6" body drop is done
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Well, the 6 " body drop (or 6" crossmember raise) is done. At least it is cut in and welded back in place. I should have the lower a-arms back on it this coming weekend so I can see it sitting on all four tires and rolling. Lots of work left to do, but the drop is in place.
I should be able to put the a-arms back in place and bolt the steering back up to where it was. The section of the frame the crossmember is located in will not know anything was ever done. I have about 3 inches of clearance under my crossmember right now, but the lower a-arms are not on yet. |
Re: 6" body drop is done
wow that's overkill wouldn't feel safe driving the truck
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Re: 6" body drop is done
also that not a bodydrop that call that a "z" frame
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Po-tay-toe Poe-tat-oh All I know is my crossmember and upper/lower control arms stayed in "exactly" the same spot in elevation and function, and the entire body (core support, cab, and bed) dropped 6 inches in elevation. But yeah, we can call it a 6" Z frame cut if you like? |
Re: 6" body drop is done
Don't think I've ever seen a Z quite this severe. It especially looks interesting versus the "small" notch in the rear that doesn't lay frame completely.
What are your other plans for the truck build? |
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It is on the frame. With the body hanging over the cab mounts, it should be sitting body on the ground. How much lower can I go? Not being a smart a**, just this is my first lowering project on a C-10. I really need someone to give me a measurement as to how much lower the pinch weld is that the top of the front cab mounts. I no longer have a point of reference. Just know, it's low. And lowered without a bunch of high dollar parts. If I need to I could notch the rearend lower, but I don't think it is needed. As to other plans for the truck, I just bought an LS-1 motor with a T56 6 speed transmission to go into it. |
Re: 6" body drop is done
No wonder it turned out like this cause its your first time dealing with anything like this....bodydrop is where you welded the 2x4 in the frame an chopped off the bottom of the frame....the front is just a 'z' an has nothing to do with a bodydrop it jus makes you lay frame.....smh
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Re: 6" body drop is done
I would say you have a lot more bracing and welding to do. Going on experience from many builds over the last 40 years you may find you went to far. You still need to get a drive line in it and it needs to go in at angles that are workable. Then with all the braces gone what needs to be done to get the torsional stiffness back in the frame. You still need to deal with the location of the wheels now in the front fenders, the amount you will need to cut the fire wall and the floor, your ability to get a seat in it with the driveline up that high, can you get a gas pedal in it, is there room to move the bottom of the column up, and a host of other issues that need to be looked at when you build something like this. This is your first one and I think you need to step back and look at this a little closer.
Jimmy |
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Re: 6" body drop is done
I wondered about the same concerns. But, I don't have any negative feedback as Cooperhw seems to be aware there are multiple obstacles to overcome & stated when he started he will be the first to admit if he comes across something that's insurmountable.
I've been following his effort & I'm pretty sure he's trying to address basics before all the finish work of boxing the rails @ this point. He needed dimensions for the cab overhang vs top/bottom of the rail last I read. |
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Maybe they are right? Maybe not? Time will tell. Hell, it's only a frame, right? Guy here in Arizona has 3 of them stacked up from vehicles he parted out. I can replace this one if needed for the grand total of $150. Other than time, grinding/cut off wheels, and welding wire/gas I am not out anything. Not to mention I LOVE BUILDING PROJECTS. My second to last project was posted here in the 67-72 projects and builds section with the name Meet Homer. I took a rotten old 68 motorhome 1 ton dually and shortened the frame 60 inches and widened the step side bed to create a pretty cool truck. Rode like a tank, but otherwise,,,, Lastly, I like to think that we are all either "Can't Do or Can Do kind of guys. Me, "I like to think of myself as a CAN DO" person. I overcome hurdles as they present themselves instead of scrapping my idea because something may be difficult down the road. :metal: |
Re: 6" body drop is done
FYI, you haven't dropped the body an inch.
A body drop consists of cutting the floor and raising it, so the rest of the body will sit lower on the frame. You will need to do a ton of boxing/welding, and even that may not be enough. If you get in a front end collision(nobody plans on it), the frame will buckle at the Z and chop your feet off. |
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Do you post all this negativity towards each and every frame that is Z cut or am I special? If, If, If,goodbye feet. :lol::waah::waah::waah: |
Re: 6" body drop is done
My comment on the fenders is not the location front to back it is the location up into the fenders and the stock track width. My concern is at ride height you will have an issue with the tire not clearing the fender when you turn. We used to build cars on a chassis plate/fixture and could place the body on the fixture and work out the clearance issues as we went. You can do the same thing with several pieces of 4" box tube a little wider than the truck and a couple of 20 foot sticks of 2X2" Frame it up like a ladder with 2 pieces supporting the cab and one at each wheel centerline. Level it front to back and side to side. That becomes the ground and is straight and level. Then block the frame and body at 4 1/2 to 5 " for ride height. and tack weld it in place. Now you can pull a centerline down the middle and work off of stuff you know is flat. Now you have the ability to set stuff in and test where it needs to go before doing a bunch of welding and see what problems may arise as you go.
Jimmy |
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Re: 6" body drop is done
he did bodydrop it by welding the 2x4 in the frame an cutting the bottom of frame off....its called a stock floor bodydrop
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Re: 6" body drop is done
You have 2 inches more Z than I. Just some things I ran across that might help.
Try to lower the engine as far as you can get while still clearing the steering and rear of the trans off the ground. I ended up sectioning my cross member to do so but I kept the tunnel tight and have stock seats and carpet. You are going to be near the hood and into the firewall significantly if you don't. I don't think your driveline angles will be an issue. My trans and rear end are about the same height at ride height. You will need to shorten your control arms to steer and clear the hood hinges when you air out (unless you pic some good backspacing and narrower rims). You might be able to run stock spindles and be okay. Weld a piece on the underside of your front horns to make it significantly stronger. Weld in a cross member between the front as well. Plan that our so you can still use an engine hoist. |
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Re: 6" body drop is done
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quick peak at my last 3 builds |
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