Everything you wanted to know about van column install
 

Just moved neutral saftey on my van column and thought I'd post what it took.I got a 68-72 column at swap meet today so I finally had a template to go by.Needed air cutoff tool , dremel cutoff tool, magnet,and 9/64" drill bit

I first drew center line from top of column tube to the notch at bottom of shift mech. Then measured up 5 1/2" from notch in shift mechinism for the bottom end of neutral notch.

Next drew 5/8" wide lines and 1 1/16" long in each direction from center line

Used a regular air cutoff tool to cut out the hole . Didn't have to worry about the lenght of lines to much as the switch hides the overlap.

Next I marked off the inside slot. I found it to be just a 1/16" off the center line, The full 5/8" of your first cut and 3/8" or slightly wider for the tang of the switch to fit in

I used cutoff tool for the perpendicular cuts but had to use a dremel cutoff wheel to get down into the tube for the straight cuts. I found my dremel wheel was just alittle large to go down in but after grinding for a few seconds the wheel shrinks down enugh to get in.

I used a small magnet to pickup any filings that fell in (not sure if thats a concern or not. Once the inner hole was cut I just set the switch in and Drilled 2 9/64" holes for the switch in the center of the elongated switch holes and bolted it back down. The colmn I got today was an original tilt and thats where I got the 5 1/2" measurement from. I have not got it mounted in the truck yet but its now the same as a factory tilt as far as location so don't know why it wouldn't fit.

I just posted this cause I have been setting on my column and thought maybe some of this info could help someone else

Neutral safety switch van wiring
 

Seems to be some confusion and don't think this has been addressed
1.First check faqs for remounting neutral safety switch on van column.

2.If you are going to mount column closer to dash than factory you may want to move the location up 1/2 - 3/4" to clear firewall as mounting closer will move switch closer to firewall.

the Neutral safety switch on van is usally different than original pickup tilt so you will have to do some mods if you want switch to operate properly

As you see in the pic the pickup switch has an L shaped setup for backup lights and van has 2 horizontal plugs.
If you are really lucky when you got the column you saved the 2 plugs and can just rewire the ends for the backup lights.
The neutral safety switch doesn''t require a new end
heres 2 different switches

For the neutral safety switch plug from the pickup to work on new van switch you only have to break off the little black plastic tab just below the bottom prong.
I just used a screwdriver and pushed it over
Then it will plug right in
Neutral switch done !!
next backups

For the back ups plug you either have to wire on the new flat plug if you kept it .
First few I forgot!!
Soooooooo
Cut the end (L Shaped from the pickup plug) and crimp on 2 flat spade type plugs and push those on the switch prongs

next is the shifter light plug

just cut it off , crimp on spade end and plug it in to the open spot on the fuse box marked in pic

Thanks Solver! This NEEDS to go to the FAQ section. Mods???

I case you are wondering I don't think you can just swap plugs as the inside the column tangs are different.

here is a pic and labels for comparison of 2 plugs

then you may still have to loosen screws holding switch and adjust for neutral unless you get lucky and line it up right the first time

hope this helps with the internal wiring for the van column

Column removal for tilt replacement


1 remove 2 nut at rag joint just above power steering box

2 loosen tranny shift rod nut and pull shift rod down and out of retainer
I always spray a squirt of black paint in that area so when I remove and replace I can see where it was attached before
3 remove 2 bolts in firewall from column support plate
4 loosen and remove the bolt on the retaining ring clamping column to support plate

In Cab parts
(optional remove steering wheel for more clearance when pulling colmun from truck)
5 remove 2 small bolts holding the boot retaining ring to firewall
6 disconnct the 2 set of wires at nuetral saftey switch
7 reach up in under dash bezel and remove the 1 bulb with the fiber optic cable and let it hang down
8 pull the wire harness connector just under steering column apart

9 remove 2 screws holding the column grommet retaining plate
10 remove 4 bolts on column support plate under dash
11 remove 2 bolts up under dash holding the column support strap
12 slowly pull the whole steering column towards you slowly working the whole column up and out
13 may have to check the intermediate shaft as it will hang up on the inner fender if it isn't turned just right
14 also may have to tip and twist colmun alittle for the tranny shift lever to clear firewall hole. That is where the sterring wheel removal makes job easier
15 Remove whole sterring colomun and intermediate shaft from truck

16 disconnct intermediate shaft from old column
17 collapse intermediate shaft

follow faqs for column prep (1.neutral saftey relocation 2. neutral saftey rewire)
18 reattach intermediate shaft to new column
may need to slice the 2 grommets to attach to new column or some say you can bend tranny lever and slip them over
I sliced boot and grommet and then cut retaining ring so it would go on new column
20 reverse removal steps to install
21 add adapter for wire harness
neutral saftey faq
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=63328

neutral saftey rewire
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...neutral+safety

anything I forgot please feel free to add

so how exactly are you guys collapsing the shaft? Does it have to be done on a vise or can it be done in the truck? I would love to move the colum a few inches closer to the dash...

Pretty sure you will have to remove from truck.
I have put 6 of the van tilts in now and of those I could not get 2 of the intermediate shafts to collapse. Had to use other ones. You can drill out the 4 plastic pins (2 each side) you can see them in the pic as the 2 white dots half way down the shaft . Some have collapsed without removing the pins. Need to put it upright on the concrete floor and wack the end of it. I also sprayed with pb blaster so that when it started to move it moved easier. I also stuck a long bolt in the inside and wacked it back out further and then back in again a few times till it would adjust with very little pressure. This is kind of important as once you get it back in the truck you will want it to slide back a forth in size till you get it just where you want it in lenght. As this will regulate how close the steering column sticks out towards you.

Solver.....Just checking to see if this shaft has been collapsed ? I will be putting it all back together this week and wanted to make sure.

Thanks,
Bret

Harvey can't tell from pic but you need to be able to slide part 1 into and out of part 2 so once installed it will adjust. Doesn't need to be real loose just enough to be able to pull it couple of inches each direction by hand

Measured them both last night.
TRUCK COLUMN: 1 15/16" (let's just call it 2" and be done)
VAN COLUMN: 4 3/8"

So, if we call that 2" for the truck and 4.5" for the van, then Bob is correct at 2.5" longer for the van.

72-early82 van columns. with the earlier years you dont need the horse shoe to straight adapter, but the later years auto shifter lever is shorter