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-   -   2000 K3500 Dually ball joints (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=750789)

richard2717 11-18-2017 06:15 PM

2000 K3500 Dually ball joints
 
My work horse is in need of some front end love and I have never messed with the 4x4 torsion bar systems. I want to replace the lower ball joints as well as the upper control arms since I can get them complete with new ball joints and bushings. I have not had any luck finding any video with dually repairs but i did find one with a single wheel repair. AM i to understand correctly that as long as I keep a jack under the lower control arm I can remove the ball joints and everything without having to mess with the torsion bar setup? The only other ball joints i have done were on 2wds and removing the coils to replace it all.

WHile I have it apart I will most likely replace the tie rods as well. Anything else I should check or replace?

Thanks
Richard

richard2717 11-18-2017 07:14 PM

Re: 2000 K3500 Dually ball joints
 
I also replaced all of the brakes including the brake lines because they were getting real rusty. I got fluid back to the fronts but can't seem to get fluid back to the rear. My vacuum pump that i normally bleed with has no affect on either wheel. I left the bleeders open on the front for several hours and finally got fluid going again but no such luck on the rear so far. I am going to research now to see if there is something needing to be done with the anti lock to get fluid back.

richard2717 11-18-2017 07:42 PM

Re: 2000 K3500 Dually ball joints
 
Guess I did not wait long enough for the gravity feed. Went out a few minutes ago and have fluid at the rear finally.

I do still need help with the 1st question if someone knows.

thanks
Richard

richard2717 11-20-2017 11:02 AM

Re: 2000 K3500 Dually ball joints
 
Even after the gravity feed bleed I did not have any pedal to speak of. I tried vacuum bleeding again to find out all it was doing was pulling the fluid from the new lines . I started researching the ABS module and found out that there is a bleeder button on the bottom side you are supposed to be able to push in a 1/4" but I could not get it to move. I had also saw some info in regards to checking for ABS codes with a scanner. I broke out the old Snap On scanner I have and got it all set up to read the codes. It kept coming up with a code error and would not show any codes. I scrolled around some trying to see if I could go about it a different way and actually came across a function on it to do a self bleed on the ABS. I figured I had nothing to lose so I went thru the procedure and all i can say is WOW. I got brake pedal again. I re-bled all the brakes again after that and pedal seems as good as it was before all this happened.

On another note I also finally found more info regarding the ball joints and from everything I have read, I do not have to mess with the torsion system as long as I have the lower control arm supported from below. Right while I am under the truck I am going to replace everything except for the steering box and possibly the pitman arm. There was no play in any of it but other than those two items it is all really rusty. I can get all the parts for a little over $500 so I think it to be a wise investment. THen all I will need hopefully is an alignment.

Richard


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