes until you are ready for final bodywork.

Some are a lot easier than others. It just depends how close they were to start. Just my experience but wouldn't say I'm great or very experienced at it.:lol:

Re: Door Gaps grrrrr
 

I got the front bottom and back gaps almost perfect. The door can't go up anymore as the body line will not line up to cab also the curved section on top is tight to the cab . It looks like the frame isn't wide enough to fit the space to have 3/16" gaps front and back

Re: Door Gaps grrrrr
 

You wont even need a small hammer to move the hoop if you get the welds drilled out. I have one of those fancy [rolling] truck tools spot weld driller outer thingy[ about $400 something] and it stays in the box most of the time I use a HF double ended drill bit[1/8] and also a HF drill bit that has many sizes on it some call it a christmas tree bit. I think it works as well as the spot weld cutter. After you drill out the hoop welds I have a Steck brand tool that is called a spot weld splitter and I run it down in there but if your dead on with the centering of the drill bits you may not even need it. The best test to try before this action is to put in the vent glass and check its fit. Now sometimes on some doors you could push forward on the hoop with a portopower. Place one end at the bottom back like where the lock knob would be and the other end up by the top of where the vent glass would be and give it a push That will tighten the gap by the A pillar[more to the top] and also open the b pillar and cab corner gap. Good luck if I can help holler. Jim