Seam sealer
 

I'm getting my floor all done and I'm wondering if I need seam sealer. I butt welded as best I could, is seam sealer only for lap welds?

Would I be fine spraying primer and coating it? I was thinking of undercoating the bottom of the cab, and rhinolining the inside. Might be a while until I get carpet and I would think roll on rhino liner would be just fine under it.

Always open to advice. You guys have more experience than me.

Re: Seam sealer
 

i would use seam sealer just for piece of mind ---you can never tell about pinholes or small separations --- just my opinion -- i used it on my 57 then used a good sealer on top of the whole floor ---- do it once and your good to good --- good luck on project

Re: Seam sealer
 

Over bare metal?

Re: Seam sealer
 

I use liquid nails fuze-it as seam sealer. it bonds anything to anything, in fact I use it to install the window felts, glass in the channel, everything. I used to use F26 construction adhesive but the fuze-it is superior.

Re: Seam sealer
 

No kidding? Over primer too?

And whichever one I use, I need to do both inside and outside of the welds right? In cab and underneath?

Re: Seam sealer
 

most seam sealer needs to have at least a coat of primer underneath....

Re: Seam sealer
 

The typical application is prime it, then apply a seam sealer. You can step it up with a 2K seam sealer where it cures because it has a hardener. Or a 1k would be one that doesn't use a hardener. http://www.evercoat.com/product-deta...ber/100821/us/

The only 2k that I know of that doesn't require a special (not cheap) gun is Evercoat.
http://www.evercoat.com/product-deta...ber/100822/us/

Brian

Re: Seam sealer
 

Bare steel always and only needs epoxy primer. Any kind of seam sealer designed for automotive is best, and as Brian mentions, a 2K is best.

A single stage urethane paint would suffice as a top coat. I wouldn't use any kind of a bed liner product inside the cab because it serves no purpose, adds cost and is hard to remove should you want to. Unless your planning on throwing garden equipment, a yard of gravel or anything that can damage paint inside your cab, paint is all you need.:mm:

Re: Seam sealer
 

I have used this with very good results -

Dynatron Seam Sealer is a fast-skinning, permanently elastic, non-sagging formulation that is brushable and paintable. Provides excellent adhesion to bare metal or painted surfaces and is a non-staining, all-purpose autobody joint and seam sealer

Re: Seam sealer
 

Yes, some do have recommendations for bare metal. I have to say, I mentioned 2k and yes that is the best. But something like this Dyatron on the interior seams is PLENTY good without a doubt. The 2k seam sealer would be the proper one to use on painted seams like the one along the back of the cab or roof, rain gutters, that sort of thing. But inside, and under the floor, that Dyatron is perfectly fine. Though, this is in sunny California if you really wanted to make a protected floor from the underside, a good coating of epoxy primer and then a 2k sealer and then a urethane paint would be my recommendation.

Brian

Re: Seam sealer
 

.
I totaly agree and it doesn't matter Clean metal or painted
Apply liberaly Fat and thick (Not for show)

Re: Seam sealer
 

I think I'm leaning towards this dynatron. Seems a bit more noob friendly. My welds are not the prettiest, and I was worried about my wire wheel missing bits here and there.

Re: Seam sealer
 

I used this same tube. Went on great. 24hours or so to dry [strike]cure[/strike] and it was all sealed up. Wear gloves as its a pain in the A:hh: to wash off.

Re: Seam sealer
 

Alright, I think I'm definitely buying this. I'll wire wheel all my seams just in case, apply the sealer, wait a day or two then prime and paint the floor. Sound right?

Re: Seam sealer
 

What Brian said. You can sub the Dynatron for the 2k sealer if you like.

Re: Seam sealer
 

I don't want to be picky correcting this statement but I want it to be clear so everyone understands the differences.

This Dynatron sealer is a "1K" product and doesn't "cure" at all, it simply "dries."

There is a big difference and I just want to sure everyone understands. "Curing" is a chemical transformation like with an epoxy, it literally becomes another material with the bonding of molecules in it between the hardener and the sealer, or clear or primer or whatever becoming a completely different material than either of the two were alone. "Curing" only happens with a 2K. I don't want to say "only" because there are some freaky 1k products out there that "Cure" in a sort, window Urethane sealant for instance, it's a "moisture cure."

But a sealer like this Dynatron is a 1k that "dries" by the solvents leaving it, which is why if you apply it too thick it sometimes won't dry and it will be soft in the middle. It's "drying" like house paint, it's that simple.

1k products are typically soluble after they dry and an be melted with a product like lacquer thinner. Where as a 2k is as said another material once cured and insoluble.


Brian

Re: Seam sealer
 

You guys are always very helpful and informative. I'm learning a lot through this project. The differences in seam sealers being one. For now I'm concentrating on the inside, and it sounds like this dynatron would be best for me at the moment. When I get to the exterior, it sounds like I need to use a 2k product. I'll be asking plenty of questions once I get to the exterior, I've helped with bodywork, but I've never done the painting myself, that'll all be new to me.