Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

I have a 66 c10 2wd long bed I'm doing an ls/4l60 swap in. I have tried searching for a clear answer to my questions everywhere but can't seem to find any. The truck will make around 500hp give or take and be sitting low. It originally had a 2 piece driveshaft. I'm wanting to switch to a 1 piece. Comparing the original shaft to the driveshafts they use in trucks today it seems the crossmember will need to be changed to allow a bigger diameter driveshaft and possibly accommodate the lower ride height. So I guess what I'm asking is it as simple as changing the crossmember and having a driveshaft made or is there more to it than that? Thanks in advance for your time.
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Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

I have the same question!
Went to Driveshaft Specialists in Tampa
Said I had to stay with the 2 piece.
I have a TH400 requiring a bolt-on yoke.
Also being told the yoke on the rear is missing the tabs.
Frustrated now!

Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

See attached

Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

See attached

Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

I don't understand what so many insist on a one piece driveshaft in a long bed. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 2pc driveshaft as long as you go with the HD version, not the light duty one that has the carrier bearing that hangs from the top of the crossmember. The 2pc will be less prone to failure.

Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

Well some time has passed since I posted this and I just ended up having a drive shaft made and made a crossmember to work with it. I don't put a lot of miles on it but the miles I do put on are rough. The truck makes a little over 600hp now and gets driven like a race car every time it's out. Haven't had any driveshaft problems yet.
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Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

Is your new one steel or aluminum and whats the diameter ,,wanting to do the same,,thanks

Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

I have a short bed.
The shop said the one piece will hit the cross member as the suspension moves
I just don't know what to do
I prefer the 1 piece since it's simiple

The new shaft is steel and 3" in diameter. Truck is lowered 5.5" in front and either 7" or 8" in the rear. But your shop isn't wrong. The factory crossmember won't let you swap to a 1 piece. You will need to get another crossmember or make one that has a little more room for the driveshaft to move. I basically made one very similar to the porter built crossmember.
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Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

found this today at the wrecking yard looks like a factory one piece out of a long bed gmc about 70 inches

Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

A single driveshaft on a short bed is a different situation. However for you guys that go so low with your trucks, modification of the trailing arm crossmember is unavoidable with the diameter of the driveshaft needed with a single driveshaft. I don't consider a 2pc driveshaft to be 'complicated' at all.

Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

Can you suggest the steps I need to do for the 2 piece?
Never had one before
Thanks

Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

Can you suggest the steps I need to do for the 2 piece?
Never had one before
Thanks

Re: Driveshaft/crossmember question
 

To start with you will want a driveshaft and the carrier bearing for the HD version, not the light duty one where the carrier bearing hangs from the top of the crossmember. If you do not have a HD carrier bearing bracket on your trailing arm crossmember, I do make those. You can use one from a '63-'72 longbed or a shortbed. It doesn't matter since you are going to shorten it anyway. You will just need to shorten the front shaft. Here is the link to the HD carrier bearing mount that I make and also a couple pics of the HD driveshaft and carrier bearing.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=620312