Truck wonders
 

Morning all, well my question is what do I need to add rack and pinion to my truck. I did a LS 6.0 swap in my truck and want it to be more user friendly when I drive. I replaced all the suspension back to factory new. But the truck still wonders and has bump steer when I let off the gas. Thanks

Re: Truck wonders
 

Your problem might be because your center link is installed backwards. The nuts on the joints should be facing forward. That changes everything....

LockDoc

Re: Truck wonders
 

See above

Re: Truck wonders
 

I am in the midst of a bolt in install from Flaming River. I will update you on any difference in driveability. Also, I can’t speak to fitment with an LS. I am installing with a 250 L6 and will require a roughly 1/2 in motor mount lift.

Kevin

Re: Truck wonders
 

Not understanding what you mean....

He said his truck "still wanders and has bump steer when I let off the gas" and I said the problem might be because his center link is installed backwards, which it is, and which could cause the problems he is seeing. He may not need to go to the trouble and expense of installing a rack if correcting that regains his "driver friendliness"

Cryptic posts don't add anything to the thread.

LockDoc

Re: Truck wonders
 

x2


Is that better? LOL!

Re: Truck wonders
 

It's a wOnder the truck doesn't wAnder with that thang thataway.

Re: Truck wonders
 

:haha::haha::haha:

see above = what Doc said or x2

Re: Truck wonders
 

Flip that center link and save a few bucks! With everything new it should drive pretty well.

Re: Truck wonders
 

Much better. Thanks.

LockDoc

Re: Truck wonders
 

First off thanks for all the helpful replies. I just came from my new mechanic who's going to switch it around for me we'll see if that solves the problem.

Take a sec to enjoy how far I've come from when I first got this suspension redone on this truck true craftsmanship

Re: Truck wonders
 

Yup, don't see that everyday. Reminds me of the Burban I looked at buying that had the springs removed to lower it.
Good job on cleaning that mess up.

Re: Truck wonders
 

Good deal. Keep us up to speed on the outcome.

LockDoc

Re: Truck wonders
 

Ok well ****, now I just realized my centerlink is on backwards. More work for me. Yay.

Re: Truck wonders
 

Any advice on removing the pitman arm and idler arm from the centerlink without ruining my brand new parts and dust boots?

Re: Truck wonders
 

Use the right tools. Pickle fork or ball joint remover. They're brand new, shouldn't be hard to remove.

Re: Truck wonders
 

To try to save the boots I would use an air chisel. I would pad it with brass or aluminum and hammer on the threaded end of the pitman and idler arm. Do the same on the tie rod end if you can get to it.
Or, use the pickle fork as a pry bar while using the air chisel on the tie rod arm. Try to not let the pickle fork contact the rubber with this method.

Lastly you could put force pulling the tapered joint(tie rod, Idler, pitman) while hitting the side of the female taper with a large hammer.

Re: Truck wonders
 

You need a puller for the pitman arm. Local autozone loans the tool for free. You can also buy it at harbor freight for about $8. Smack the side of the centerlink with a sledgehammer to remove the idler arm, it should pop right out since it’s new. I use a pickle fork on old stuff that’s coming out to be replaced, where damage to the rubber boot doesn’t matter.

Re: Truck wonders
 

Ok cool. I have a pitman puller, but wasn't planning to pull the pitman arm off the gearbox.
Was thinking:
Unscrew each tierod connector, leave the tie rods on the centerlink. Then remove the centerlink from the idler and pitman (tapered side). Then flip it 180. That'd put the tierod bolts frontwards.

I can prob make a brass rod to fit into my air chisel. Since they're new, make just smacking the centerlink with a dead blow hammer would free it? IDK, just don't wanna ruin $100 worth of new Moog parts.

Re: Truck wonders
 

Hitting it will knock the tapered joint loose but hitting it without pressure pulling it outwards will probably not do anything. They also make a screw type tie rod puller which may fit the idler and pitman arm, I'm just not sure of the fit, they usually don't fit well. If you can borrow one at oreillys or autozone it would be worth a try.

I suspect you have a recent alignment....you could save that alignment by measuring the toe in before you change the parts out and then adjusting to the same spec after the switch.
To replicate the toe in, roll the tires over 2 layers of plastic sheeting, thick black garbage bag pieces(reduces friction of tire on the ground), wire a board across each tire through the wheels, measure the distance front and rear of the tire using the boards, subtract front from rear distance to get current toe in.
Adjust each side equally to replicate this distance once you switch the parts out.

Re: Truck wonders
 

Hasn't been aligned yet, still assembling it.

Re: Truck wonders
 

So after some more looking around we found this too :waah:

Re: Truck wonders
 

Wait, are the A-Arms connected to the frame with U bolts?

-Paul

Re: Truck wonders
 

Ooops! That doesn't look good.

LockDoc

Re: Truck wonders
 

subscribed, wanna see how this turns out!