Ball joints and tie rods
 

How loose should these be when I pull the spindle off? I'm debating replacing them, but curious if I need to.

My CPP spindles and brakes are all finally here and I've pulled the spindle lose on the passenger side. The joint, itself looks good, but of course the grease is nasty and dried up from sitting for years. Some parts move very freely, some are a bit stiff. Nothing has movement up /down in the joint.

It's on my 60, cpp's kit is a few weeks out and $300, so I hate to replace if I don't need to, but also don't want to be right back here in two months if I should.

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

Replace it now

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

Based on that, is there any preference in brand for the 1960, which can get stupid expensive?

CPP sells the kits with both upper/lower ball joints, tie rods, and I think idler arms for about $300. Imo, that's a fair price but I think they are several weeks out. I know there are a few others out there that also sell their kit for about same price.

Next up, what about control arms? The upper seems to move a bit, side to side, so I'm thinking it's seen better days as well...what is acceptable there?

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

Local auto parts store should have what you need.....i would go with moog brand its what everyone prefers.

An the control u can try an find a good used one cause i dont think they make new ones but i might be wrong

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

Local auto parts stores are not reasonably priced on the lower or even upper ball joints. It does appear they make the control arm joint. CPP has the uppers for $60 a pair and the lowers for about $90. Once again, not sure about lead time.

On the control arm is there any play that is acceptable when the joint is totally unloaded? I don't recall any play in the wheels when they were on, so I'm not sold any off this stuff is truly shot, but I am here now and I realize now's the time to do it. I just question, do I let it hold me up 30+ days OR do I run it and if I notice anything once together replace it then AND enjoy her while I wait on the parts.

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

Look up the moog numbers and then try Amazon on the parts. I did this a few years ago and got really good prices on ball joints. Also look at rock auto. If the upper will move side to side I would think its time to put shafts and bushings in it.
Jimmy

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

Don't buy CPP ball joints. They are Chinese made crap and tend to fail. Buy some name brand ones from Rock Auto or Amazon.

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

I'm not going to debate the quality of the moog joints, but they are about $50 each for the top, if I can get that price. Fine, again, not debating that worth. Problem is I'm not seeing them for the lower. I've even checked their site and none listed.

So the dilemma now is what do I do there? I've also been told about this place and they sell an entire kit and told they are good a well.
http://stores.a-resto-parts.com/1960...ith-idler-arm/

As for cpp, I thought they made them in house, is that not true?

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

[QUOTE=PGSigns;7892438If the upper will move side to side I would think its time to put shafts and bushings in it.
Jimmy[/QUOTE]

The upper A arm doesn't seem to move side to side. If I grab each side with a hand and pave it level I can get a little pay if I push/pull it to and from the frame. Think of a bolt in too big of a hole. I'm not yet sure how to check the lower, maybe once I brake the spindle free from the ball joint.

Harbor freight had some pneumatic pickling forks that fit in an air chosen for $10. Think those are worth it our just see about free rental from O'Reilly?

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

:lol: Nope.

Folks have had these (I am on a Nova forum, El Camino forum and Tri-5 forum) fail shortly after installing with minimal drive miles on them. A few have even had the studs themselves brake or being loose out of the box. Folks would buy complete arms and replace the ball joints right out of the box, since that was the failure prone part. Arms seemed to be okay.

I am not saying Moog is the only brand but I would stay away from CPP ball joints.

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

Thanks.

Just spent about the last 30-45 min on the phone with the guy from A-Resto-Parts and the order is placed. I guess time will tell, but he seemed very helpful and sold me that he has a good part and they are in stock hopefully going out today.

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

Moving on to the A-arm the upper right has some play, so I'm guessing these need replaced as well. I'll check it against the driver side once I get the spindle off there.

The question is how do I check the lower? It doesn't seem like I'll be able to move it with the torsion...

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

I bought my entire front and Ball joints, inner and outer tie rods and everything off rockauto. Its ALL moog. Been good for 2 years so far

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

You also appear to have a 65, I have a 60....BIG difference when it comes to the front end. Unfortunately, moog makes very little for the 60.

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

following, looking at replacing these same parts on my '61. Should have done it when i put on the spindles...

Re: Ball joints and tie rods
 

On the control arms, if the arm drops by itself (upper) is it time to replace the bushings? This also begs the question, do i replace just the bushing or that whole 'rod'? I see both parts listed for sale.

No clue how to tell on the lower or the torsion bar. I think on those, unless someone has an answer, I'll just see what the axle place says.