Re: tjs 72 Blazer Build
Nice progress - looking great!
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Re: tjs 72 Blazer Build
Strong work Jeff...very tidy.
...but I'm beginning to feel like we need to start an InLine Tube support group. |
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Hey Jeff !
I just read through your engine build thread and your engine is similar to mine. 383, 89 roller block, cam is similar for low end torque, but I used worked over GM cast iron vortec heads. As I was reading through the build I was on the edge of my seat until you finally showed a picture that had the block casting numbers ( 638 ). I say this because the next engine block after this casting was 880. It was use for the same applications, but the cylinder bores were about 3/8 of an inch shorter and are not good for a long stroked 383. The pistons come out of the bottom of the bores too much and cause a nasty rattle. Glad you used the 638 block !!! Gary |
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Cheers. |
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I almost found out the hard way.The first block I was going to use was a 638 but the engine shop found a crack in it. So they were going to sell me an 880 block. So I did some research and found a thread on the internet about these 2 blocks and using them for 383 strokers. That's where I got my info, so I checked with the engine builder and he had another 638. I believe it also has something to do with what length rode you use.
Gary |
Re: tjs 72 Blazer Build
Looking good. I like the level of detail and will keep watching for updates. Subscribed
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Hey TJ, hope you get this I was checking out pic #97-98 and seen you are using the ORD style shackles, what bushings or spacers are you using between the leaf and the shackle?
Thanks |
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Finally a few hours this week to work on the Blazer.
Had to machine the tranny mounts to clearance by the back end of the 5th gear tailstock on the NV4500 transmission. |
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Got the NP205 rehung and sealed up to the 5 spd transmission. That is some heavy metal !! I used a floor jack with a piece of plywood on it to take the weight and then a buddy and I just rotated it in to place.
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I have to fab up a new stand to go between the tranny and the mounts. The original one made was too tall. Right now I just have a floor jack under it to take the bulk of the weight till I get one in there. Just going to come up with some quick temp thing for now. I'll make something more professional / oe looking in the long run.
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I put a tape measure on the output yoke on the back of the transfer case and measured for center between the frame rails. Right now it is sitting 1/2" towards the left. Seems difficult to correct though as that side mount on the transfer case pretty much dictates where it sits left to right. I might be able to get a little wiggle in it but not 1/2".
How big of a deal is the 1/2" offset. I'm sure they weren't perfect from the factory but I never checked any of this stuff before I pulled it apart. No idea if the differential yoke is perfectly centered but I'm sure they aren't. |
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Picture from the other side showing where I need to fab a stand between the tranny and mount pad.
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I'm running the same transmission and transfer case setup you are. About to get mine on the road finally!
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Any updates?
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Problem is it is Winter time up here and Canada which means they are in to a lot of Insurance work. I'm not paying nearly that labour rate so I have to wait ... I have taken some pictures. I'll get them downsized and posted over the next week. Once I get the tub back on I can get back in to the more interesting reassembly story. |
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Did you ever get that T-Case bushing mounts figured out? I'll be loosing mine this Friday to remove the Transmission so I can put in a new torque converter. I can check which way they go and let you know. |
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Cheers. |
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Good to hear. Out of curiosity.. which way did you put the bushings in?
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So as solid as this truck was it had lots of piercings. I can't believe how many screw holes had to be welded up.
On top of that there was a small patch required on the front passenger floor which I think was probably the result of a leaky roof over the years. Also the second owner was kind enough to beat the crap out of the firewall to clearance it for an engine removal and reinstall. It was stretched all out so replaced that also. A couple of pics of the rough metal work. |
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